Help Gaining SPL In My SUV

[Kickin Kia 1]

Hello all.

I have a 2007 Kia Sportage with 2 Nightshade Dual 2 ohm 15's powered by a Sundown SAZ 3000D amplifier. I have the Big3 done and everything is deadened except the roof. That will be done with Damplifier Pro in the near future. I have 2 Optima Yellowtop D-34 Batteries in back for the amp and a smaller yellowtop under the hood. Here is a pic of the setup. I turn my subwoofer box up and get better numbers. My best to date is 149 Sealed on the dash. All I want is one more DB. I would appreciate anybodies input on how to gain 1 more db.

[sundownz 197]

Dampener + bigger batteries will probably get you there

[KU40 173]

What is the box tuned to? If it's tuned for daily driving, increasing the tuning frequency by a couple hertz will probably get you over the hump.

[shizzzon 461]

from experience with a local competing team i know, almost everybody runs SUVs...

From what i gather, vs yours, the entire box design is lacking.

First find your peak note in the vehicle, after that, there is one of 2 box designs that usually yield high numbers.

1 - subs up, port back approx 3" from back door.

2 - subs up built in a tunnel chamber box width-wise with HUMUNGOUS aero port firing to the passenger side.. external port also, not internal.

these guys are doin over 150 with ease so u got plenty of potential.

I would try to ditch your batteries though and go with some XS powermasters or some Batcap 2k or 3ks.

[TeamNemesis-DJ 5]

from experience with a local competing team i know, almost everybody runs SUVs...

From what i gather, vs yours, the entire box design is lacking.

First find your peak note in the vehicle, after that, there is one of 2 box designs that usually yield high numbers.

1 - subs up, port back approx 3" from back door.

2 - subs up built in a tunnel chamber box width-wise with HUMUNGOUS aero port firing to the passenger side.. external port also, not internal.

these guys are doin over 150 with ease so u got plenty of potential.

I would try to ditch your batteries though and go with some XS powermasters or some Batcap 2k or 3ks.

He has tried subs up port back .....the KIA roof is very weak ...He has not tried side firing <i dont think >

[Kickin Kia 1]

What is the box tuned to? If it's tuned for daily driving, increasing the tuning frequency by a couple hertz will probably get you over the hump.

It is tuned at 40 Hz. Truck Peaks at 52Hz

[Kickin Kia 1]

from experience with a local competing team i know, almost everybody runs SUVs...

From what i gather, vs yours, the entire box design is lacking.

First find your peak note in the vehicle, after that, there is one of 2 box designs that usually yield high numbers.

1 - subs up, port back approx 3" from back door.

2 - subs up built in a tunnel chamber box width-wise with HUMUNGOUS aero port firing to the passenger side.. external port also, not internal.

these guys are doin over 150 with ease so u got plenty of potential.

I would try to ditch your batteries though and go with some XS powermasters or some Batcap 2k or 3ks.

The Peak note is 52 Hz. We have done numerous tests and subs back port back yield the best results. We recently flipped the box to where the subs and port face up for S&G's and it was one db louder. Still trying to get that 150 db sealed goal.

[shizzzon 461]

it sounds like u are out of ideas.

It's time to build a new box.

I dont know the specifics for the "tunnel box" but if i talk to one of the guys soon, i'll let u know what they say.

[sadistic 13]

what kind of music do you listen to??? the reason i ask is regular cd's are recorded at -5 or -10 dbs be low zero this is why some recordings seems louder then others. if you can find good audiophile grade recordings with good bass. also could try bass boy , bass mekanic , dj magic mike etc... and look for the better recordings from them the one's i suggest. they are like test tones laid over a beat kinda stupid like techno you may gain a db depending on the recording some are tune to your box complete if you can find a audiophile grade -3 db track if you can! would put you +2 dbs over a regular recording. unless your is set to clip on that minus 5 db cd's some time there is leeway. the cd' i suggested are not audio file not sure3 if i spelled it correctly but the isaca sponsors those bass mekanic cd's those they do allow some that are laid over the beat some comps you can not use test tones as you know. any ways good luck

[shizzzon 461]

if u can use tones i nwhatever comp u enter, go to my own test tone link in my sig and download the square wave tones.

These will give the most potential out of just a track.

All tones i make are generated clip-free, just be careful when using square waves.. they are VERY powerful.

[sadistic 13]

if u can use tones i nwhatever comp u enter, go to my own test tone link in my sig and download the square wave tones.

These will give the most potential out of just a track.

All tones i make are generated clip-free, just be careful when using square waves.. they are VERY powerful.

ditto

[Derrick824 4]

We tested every scenario there is in there and sub back port back was loudest. Sub up port back with his two 15s did not do well at all. Using a single sub setup for testing port back was louder than port to the side. Sub back was louder than sub up. Sub to the passenger side & port back did well but won't work for his setup with two 15s. His current box does better facing up but only when it's about 15" or so away from the hatch. Slide the box back against the hatch (still with subs & port up) and the TL #s drop like a rock.

[Derrick824 4]

Also he uses the official dB Drag disc for tones.

[Gary F. 3]

Check your air vents.

[Kickin Kia 1]

Check your air vents.

I close my air vents which does gain. I also put my sun visors parallel to the windshield and angle my mirror toward the meter. I also put my passenger seatback forward to the dash and open my glove box.

[shizzzon 461]

it's time to start doing hard bracing.

Walk around the vehicle and find anything flexing or leaking air.

Seal everything and prevent anything from flexing.

Did u ever do port testing before u permanently built your box?

I'm about to start doing port testing on mine soon.. it takes about a month or so to test.

resin the inside of the box over and over and over....

The slicker the surface, the faster air can move.

[Derrick824 4]

it's time to start doing hard bracing.

Walk around the vehicle and find anything flexing or leaking air.

Seal everything and prevent anything from flexing.

Did u ever do port testing before u permanently built your box?

I'm about to start doing port testing on mine soon.. it takes about a month or so to test.

resin the inside of the box over and over and over....

The slicker the surface, the faster air can move.

Holding the hatch or doors doesn't do anything. Bracing the roof helps. Not sure what you mean by port testing???

[shizzzon 461]

just because you may know your peak, doesnt mean just build it to peak there...

I'm assuming he did find his peak by using a sealed box and not a ported one so let me begin.

Once you know your peak, you then start building multiple ports with slightly different tuning but totally different port areas and angles.

So, let's say he officially does peak at 52hz without a doubt.

Ports would generally be made to peak around 47-55hz and have different port areas, different firing patterns, different materials(if possible), etc...

For my purpose, i am gonna be competing in SPL, bassrace, driveby and port wars...

I will need a different port design for each division because each division will peak differently. It's gonna take me a long time to test all different ports to properly suffice for each competition.

My wall uses a removable port so it's easy so pop another in without tearin the whole wall down.

I'm currently in the process fo sealing my wall right now. waitin for the 4th can of foam to cure.. got LOTs of cans left before it completely seals.

[sadistic 13]

We tested every scenario there is in there and sub back port back was loudest. Sub up port back with his two 15s did not do well at all. Using a single sub setup for testing port back was louder than port to the side. Sub back was louder than sub up. Sub to the passenger side & port back did well but won't work for his setup with two 15s. His current box does better facing up but only when it's about 15" or so away from the hatch. Slide the box back against the hatch (still with subs & port up) and the TL #s drop like a rock.

is it a t line if so what is the measurement from the wind shield for the 1/4 wave ???? if there are four parts to a quarter wave port one part and the distance from the windshield to the port another part. distance from sub to windshield another part . and the back wave of the sub another part .any ways check out this link if it a T-line the measurement's maybe wrong and may just have to move the box closer to the wind shield to get a good measurement.

http://www.caraudiomag.com/technical/0203cae_audio_speakers_basics/index.html

[Derrick824 4]

Gotcha on the port tuning. Never heard it called that exactly but yeah we've tried different tuning. It always peaks @ 52hz. This also has to be a daily box as he plays music on it daily.

[shizzzon 461]

if the port is not interchangeable then that is a MAJOR reason why he is having a hard time gaining any more DBs.

Again, if it's not swappable, need to do another box design and make it interchangeable.

[sadistic 13]

if the port is not interchangeable then that is a MAJOR reason why he is having a hard time gaining any more DBs.

Again, if it's not swappable, need to do another box design and make it interchangeable.

shizzzon your totally right on the interchangeable ports. every band of hertz travels so far so one that is tune at 52hz may travel x amount of feet or inches this is why i say check the distance. and like shizzzon is saying different port will help you get closer to the goals of length the hertz tone travels this is why i state look at the quarter wave and ports tunes.