Will this work for 2 15" Fi BTL's ?

[shizzzon 461]

hey, sorry i havent been able to help u anymore yet.

I've been gettin swarmed with pms about people helpin them so i'll try and get back to ya today after i reread everything i told u so i know where i left off.

[latorgator 0]

No problem man.. Im in no big rush, I really appreciate everything though.. Also just out of curiousity you know bout how long it take.. just tryn to get everything together

[shizzzon 461]

in terms of me being done?

All i gotta do is give u the specs for the port and sub drill out locations.

this week for sure as long as people quit askin me everything, lol

[shizzzon 461]

ok, here is some info-

Remember, the box is gonna be 52.5" wide x 19.75" deep x 18" tall. These are the external dimensions.

When you put this box in your car, slide this box all the way over to the driver side of the car, firing forward and as for forward towards the cabin area as possible until the box hits the wheel well contours.

REMEMBER - make sure these dimensions can fit when dropping this into your trunk before building it.

Volume information-

8.52 cubes GROSS

sub displacement - 0.42 cubes

8.1 cubes GROSS remaining

Bracing displacement - (when using all 6 2" dowel runs shown in pic) 0.225 cubes

7.85 cubes GROSS remaining.

Port information-

16.5" high x 6" wide. Port wall will run and STOP 6" from the back wall. This means the port wall will be 11.5" long.

Because there will now be a 6" wide entrance into the port, this greatly extends acoustical port length and port displacement since the port area is kept the same throughout the port.

Port displacement - 1.128 cubes

6.7 cubes GROSS

When port is in this state, without the adapter which i'll get to in a moment, tuning should be - 37Hz

This will offer a blend of VERY LouD well-rounded bass with, of course, a small drop in the lows but should still pick them up audibly enough to not complain.

Now, for the adapter- You get to choose your own length and i'll tell you how long is has to be for a given tuning.

Remember, because your trunk angles up going into the cabin, if u wish to use this adapter for low tuned daily driving, you MUST keep the port area 16.5" x 6" the entire time.

Here is a generic pic of what the box looks like WITHOUT the adapter-

Now, this image is NOT 100% drawn to scale and i'll explain real quick so you can understand.

You see here that i have the double baffle drawn on this pic but the front of the baffle doesn't go over the port section....

This is so you can take a port, create a base so it fits over the port to make the baffle flush, then the port will extend out of the box to give you lower desired tuning.

The pic only shows 6.75" of width of the baffle missing which to secure a port adapter onto, the missing baffle section needs to be around 7.5" wide so you can attach the right hand side of the port to the internal port wall and some some surface area to prevent air leaks.

The left hand side of the port adapter will not have surface area except 0.75", the thickness of the wood that meets with the outside wall of the box. To prevent air leaks in this area, you can use tape when you secure the port adapter or some sort of removable material like speaker foam tape.

Here is a rough pic of what a port adapter may look like once attached to the box-

You can see how the adapter is completely external and fits perfectly.

In real life, the right hand side of the port looking at the box from the front will have a little more baffle missing before you would put the port in so u can make a small amount of surface area on that side for the port adapter to mount onto!

Now also on that pic, you would want to secure the port adapter on the side wall of the box as well to keep it strong and stiff.

Remember, to seal the port up on the inside with removable, thin material to prevent air leaks and secure it to the box on the outside.

Now onto port adapter lengths for tuning frequencies-

NOTE - because adding a port adapter will make the front baffle flush with the port adapter base that will partially extend to the right of the port area to secure it to the box on that side, the port base alone makes it flush with the baffle whcih is 0.75" thick so that alone accounts for 0.75" of length.

Remember, if i say port adapter needs to be 8" for a given tuning... that's an 8" port adapter if holding the adapter in your hand, you can measure the port as being 8" long, so simple.

Port adapter lengths for given tunings-

35 Hz = 3.5"

33 Hz = 7.5"

32 Hz = 9.75"

31 Hz = 12.25"

30 Hz = 15"

Now, onto an important note before i give you the last thing you need to know-

When bracing, make sure you use exactly the right amount of dowels. also, if you plan on rounding the corners in the box... doing so will decrease internal volume which will increase tuning the more the volume decreases. Typically, if you displace an extra 0.2-0.5 cubes, tuning will go up 2-3hz.

OK, last part, subwoofer drilling locations-

Lucky for you, i don't have to be super perfect on the location because it's not that mandatory!

Just remember this- when looking at the front of the box, you MUST leave 8" of space on the right bare as this will be where the wheel well contour is.

On the left of the box, you will have the port opening which measuring from the left wall, to the other side of the port wall equals 7.5". Add another 1" or so for that small section that will be for the port adapter base to secure to so let's say 8.5"

So, 8.5" from the left and 8" from the right, that's about 17" knocked off of baffle room you need not use for subwoofer mounting. That leaves you with about 35.5" of width left. The subs are just a hair under 15.75" wide = around 31.25" wide total for both of them, leaving you with about 4.25" of "play room" to mount them on the baffle.

That is why i don't need to tell you where exactly to mount them.

I hope this answers your box building calculations!

When you got it all imstalled, turn it on so i can hear it from here,

[latorgator 0]

Thanks a million man I got some days off comin so Ill start on this build

[basslover 1]

Thanks a million man I got some days off comin so Ill start on this build

dude go to pwk designs he will desgin a box that with make you a box that will make it sound reallly loud the site is pwkdesigns.com

[latorgator 0]

whats wrong with this design

[Duran 387]

whats wrong with this design

I think he's just advertising.

[shizzzon 461]

yea, i was gonna say, the site he posted is good if you got plenty of room to build a box that takes up more than the norm space...

You have just enough space for this build.

I dedicated a massive load of port area to this design so you can get lot's of potential on the mic if u ever wanted to get metered although there's more to it than that....

more port area = more spl FYI.

[latorgator 0]

I love the design I have, I broke my tailbone last night (fell skateboarding), So I just waitin to get better to start build. What due you think the best tuning for daily would be shizzon

[shizzzon 461]

actually, tuning is somewhat driver dependent!

i can't say specifically what i'd recommend for you because the design i made for you allows you to adapt multiple possible tuning levels.

I know Fi always recommends 32hz...

It depends really.

what i'd do is just build the box without a port adapter. If you want more lows, start building different port adapters to obtain a nice crazy rumble.

the box without a port adapter installed will give a well rounded sound of audible lows and head-hurting upper notes (40s-50s)

[latorgator 0]

Ill have to give it some good trial and error and se what works best

[skullylover 0]

copy the IMG code and paste directly into your typing area. Do not use the insert image button, just copy the IMG code instead and paste here.

Good Morning, I just came across one of your posts and your info regarding enclosure builds. I just ordered 1 12' BTL and I'm looking to install into a 2009 Dodge Challenger. I'm not looking for anything crazy, just a solid design that will fit in the trunk and is tuned to suggested frequencies.

I don't know if it matters, but the model I am purchasing does not come with the 8 inch sub installed in the rear deck, so there is an opening from the trunk to the deck, perhaps the port can be directed there, with the subs facing the rear. I'm not sure this is possible, but any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks again.