Will this work for 2 15" Fi BTL's ?

[latorgator 0]

I just double checked in the garage i currently have 4 stinger sp1000, I will be buying another for the starting battery also so no need for isolators.

[shizzzon 461]

actually they are solenoids; isolators will cause a voltage drop.ok, i'll get the dimensions and specs of the batts later today and see if i'm ready to go.

[shizzzon 461]

Hey man, they are only 44aH. I would recommend using 6 of these just for those 2 4000w Rockfords you have and a 7th one for your starting battery.

If you still insist on running only 5 of them, let me know.

Let me know for sure somethin so i can start it.

[latorgator 0]

Hey man, they are only 44aH. I would recommend using 6 of these just for those 2 4000w Rockfords you have and a 7th one for your starting battery.

If you still insist on running only 5 of them, let me know.

Let me know for sure somethin so i can start it.

I will make sure I have a total of 7 of them i will order them tonite....

[shizzzon 461]

hehe, i wish all members were like you. Just straight forward, know what's goin on and just do it... Saves both of us time.

OK, the design will start sometime this week. I'll try and have a good show of it to ya with specs by this weekend.

Oh, also buy some earplugs too, hehe.

It's definitely gonna be crazy loud, just don't run it like that all the time without turnin it down or u will kill the BTLs but runnin this much power is also a physical limitation of being able to handle that power before your ears pop.

[latorgator 0]

I like my ears poppin I always liked loud stereos so I though I would man up and build a big one.. Just think after they come out with the 22 inch btl's I mite have to due my cargo van , I really appreciate everything man.. You helpin alot, I can build anything with plans but I hate designing stuff. But again thank you man.. If you ever need the hook on any auto parts I can usually beat evryones price and I a super cheap shipper

[shizzzon 461]

i wish i could see what they had to offer because most auto parts i buy are direct through the company who makes them except for like brakes which can only be found online from what i've seen so far or at least based where i live.

[latorgator 0]

sturdevants.com than go to product lines and links and you see basically everything they carry but I can usually order anything from any company through them and get a good deal.. Can I ask what kind car and where you from..

[shizzzon 461]

Louisville, KY 2007 Scion tC

[shizzzon 461]

ok, let me know if u like the sound of this-

Oh and before i go any further, what is the internal width between the wheel wells in your trunk? I want to partially extend the port out of the box so i need to make sure it can instead of hitting the wheel well.

Now onto the design idea-

From viewing your trunk from the back as like you took the pictures-

Box -

52.5" wide laid down as far to the left as possible

18" tall

19.75" deep

The remaining 7.5" of space to the right of the box will hold 3 of 6 SP1000s.

The remaining 8.25" of depth behind the box will hold 2 RF 4000.1BDs mounted as the width of the amp being vertical one amp behind another.

Amp closest to the trunk latch would have 1" clearance. Amp 2 that is behind amp 1 will have 2" separation for heat dissipation.

Recap-

Each amp is 2.6" tall so 5.25" tall combined + 1" clearance between amp1 and trunk = 6.25" and 2" gap between each amp = 8.25".

Now, you will mount these amps to the far left of the box.

These amps are 33" long so you will have almost 30" left. the remaining space you have left back there will be for the other 3 SP1000s to mount.

So, the batteries will be installed in a 90 degree run- 3 in the back and 3 on the right.

The batts are literally RIGHT THERE next to the amps so you should have great voltage at the amp;

Now, again, i need width in between both wheel wells AND the width of the RIGHT wheel well. Measure from the far right of the trunk to where i can run straight up through the opening into the cabin area like you wanted to at first.

I need to make sure of this because your port will be on the passenger side firing forward. It is a slot port so it will extend up some to save on internal space and i dont want it hitting the wheel well.

If u agree to this design and the 2 measurements i need, i'll draw it out for ya.

[latorgator 0]

45 inches between wheel well and I would say right wheel well is 8 wide..

Also I love how you decided the set up I think that will work great

[shizzzon 461]

awesome, those were the specs i needed.

Ok, after i design everything and get to the port, i'll let you know how far you have to extend it out of the trunk. You can tell by lookin in your car how to do that. I'll try to keep the external port shorter than 12" if possible. Time to get calculatin.

This may take a couple days.

[latorgator 0]

awesome, those were the specs i needed.

Ok, after i design everything and get to the port, i'll let you know how far you have to extend it out of the trunk. You can tell by lookin in your car how to do that. I'll try to keep the external port shorter than 12" if possible. Time to get calculatin.

This may take a couple days.

cool cool cool

[shizzzon 461]

ok, it looks like tuning to 32hz, keeping everything flat that after bracing, you are gonna have approx 6.4 cubes NET.

If you wish to have more, i will use the original picture that you posted at the beginning to increase some more volume but i think the volume is fine...

Running over 4,000w to each sub is probably gonna require each sub to reside in airspace on the low end of FI's recommendation to prevent over-excursion.

So, i'm gonna keep buildin this design now.

Port will need to be extended out of the box as follows-

INTERNAL PORT AREA-

16.5" high x 6" wide.

Port length - 8.5" - 9.0" long depending on your preference.

Port displacement - 1.12 cubes

sub displacement - 0.42 cubes

Bracing displacement - unknown right now but will be figured using 2" wooden dowels.

GROSS size before displacement- 8.43 cubes

Double baffle will be used in this design.

[latorgator 0]

wonderful.. I like how it sounds.. Also due you think I have "to much amp" some one was telling me to get dual 1 ohm and put 1 of my amps on both.. I have no problem ordering a new set of btls, and just keep these for my other ride.. just want your honest opinion on it

[shizzzon 461]

if i were you, i dont care.

If the BTLs can handle a true 2000w, then it should be fine.

It won't handle it for an entire song at that level but neither will your ears probably either.

I like runnin 2-3x rated power on a sub and as long as u know how to set gains clip-free then there's nothing wrong about it.

Here is a pic of the design.

This is using 2" thick wooden dowels-

You will need to extend the port out another 8.5-9.0" but this is what it would look like beforehand-

Also, it WILL be double baffle, i just didnt draw that in the pic

[latorgator 0]

Damn sexy I cant wait to get the finished plan I bought about 50 foot of 2" dowels today. have about 5 and half sheets of 3/4 mdf and also alot of fiber glass resin and wood glue.

[shizzzon 461]

well, sounds like u like it, so i shall finish it with specs by the end of the week.

I'm not gonna give u specs as to where to put the dowels, lol, that's pretty easy. Look at the pic just so u dont forget to brace any sides and make sure you don't run the WIDE one from side to side to close to the front so u let the subs fit in the box, hehe.

The subs will need to be positioned pretty much like that because you want at least 8" of free space on the right of that box as that's where your other wheel well will be sitting.

U gonna need me to come over and help lift this box in ur car?

It's gonna be heavy.

Also, it's interesting to note that if u adapt the external port as an "optional add-on" by building the internal port to the box then just attaching the external port whenever...DETACHIHG the external port will tune the port to around 40hz so it would be a better tune if u ever wanted to really lighten it up or for comp use. Of course you'd lose some lows so might not be your taste for everyday listenin but if u make that external extension adaptive, then your design would be that much more flexible.

Easy way to do this is when making the double baffle, the outer shell baffle should leave about 1-1.5" space around the port on the left and right(0.75" on the left, 1-1.5" on the right.)

Then take your adaptive port and secure it FLUSH to the reserved area to make it look almost seamless. you can use speaker foam tape or something similar to run all along the gaps to prevent air leaks when it's secured.

Attach the port with brackets on the left side of the box and however you want on the right hand side.

If you did decide to do this, try not to actually screw the adaptive port into place if you plan on removing it alot as it will eventually split the MDF and weaken every time it's removed. Secure it with brackets holding it in place instead.

[latorgator 0]

well, sounds like u like it, so i shall finish it with specs by the end of the week.

I'm not gonna give u specs as to where to put the dowels, lol, that's pretty easy. Look at the pic just so u dont forget to brace any sides and make sure you don't run the WIDE one from side to side to close to the front so u let the subs fit in the box, hehe.

The subs will need to be positioned pretty much like that because you want at least 8" of free space on the right of that box as that's where your other wheel well will be sitting.

U gonna need me to come over and help lift this box in ur car?

It's gonna be heavy.

Also, it's interesting to note that if u adapt the external port as an "optional add-on" by building the internal port to the box then just attaching the external port whenever...DETACHIHG the external port will tune the port to around 40hz so it would be a better tune if u ever wanted to really lighten it up or for comp use. Of course you'd lose some lows so might not be your taste for everyday listenin but if u make that external extension adaptive, then your design would be that much more flexible.

Easy way to do this is when making the double baffle, the outer shell baffle should leave about 1-1.5" space around the port on the left and right(0.75" on the left, 1-1.5" on the right.)

Then take your adaptive port and secure it FLUSH to the reserved area to make it look almost seamless. you can use speaker foam tape or something similar to run all along the gaps to prevent air leaks when it's secured.

Attach the port with brackets on the left side of the box and however you want on the right hand side.

If you did decide to do this, try not to actually screw the adaptive port into place if you plan on removing it alot as it will eventually split the MDF and weaken every time it's removed. Secure it with brackets holding it in place instead.

I got lost somewhere in here with how to make port removeable without screwing it in.. I sorry manbut could you possibly send a pick of one if you have a chance...

[shizzzon 461]

i'll draw that too sometime this week.

[latorgator 0]

Thanks I just feel real stupid all of a sudden

[latorgator 0]

Hey I have a question.. Where should I mount my fuses for my amps. I know they usually go under the hood but I wasnt sure if they should go after my extra batteries.. Thanks in advance

[shizzzon 461]

follow me here-

the power line that goes from starting battery to rear battery bank-

when the power line first starts leaving the starting battery, there needs to be a fuse within 18" of the starting battery.

Now, we make our way to the battery bank. Within 18" of reaching the battery bank, there will be another fuse there.

Now, for each amp, there must be a fuse within 18" of the BATTERY that it is connected to also.

If you are using multiple power lines from starting battery to battery bank, you will just take the fuse rating and divide it by the number of runs you are using.

[latorgator 0]

follow me here-

the power line that goes from starting battery to rear battery bank-

when the power line first starts leaving the starting battery, there needs to be a fuse within 18" of the starting battery.

Now, we make our way to the battery bank. Within 18" of reaching the battery bank, there will be another fuse there.

Now, for each amp, there must be a fuse within 18" of the BATTERY that it is connected to also.

If you are using multiple power lines from starting battery to battery bank, you will just take the fuse rating and divide it by the number of runs you are using.

So after main battery, before and after battery bank in trunk... and they should all be the same amp amount

[shizzzon 461]

the fuses used before the amp should be the amp's rated fuse or the fuse recommendation in the manual.

The fuses used that separate the front from the rear should be used to protect the wire.

So - single 1/0 would use 250-300A per run and that is at each end.