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SexySoundLab

HC3800 vs D3100

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I ordered a 3500D and now looking into purchasing a second battery. I currently have an older group 34 optima yellow top under the hood, 1/0 gauge wire ran to the trunk and the big 3 done. I'll be buying a 200 amp alt soon as well. I'm having a hard time deciding on which battery is the best between the Kinetik HC3800 or the PowerMaster D3100. I'm unable to find the complete stats on both. Some stats I have found, the Kinetik has 135AH and the PowerMaster has 117AH. The Kinetik is rated for a 3800 watt system and the PowerMaster 4000/5000+ watts. I havent been able to find CCA or CA for either although I did find the PowerMaster is rated for 3,200A Max Amps. The Kinetik is more expensive so I'm currently leaning towards the PowerMaster but I really want the best battery available.

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have you looked into batcaps? or even power surge? or those ones called deka? or how about those ones called shuriken?

http://www.shurikenonline.com/

http://www.powersurgebatteries.com/product.html

http://www.batcap.net/

keep in mind the kinetik, shuriken, batcaps, power surge are all rebadged batteries! I am currently using to batcap 2000's in the rear and a stock battery in the front and at full tilt my batteries drop to about 13.4volts ish. And i believe Deka is your best bet b/c they are made in the US. but then again there are plenty of batteries out there to buy!! choose carefully!

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I would go with the Powermaster.

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powermaster good choices plus you can get them from SSA

also there is another guy selling his batteries for 120 plus shipping check it out! and he is on here!! 9a31 dekas

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powermaster good choices plus you can get them from SSA

also there is another guy selling his batteries for 120 plus shipping check it out! and he is on here!! 9a31 dekas

http://www.soundsolu...le/#entry540935

i should go with the powermaster batterys i have three of those and they are awsome

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I have looked into Shuriken batteries I know they are rebranded Kinetiks I would buy one if they had the bigger HC3800 size. I had not heard of PowerSurge, those are some massive batteries for sure I sent them a email for price quote on there 2 biggest models. Batcaps, I've heard alot of negative comments about them in the past so I didn't look into them much and I don't know where to purchase them. I did think about deka and I do think they would be a good choice to have a couple of them intead of just 1 bigger battery however the rules for the class I'll be running in the bass comps in my area require only 2 batteries one up front on one in the back. As of now I'm planing on the PowerMaster unless the PowerSurges are a great deal. Thanks for all the opinions/suggestions.

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Ok so I was thinking about purchasing the 200amp alt before the PowerMaster and hooking up the Optima in the trunk and putting a stock wet cell battery back under the hood. However I've read on a few posts that its best not to mix wet and dry cell batteries. With that said I know of quite a few people who run wet and dry together and never heard of any problems from them. Is it true that wet and dry shouldn't be mixed?

Edited by SexySoundLab

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ya when you mix and match batteries you need to use a solenoid setup. if you need i have a solenoid for sale and also here is how to wire it up!

Untitled-2.jpg

my buddy was running a wet and dry combo and it completely killed his wet battery which was in the front.

See when the car is off the battery which sucks(holds a lower charge) more will continuously draw from the back battery to keep itself full, when the car is on this don't matter but when it is off it does. when the car is on the connection is made when the car is off the connection is broken. the solenoid acts like a circuit breaker i guess. And yes i have also have plenty of friends who don't use a solenoid and so far they are okay so what gives i guess! it is up to you to be safe rather than sorry. also the more runs you have the more solenoids you will need!

that is how i understand a wet and dry combo. I hope i am not completely wrong and if i am sorry, there are more experience ppl on here to explain this!

agian hope this helps!

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As for powersurge batteries if i were you i would jsut call up jim and ask him for a price! it is soo much faster! here is his number!

(352) 400-6677

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nvm here is the pricing for you

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=419412&highlight=power+surge

250 - $119.00

350 - $149.00

500 - $189.00

600 - $229.00

750 - $259.00

1000 - $279.00

1250 - $319.00

1500 - $469.00

2500 - $579.00

3000 - $729.00

keep in mind i don't know if there are the actual prices it is jsut the prices another guy has listed

Edited by CrazyKenKid

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Thanks again for your help. I was looking at Battery Isolators/Solenoids and found that the PAC/Stinger models come in two sizes. The 200 AMP continuous 300 AMP surge and the 500 AMP continuous 700 AMP surge. Since the 3500D is rated for 300 amp and all my fuses will be 300 AMP would I need to get the 500 amp model? I noticed they aren't cheap neither which make me think I should just buy another battery and skip it. CrazyKenKid you said you you had one for sale, what size is it and how much are you asking for it?

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the one i have for sale is a 200 amp relay/ battery isolator! i will sell it for 35$ shipped.

but ya post a link to the 2 singer soleniods. also with a BATTERY ISOLATORS you WILL have a voltage drop of 0.5-1.5volts with a soleniod you will NOT have any voltage drop. so becareful and know what you are getting.

this is a battery isolator which will give you a voltage drop (i think) http://www.stingerelectronics.com/productDetails.aspx?delineate=40&CategoryID=12&ParentID=1

if you are interested in my soleniod send me an e-mail at [email protected] and i will send you some pics and what not! (how much power will you be running)

Kenneth

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Here are links to the PAC models I was looking at...

200 AMP

500 AMP

I guess stinger only makes the 200 AMP model which is here...

200 AMP

I was originally looking for a solenoid but couldn't find one I thought would work so I started looking for high current relays when I found these.

I'm interested, I'll send you an email shortly. I'll be running just the one 3500D @ 1 ohm on a 12v system for now.

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if u have a decent amount of aH in the back to accommodate your amps, the solenoid rating should only be higher than your ALTERNATOR's output.

There would be no reason for a current demand to come from the starting battery when you have batts in the rear. Path of least resistance is used = rear batts.

Alternator sends charging current from up front to the rear.

As long as this current can safely pass over the solenoid, then that's it.

I believe those 500A solenoids which is EXTREMELY overpriced! are worthless.

If u need more than 200A of current pass-through, just buy 2 200A solenoids and parallel them together. Do not wire them in series like Stinger told me to do... idiots.

to wire solenoids in parallel, the master incoming power cable must be ran to BOTH solenoids and the master cable coming off of the solenoids to the batts must come off of BOTH solenoids or they are not paralleled properly.

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DAMN my soleniod is worth that much lol!! ya mine is a PAC-200 and like i said i will sell it to you for 35$ shipped as promised lol!! ya i think i deleted your e-mail to me, send me a p/m here of your e-mail and i will fire off some e-mails and pics to you ASAP!

sorry about that!

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