which 18" subs would you choose?

[Lucky 76 5]

i plan on building a wall of 4 18" subs powered by the new saz-4500 when it comes out at .5 ohm ... i have around 32 cu ft of volume to use up if i want ... i do not know which subs to get ... i am going to be using these for daily listening and i like punchiness and my lows ... i am trying to maintain sound quality while also staying loud .... which 18" sub would you choose? ... i am open to all options and opinions

[KU40 173]

I would choose subs that would give the amp the 1 ohm load it likes. Putting it at .5 for daily just lowers the life expectancy.

Four 18s is going to be loud no matter what subs you choose. So may as well start with more non-SPL oriented drivers. What is your budget?

[Lucky 76 5]

I would choose subs that would give the amp the 1 ohm load it likes. Putting it at .5 for daily just lowers the life expectancy.

Four 18s is going to be loud no matter what subs you choose. So may as well start with more non-SPL oriented drivers. What is your budget?

around $500 a sub no more than that

[KU40 173]

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/18%22-SSA-XCON-D1%7B47%7DD2.html

[Lucky 76 5]

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/18%22-SSA-XCON-D1%7B47%7DD2.html

idk if the xcons are the way i want to go ... how do the dc level 4 xls sound? .... what about the sundown nightshades?

[jcarter1885 995]

your first post said that you want sound quality while staying loud, thats exactly what the Xcons will give you (great sound quality while being able to get loud). Im thinking you just want to be loud ass balls like a bright yellow shirt on a sunny day.

[mikee72 0]

i vote incriminator audio dp 18s

[Lucky 76 5]

your first post said that you want sound quality while staying loud, thats exactly what the Xcons will give you (great sound quality while being able to get loud). Im thinking you just want to be loud ass balls like a bright yellow shirt on a sunny day.

the dc 4xl and nightshades dont sound as good as the xcons? what about some aa or sound splinter? ... would they be a better option ... i dont like the ia dustcaps lol ... i really do not know what to look for ... thats y im asking u guys ... u have more knowledge and exp than i do

[Tirefryr 1,742]

You're buying four 18s. You have no desire for sound quality. Be honest with yourself. You just want to get loud and have it stay clean. Easy to do as long as you stay within the means of any driver you choose and don't stress anything.

[Lucky 76 5]

You're buying four 18s. You have no desire for sound quality. Be honest with yourself. You just want to get loud and have it stay clean. Easy to do as long as you stay within the means of any driver you choose and don't stress anything.

what i mean by sound quality is i want it to hit the notes i throw at it (below 80 hz most likely 60 and under) and be able to keep up with the response of fast music like techno

[Tirefryr 1,742]

You're buying four 18s. You have no desire for sound quality. Be honest with yourself. You just want to get loud and have it stay clean. Easy to do as long as you stay within the means of any driver you choose and don't stress anything.

what i mean by sound quality is i want it to hit the notes i throw at it (below 80 hz most likely 60 and under) and be able to keep up with the response of fast music like techno

Pretty much any driver you buy from a reputable company will be able to do that provided it's applied properly.

[Duran 387]

You're buying four 18s. You have no desire for sound quality. Be honest with yourself. You just want to get loud and have it stay clean. Easy to do as long as you stay within the means of any driver you choose and don't stress anything.

what i mean by sound quality is i want it to hit the notes i throw at it (below 80 hz most likely 60 and under) and be able to keep up with the response of fast music like techno

Pretty much any driver you buy from a reputable company will be able to do that provided it's applied properly.

X2. Any driver you throw in the right enclosure will play everything you want it too, you just have to design it to play what you want.

[shizzzon 461]

From experience with a wall, anything u put in it will sound very accurate, actually much tighter than a typical sealed box sounds.

Strange to hear that? It's actually not strange. The subs have no loading area before the sound reaches your ears so what u hear is the effect of no loading, nothing for the waves to amplify off of, just straight to you.

Now, for the low bass, such as in the low 30s and especially below that, it takes a lot of power, the saz4500 i'm sure is powerful enough, to reproduce the low end with force. It's easier to reproduce the low end when the notes are in a loading area prior to you hearing it. Now since there is no loading area, it takes more power to hear it.

I am noticing that i gotta crank the Head unit up on my install pretty good before the low end comes alive... then when it's really cranked before i start clipping the amps, .... it's dangerous to the car, let's just put it that way. Thummper would know, lol

Since you are not competing, you don't really need to focus on the technical detail of every little thing.

Just get u 4 18s rated at 1000wrms per sub, all Dual 2 ohm or 4 single 4 ohm and be done with it.

I would choose from any one of these-

Fi Q

Fi BL

FI SSDs (fully loaded)

DC Lvl4, XLs are more comp based and not really necessary for you unless u wanna spend the extra money anyway.

AQ HDC3s Copper Coil

Soundsplinter RL-p

RE Audio SX

Treo Engineering SSi

Pierce Audio WMD

Mach5Audio MJ18M (that may be pushin it if u ever try to go balls to the wall with em)

Those are your choices that i can think of for the power you have... good luck.

[Lucky 76 5]

From experience with a wall, anything u put in it will sound very accurate, actually much tighter than a typical sealed box sounds.

Strange to hear that? It's actually not strange. The subs have no loading area before the sound reaches your ears so what u hear is the effect of no loading, nothing for the waves to amplify off of, just straight to you.

Now, for the low bass, such as in the low 30s and especially below that, it takes a lot of power, the saz4500 i'm sure is powerful enough, to reproduce the low end with force. It's easier to reproduce the low end when the notes are in a loading area prior to you hearing it. Now since there is no loading area, it takes more power to hear it.

I am noticing that i gotta crank the Head unit up on my install pretty good before the low end comes alive... then when it's really cranked before i start clipping the amps, .... it's dangerous to the car, let's just put it that way. Thummper would know, lol

Since you are not competing, you don't really need to focus on the technical detail of every little thing.

Just get u 4 18s rated at 1000wrms per sub, all Dual 2 ohm or 4 single 4 ohm and be done with it.

I would choose from any one of these-

Fi Q

Fi BL

FI SSDs (fully loaded)

DC Lvl4, XLs are more comp based and not really necessary for you unless u wanna spend the extra money anyway.

AQ HDC3s Copper Coil

Soundsplinter RL-p

RE Audio SX

Treo Engineering SSi

Pierce Audio WMD

Mach5Audio MJ18M (that may be pushin it if u ever try to go balls to the wall with em)

Those are your choices that i can think of for the power you have... good luck.

i kinda want to leave the option to run a secon saz4500 if it permits ... if the dc level 4 xls are comp oriented does that mean they arent going to sound good with faster music?

[shizzzon 461]

it's not the sub, it's the install design. I can't see any of these subs not "keeping up" with any music out there.

Also, when i say comp oriented, i mean they are more geared for in the lanes for taking abuse and gettin u little bit higher numbers.

If u wanna leave the option of runnin 9000w of power, hehe, u can scratch every single one of those off the list except for the HDC3s.

You would be lookin in another line from all companies.

You would want 2000wrms per sub.

HDC3 Aluminums is what u would want from that list.

IA DPs

FI BTL

RD Audio Elite

Pierce Audio WMD2

Crossfire XS

Sundown Nightshades

SSA XCONs

Treo Engineering SSX

RE Audio MX

Some of these lines may not have 18s, i cant remember, just off top of my head.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Make sure you research each of the companies before you buy. Also, listen to what TireFryr and a few other guys said about your amp load and direction for drivers. Make sure this is really what you want and that you can fit four 18" drivers in a proper enclosure.

[shizzzon 461]

yea man, i'm still waitin on those specs so i can blueprint your ride to see if 4 18s in a wall can work for you.

most 18s want around 6 cubes optimal so let's say 24 + about 4 cubes displacement for port and sub displacement ~ 0.25 per, you are averaging around 29 cubes GROSS internal

But enough speculating, u get me the specs and i'll find out for sure.

[Duran 387]

it's not the sub, it's the install design. I can't see any of these subs not "keeping up" with any music out there.

Also, when i say comp oriented, i mean they are more geared for in the lanes for taking abuse and gettin u little bit higher numbers.

If u wanna leave the option of runnin 9000w of power, hehe, u can scratch every single one of those off the list except for the HDC3s.

You would be lookin in another line from all companies.

You would want 2000wrms per sub.

HDC3 Aluminums is what u would want from that list.

IA DPs

FI BTL

RD Audio Elite

Pierce Audio WMD2

Crossfire XS

Sundown Nightshades

SSA XCONs

Treo Engineering SSX

RE Audio MX

Some of these lines may not have 18s, i cant remember, just off top of my head.

That's an Fi BL, if you want something to take the power its the XS-SPL Series, which equates to the old BTL...they are even made by Fi.

[shizzzon 461]

oh really, oops, lol

I was rattling off lines off the top of my head, i got the first half right, hehe,

[Lucky 76 5]

i was thinking about the re mx myself ... i was just going to ask what you thought ... they are rated at 1500 rms ... ik re makes good products but can the mx take around 9k daily? also the sundowns r underrated and will prob put out more than that ... shizzon i got the dimensions and i will post them tonight ... its going to be tight and i might have to take out the middle seat for enough cu ft

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Power ratings mean nothing. And why do you guys feel the need to throw so much power at the drivers? It's simply not necessary.

[Solid_State13 1]

Power ratings mean nothing. And why do you guys feel the need to throw so much power at the drivers? It's simply not necessary.

agreed, 4 18's should be more than enough for daily pounding (which is what it seems like you want) on much, much less than 9kW or even 4.5kW. with that much cone area, a few hundred watts would probably be plenty for daily listening, unless you are deaf

[shizzzon 461]

lol, that is true, i'm still laughin, hehe.

I run 7kw because i intend on competing.

I would only assume logically someone willing to up to 9kw only to show off or go to local comps even though it wasn't mentioned... it's probably implied.

To run that much daily would very quickly be seen as too much headroom but i'm sure he already knows that.

and from experience -

If the RE SX can take 3,000w daily for 30-90 sec daily runs then i'm sure the RE MX can take 2250w daily to answer your question.

And from current experience, if u do plan on runnin this for daily that loud, even for spurts all the time, a single 4500d on 4 18s will kill your hearing in about 3-4 months... Kill meaning a significant, noticeable loss.

That's why i dont do it and i'm runnin 4 15s and 7kw.

I heard what it can do and i dont want that for daily, that kind of output power is strictly for the lanes.

[Lucky 76 5]

i do plan on just doing local comps and showing off ... my problem is it seems that whenever i build a box, upgrade my subs, upgrade my amps its never enough for me ... i love the way bass feels ... it brings my music to life with the 2 sets if re xxx 6.5s i have in the front ... idc if my stage is acoustically incorrect ... i probably wont go with another 4500 but just to be on the safe side i might as well get a sub that can take the power