Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
DjFreddyFred

should I get a volt meter?

Recommended Posts

got a stock alt still, it's a 92' camry wagon (dont know what the amps are with that) and (2) 3500d's and (2) 3100's....should I get a volt meter just to be on the safe side....Im not sure how long I should play the system with just a stock alt?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got a stock alt still, it's a 92' camry wagon (dont know what the amps are with that) and (2) 3500d's and (2) 3100's....should I get a volt meter just to be on the safe side....Im not sure how long I should play the system with just a stock alt?

a voltmeter will always help you out, it never hurts to know your voltage unless your gonna get out your car and go test your batteries and amps every few minutes. a very small and safe investment.

have you looked into h/o alternator for your car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im upgrading all my electrical with 0 guage wire....just not the alt right now...couple more weeks for that................ so no...definately not stock electrical...that would be just stupidly dumb.........not worried about electical upgrades that will be taken care of on thursday...already have the big 3 done, just dont have the h/o right now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jay for the assurance

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got a stock alt still, it's a 92' camry wagon (dont know what the amps are with that) and (2) 3500d's and (2) 3100's....should I get a volt meter just to be on the safe side....Im not sure how long I should play the system with just a stock alt?

I do hope you know 2 3500d they can draw 600 amps. I would put 2 PowerMaster D3100 on each amp and get the biggest alternator you can fit you can't make the power if you don't have the power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im upgrading all my electrical with 0 guage wire....just not the alt right now...couple more weeks for that................ so no...definately not stock electrical...that would be just stupidly dumb.........not worried about electical upgrades that will be taken care of on thursday...already have the big 3 done, just dont have the h/o right now

how much runs u doin?

and with that much power, i wouldve worried about the electrical first!

i wouldnt even install the second amp until you get the ho alt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An Alternator and such is very important.

However, I run the 149.9 Bass Race class in a CRX with stock alternator. I do have 3 Kinetik 2400's, but still stock alt. I just have not upgraded yet.

But, to your original question, yes get a voltmeter. I use Stinger. Have one mounted right up front where I can watch it at all times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many runs?? what do you mean? all im missing right now is the h/o alt.....couple weeks for that...no sweat.....my installer is a 4x national spl champion..... hehe he knows what he's doin.... now he just owns his own store..no more comps.........here is his store:

http://www.trexcaraudio.com/about-trex-car-audio-ct.html

Edited by MiamiStyle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when he asks how many runs he is asking how many runs of 0/1 (or bigger) wire do you have RUNNING from the front to the back.

say i have a 12ft run of positive and a 12ft run of negative wire from the front of my car to the rear! i will have 2 runs total, 2 runs of 0/1 guage wire from front to back!!

also nice setup man it should pound loudly lol!! and YES get a volt meter lol unless you are damn good at guessing your voltage from the rear batteries! lol! and more batteries like 4 would help you out greatly!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

cool thanks Ken, then yes I have o guage running pos and neg from the front to back......just need an alt and a couple more batteries...2 d3100's for now..... maybe i wont strap the amps for now, just to save on power

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

in my testing 3 D3100's per 3500 with a HO alt when the amp is @ 1 ohm and in all tech. you should have 1 pos and neg per batt and have buss bars on the batts with no less than .25 thick your electrical will make the amps work to there full potential.

yes you should have a volt meter up front and you should not let it get below 11.0 V its very hard on equipment when it gets much below that. it sounds like you are on the right track though cant wait to see what else you have to come.

post up pics when you get it done and lets see some #s

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks, definately....and will post pics tomorrow......might just run 1 3500d to each 18, 1750 watts 2 ohm mono for now till i get the alt and some more batteries

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks, definately....and will post pics tomorrow......might just run 1 3500d to each 18, 1750 watts 2 ohm mono for now till i get the alt and some more batteries

that a boy! play it safe!! hell at 2ohm those sub will still hit hard!! it isn't liek you aren't going to have no subs lol!! maybe it would be louder to just hook up one sub at 1ohm rather then both of them?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks, definately....and will post pics tomorrow......might just run 1 3500d to each 18, 1750 watts 2 ohm mono for now till i get the alt and some more batteries

That wont work since you said in your other post that you bought dual 2 ohm subwoofers so you will have them wired in parellel @ 1ohm on each amplifier or in series @ 4 ohms on each amplifier. Just wire one in series to 4 ohms on one amp and the same for the other sub and amp. This will help your electrical out and when you get your alternator all you have to do is hook up the rca to strap the amps and your good to go, no taking subs out and rewiring them or anything.

Edited by jay-cee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×