another thread about amp fuses

[ross-b 0]

hey

firstly im new here so hello everyone

as the title states i have a problem

firstly my set up

0guage from batt to 80a fuse to 10a fuse to head unit and a 2guage to a distro block powering 3 amps (through 4 guage wire)

1 4 channel and 2 2 channels

then 4 guage to another distro then 2guage to a hole that used to house a clip for the trim in the side of the boot (metal is thin, maybe this is the problem?).

the remote from the HU goes into a 2 channel then piggybacks from there to the other 2 amps.

The problem

i put in 6 new speakers into the car (well 4 and a set of splits)

and my 4 channel to run them (the 2 channels are not connected to the subs right now because the boxes are out being carpeted and ported but the amps still power up)

anyways today i turned the system on to start tuneing.

played some music and slowly increased volume to hear for distortion (amps gains were at 0 no boosting in either head unit or the amp and high passes were set at about 100htz)

i got fairly high (say 80-90% percent, didnt check because i quickly turned down the volume because of what happenend)

everything was working fine, then one of the 15a fuses in the 4 channel blew so i quickly turned down the volume and sound came back on so i started to increase again even slower and it cut out earlyer as t he other 2 15a fuses blew.

i figured i just went too high for the amp so i replaced (had a slight spark as i put in the 1st fuse even though the amp was off due to head unit being off)

and powered up. and the protection was on straight away. checked fuses and theyre all blown.

i decided there must have been a short somewhere so i disconnected the speakers and rcas . disconnected the power from the amp. replaced fuses then reconnected the power ground and remote to the amp.

powred up and still no volume. checked fuses and again they were blown. (this is the most amount of fuses ive blown in my life.

so im pretty stumped now

i thought it might be an impedence issue but wihout the speakers connected then that shouldnt be an issue.

(which brings up a 2nd question

the speakers are as follows

2 6 inch JL audio splits (on the box says 4 ohms so i assume this includes both the tweeter and the woofer) in front doors

2 alpine 2 way type S (4ohms) also in front doors. (these are connected in parallel to the JL crossover. so thats channel 1 from amp into jl crossover then from there to the alpines. the outputs on the xovers go to the appropriate woofer and tweeter)

then the rear speakers are connected directly to the rear channels of the amp

can anyone please help me.

tomorrow ill get a new ground and connect the remote directly to the 4 channel and see what happens but id rather get more info before blowing my last 3 fuses and the risk of more damage to my amp.

[KU40 173]

I don't understand your wiring of front speakers to the amp. Try to use words like components, coaxials, woofer, tweeter, etc. Then walk us through which channels of the amplifier power what and how they are wired. Why do you have the JL crossover wired to alpine coaxials?

[ross-b 0]

sorry what i mean is the alpine coaxials are in parallel to the jl crossover

so channel 1 + to crossover + then to alpine +

and channel 1- to crossover - then to alpine -

and same with the other side

channel 1 power the alpines and the jls in parallel in the left

channel 2 does the same on the right

channel 3 only powers a coaxial speaker in the rear left

channel 4 powers the other rear coaxial

fuses still blow when only remote power and ground are attached.

no visible shorts on the outside

i took the amp out last night and wired it to a jump start in my kitchen and it still does the same thing

when the remote powers it the fuses blow

[ross-b 0]

just really trying to figure out what ive done wrong

would turning the volume up too high (even with gains all the way down) be the reason it happened or was it just because of a grounding problem.

or something else

o want to fix this before i bugger up the replacement amp