Kenwood 1000W class D

[KU40 173]

At first I didn't think I'd like the cover because I thought it would be a pain to have to take on and off if I wanted to adjust something, but now I actually like it because it gives the amp a more complete look and covers up the front-mounted hookups, which I've also grown to like as well. Looks much cleaner than amps with inputs on the ends.

[Estsound 7]

At first I didn't think I'd like the cover because I thought it would be a pain to have to take on and off if I wanted to adjust something, but now I actually like it because it gives the amp a more complete look and covers up the front-mounted hookups, which I've also grown to like as well. Looks much cleaner than amps with inputs on the ends.

It takes less than 30 secs to take it off, it also came with rubber bands so you can cover power connections.

[sadistic 13]

did you just buy that kenwood? if so have you figure out the connection for the speakers yet ? kinda baffled me at first. because it goes in pair of plus and minuses if you read your manual one is marked sub the other is is for two subs of 2 ohms load each can't hook a one ohm load to a plus and a minus pin. btw another good amp on the cheap side is those sony 9001gtr i like the ones with the blue window the best, very powerful for there price. it's also a great deal on those clarion amps i showed earlier i seen those sonny on amazon for $139.99 there is not much else besides those two or three. all the rest are p.o.s. like power acoustic etc...

[Estsound 7]

did you just buy that kenwood? if so have you figure out the connection for the speakers yet ? kinda baffled me at first. because it goes in pair of plus and minuses if you read your manual one is marked sub the other is is for two subs of 2 ohms load each can't hook a one ohm load to a plus and a minus pin. btw another good amp on the cheap side is those sony 9001gtr i like the ones with the blue window the best, very powerful for there price. it's also a great deal on those clarion amps i showed earlier i seen those sonny on amazon for $139.99 there is not much else besides those two or three. all the rest are p.o.s. like power acoustic etc...

Yes i just bought that. there are many options how to hook up subs, but i will probably bridge it.

[emperorjj1 2]

mind you that amp is a mono block and cant be bridged.... what kind of subs do you have and what coils are on them?

[Estsound 7]

mind you that amp is a mono block and cant be bridged.... what kind of subs do you have and what coils are on them?

OOPSS !

But i was looking for a vibe space 12". Or two Alpine SWE-1243E 's

[sadistic 13]

mind you that amp is a mono block and cant be bridged.... what kind of subs do you have and what coils are on them?

ditto the fist plus and fist minus on mine are for subs it was the loudest channel on that amp. same way can't bridge and i think the alpines are 4 ohm so in parallel you will have 2 ohms if you have a problem wiring check out rockfordfosgate.com and find there woofer wiring wizard. any ways good luck....

[sadistic 13]

kenwood sucks all but there in dash i got the excelon x10-d there is no way it is putting out 600 rms at 14.4 there way over rated in power. a little on the cleaner side compare to power acoustik spl and the likes it's putting out closer to 400 rms at 1 and 2 ohm not 600. btw the Memphis is good so is rock ford i see ssa got some zeff made or designed clarions or some thing like it forgot what he said those are low cost and good out put you would be better off with a real true power amp like said. btw not zed audio god i would bend over back words for those.

oh btw- by the way crutchfield has clarion in a 1500 for $300w and a 850w for $200 i know amp good one go buy model numbers the ones and crutchfield may not be zeff made or maybe just filling you in to check in to it.

just found out it is the apx not the dpx that crutchfield carry but still good amps. the apx were zeff made

[Estsound 7]

By the way, is second battery necessary for this amp ? Also when setting gain..

i read the instruction but i still quite not understand, so i take my amplfier RMS power and multiply it by speaker ohms.

My amp puts out 900W @ 2 0hms

So the equation will be sqr(900x2) ?

so my output for speaker should be about 42,4V ?

Edited June 15, 2009 by Sander

[sadistic 13]

not really bats and alts are for huge systems drawling tons of amps.it will help with the light dimming though if you got a alt. if you did not know the cap will pull from you battery when playing music so if your alt is off engine off your hurting your self by using a cap. this is why they suggest bats but still bats will only discharge so far before they need charging again. a cap is worst caps will charge and discharge power constantly. to help out on those notes power is dimming but if your competing and your engine is off you hurting your score. if it for your daily driver to help the dimming a bit maybe a cap will help if it low amp drawl truthfully it not helping because it puts more strain on the system.

[Estsound 7]

not really bats and alts are for huge systems drawling tons of amps.it will help with the light dimming though if you got a alt. if you did not know the cap will pull from you battery when playing music so if your alt is off engine off your hurting your self by using a cap. this is why they suggest bats but still bats will only discharge so far before they need charging again. a cap is worst caps will charge and discharge power constantly. to help out on those notes power is dimming but if your competing and your engine is off you hurting your score. if it for your daily driver to help the dimming a bit maybe a cap will help if it low amp drawl truthfully it not helping because it puts more strain on the system.

Yes i'm getting 1farad cap, because i really don't need more for that amp/system.

[alvitae 0]

EmperorJJ1, What you are saying about being careful hooking up power is good to know with those amps. I got my amp used and the guy had put a wire from the ground to the chassis and told me to always leave it on there. Now I know why.

It must have helped because I swapped that amp out a lot.

[emperorjj1 2]

huh... ya ive never herd of ghetto rigging it like that but i guess that might work. i really dont know when i fucked it up i just took it to my boss and said sorry. he opened it up did his magic and i got it once i finished the rest of the wiring

[Estsound 7]

huh... ya ive never herd of ghetto rigging it like that but i guess that might work. i really dont know when i fucked it up i just took it to my boss and said sorry. he opened it up did his magic and i got it once i finished the rest of the wiring

You seem to be smart guy, can u help me with that amp gain stuff :D

[emperorjj1 2]

ive never actually metered the output of an amp honestly. i just do it by ear

[KU40 173]

EmperorJJ1, What you are saying about being careful hooking up power is good to know with those amps. I got my amp used and the guy had put a wire from the ground to the chassis and told me to always leave it on there. Now I know why.

It must have helped because I swapped that amp out a lot.

That really isn't necessary. Just ground from the amp's ground terminal to the car's chassis. ALL amps spark when you touch a live power wire to the heatsink, because it's metal. Wouldn't be any different than touching the power wire to your car frame. This is why every amplifier manual you'll ever read suggests taking out the inline fuse before attaching the power wire to the amp.

[emperorjj1 2]

right every amp will spark (to charge the caps) but kenwood actually uses the case as a ground so it can stop working if you touch 12v to the case.

main reason i gave the heads up is because he lives out of the country. if your in the US and you want to blow up your kenwood amps that's fine with me but if not it would really suck if you did it on accident and had no efficient way of getting a new one or getting it repaired or anything