How thick MDF for 18" sub for no box flex

[explosivesound 1]

Im building my sub box but I dont know how thick to make the enclosure. Sub is 18" Atomic APX. Will be 6cubes net @32hz. How thick should the box be. I was thinking 1.50 all around and a 2.25 baffle. But I can go 3" all around if need be. Although it will be awhile before I run the reccommended 5000rms in the meantime Ill be running about 3000rms. I was told by another guy his AP(one step lower than the APX)12 Was still flexing his box with the 1.50. I will not be glassing the inside of the box so should I go 3 all around?

[Duran 387]

1.5" is fine, glassing the box doesn't add much structural support FYI, bracing will be your best friend.

[explosivesound 1]

What is the point of the glass then. Just for that last little bit?

[Duran 387]

What is the point of the glass then. Just for that last little bit?

Putting fiberglass on a flat surface only makes it brittle, the only reason some people glass the inside is for lowering the air resistance, mostly in the port though.

[REVpuggie 23]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

[loondizie52 1]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength

[Duran 387]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength

How on EARTH does that work?

[loondizie52 1]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength

How on EARTH does that work?

idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box...

[Duran 387]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength

How on EARTH does that work?

idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box...

I must apologize, I mis-read and thought you were saying that routing the edges adds structural strength

[loondizie52 1]

for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....

go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength

How on EARTH does that work?

idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box...

I must apologize, I mis-read and thought you were saying that routing the edges adds structural strength

no worries, i was just trying to spread knowledge across the forum