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theKeety

New Setup, From Kicker to FI

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Well recently, I have just purchased a 12" CVX that came in a prefab Kicker enclosure. It was powered off a Kicker ZX 750.1(which seems to be the only decent Kicker purchase I made). I assume with the amp being underrated, and therefore overpowering the CVX caused it to blow.

Well now, I'M GOING FI BEEZYS, sorry for the anticipation, but now anyway I would like to power my new setup with the same amp, the Kicker ZX750.1 and replace the sub with a NEW FI SSD 12". Temporarily I will, use the same box.... I know to some extent either the enclosure could make or break the sub hopefully, the prefab kicker box won't make the FI sound like shit. Opinions?

I would also like to know what options to chose for this amp, particularly 1 ohm or 2 ohm?

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Be easy on the gains and volume knob. That is probably why your sub blew.

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did you use any bass boost at all ??

im pretty sure the 12" cvx can handle 1000 rms

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Your amp isn't too powerful for the CVX, you probably just clipped it to death with an improper setting.

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Did you blow it by frying the voice coil or mechanically damaging it? I can't imagine the prefab Kicker box being tuned below 40 hz, which means it would be very easy to bottom out the sub. The SSD isn't likely to fare any better if you don't change something or other.

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What happened was, I was using bass boost set in the middle( because my voltage was dropping at higher volumes, so I used it as temporary solution for some extra bump). Then I got a new yellow top and then forgot to turn the bass boost off and the zx then was working to its full potential and then I forgot I left the bass boost on, it was bound to blow. I'm really not stressing it though, so I would like to get these questions answered.

What option should I chose 1ohm or 2ohm, to get the full output going to the SSD with the zx750.1? Would the FI do better sealed then in a ported enclosure, .... as far as my taste in music, I like to be the guy making shit rattle at red light, so I guess maybe I'm aiming for good output but, I chose the SSD since it was described as being a kind of an all around versatile sub. I didn't have much of a problem with going from JL to Kicker, but the Kickers really have little little sq to them. So hopefully I'll gain something new from FI.

On another note, I set my gains rather low though, and never heard any audible distortion from the cvx, when I examined it.... I really don't know much mechanically about subs right now, but it was visibly detached from something... should I also be worried about my amp being clipped?

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What happened was, I was using bass boost set in the middle( because my voltage was dropping at higher volumes, so I used it as temporary solution for some extra bump). Then I got a new yellow top and then forgot to turn the bass boost off and the zx then was working to its full potential and then I forgot I left the bass boost on, it was bound to blow. I'm really not stressing it though, so I would like to get these questions answered.

What option should I chose 1ohm or 2ohm, to get the full output going to the SSD with the zx750.1? Would the FI do better sealed then in a ported enclosure, .... as far as my taste in music, I like to be the guy making shit rattle at red light, so I guess maybe I'm aiming for good output but, I chose the SSD since it was described as being a kind of an all around versatile sub. I didn't have much of a problem with going from JL to Kicker, but the Kickers really have little little sq to them. So hopefully I'll gain something new from FI.

On another note, I set my gains rather low though, and never heard any audible distortion from the cvx, when I examined it.... I really don't know much mechanically about subs right now, but it was visibly detached from something... should I also be worried about my amp being clipped?

DON'T BE THAT GUY.

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..... What option should I chose 1ohm or 2ohm? I just want to order the damn thing already.

1 ohm dvc

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Alright one mono block, zx 750.1, and one sub, fi ssd. Ok 1 ohm dvc? Ok, so this is what I need to order for the max output and suiting the amp for the sub. I really don't want to waist my time and money and have to return it, thinks. Can I just get a confirmation on this.

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damn son you a trip. talkin about the guy at the red light lol. go ahead and get a sundown 3000 and get two fully loaded bl's....you will then be that guy... :fing34:

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What happened was, I was using bass boost set in the middle( because my voltage was dropping at higher volumes, so I used it as temporary solution for some extra bump). Then I got a new yellow top and then forgot to turn the bass boost off and the zx then was working to its full potential and then I forgot I left the bass boost on, it was bound to blow. I'm really not stressing it though, so I would like to get these questions answered.

What option should I chose 1ohm or 2ohm, to get the full output going to the SSD with the zx750.1? Would the FI do better sealed then in a ported enclosure, .... as far as my taste in music, I like to be the guy making shit rattle at red light, so I guess maybe I'm aiming for good output but, I chose the SSD since it was described as being a kind of an all around versatile sub. I didn't have much of a problem with going from JL to Kicker, but the Kickers really have little little sq to them. So hopefully I'll gain something new from FI.

On another note, I set my gains rather low though, and never heard any audible distortion from the cvx, when I examined it.... I really don't know much mechanically about subs right now, but it was visibly detached from something... should I also be worried about my amp being clipped?

DON'T BE THAT GUY.

lol.

But I want to be.. that guy.

Edited by phi

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If something was detached, you damaged the sub from overexcursion, likely because the tune on that prefab box is too high and a subsonic filter was not used or set properly. Have fun doing the same thing to your SSD if you put it in that box.

Also, boosting the bass boost because your voltage is dropping is about the worst solution I've ever heard of. That's like dumping gasoline on a fire to try and put it out.

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Don't expect the Fi to last any longer. It was YOU who killed the sub, not the fact that it was a Kicker. All you, 1000%.

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first thing id do to that prefab is cut the shit up and get the recommended sealed volume.. till u build a real box

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Unless you figure out how to set your amp or have it set for you, don't buy another sub. I'm not trying to be an ass but you're just gonna keep blowing anything else you buy until you fix that issue first.

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im pretty sure that the amp is only 2 ohms stable so get the d1 and run it series to 2ohms

if you got space wold get a 15 or 18 for more cone area then sell the old kicker box

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"What happened was, I was using bass boost set in the middle( because my voltage was dropping at higher volumes, so I used it as temporary solution for some extra bump). Then I got a new yellow top and then forgot to turn the bass boost off and the zx then was working to its full potential and then I forgot I left the bass boost on, it was bound to blow. I'm really not stressing it though, so I would like to get these questions answered."

I know what I did wrong, bass boost kids,..... really don't fuck it with it. I was skeptical as to how damaging it can be to the sub within a short period of time, once I got the yellow top... the amp was putting out more than ever before. I had it in my head to turn the bass boost off completely but instead forgot too.... one hour after installing the new battery, bass boost on, sub to shit. If I have to make a box I will, I don't think the downfall of the sub was based on the box this time. I'm going to keep my current amp the zx 750.1, DVC 1 or DVC 2? ...... Final answer..... and its not like one 12" makes shit excessively rattle at a red light, I'm just an attention whore yah know, nah just fugging around. You people get so off subject.

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I'm sorry, I have yet to get, only but few answers , and I'm still not sure yet. I'm not worried about the KICKER, fuck it, they're probably not bad. I just blew some cash down the toilet, saw what the CVX had to offered and now I'm trying FI.Now on some other shit.... I always wanted a 15" in my car, now that I'm looking at the SSD, it says you can put it in two cubic feet.... sick. I have a Honda Civic Lx coupe, so not a lot of trunk space and I'm not putting three cubic feet in there, so I might be going with that. I really don't want to upgrade my amp to go to the fifteen.

Do the 12" and 15"... have the same RMS?

ONE AMP..... ZX750.1..........ONE SUB FI SSD....... DVC 1 OR DVC 2? I just want to order a sub.

Edited by theKeety

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The 10-18" have the same power handling.

You'll want the DVC1 option, wire it like this:

1_1ohm_dvc_2ohm.gif

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Really appreciated... I hope you're not lying.

wtf???

you need a d1 to wire to 2.... it's ohm's law.... try looking it up yourself...

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I don't think people use google very much. You should already know that every size of the SSD has the same power rating because it is on their site and you must have looked at the SSD line to want to order it and there are many wiring configuration sites that are easy to use.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woof...mp;woofer_imp=3

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=1&I=42

http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/...=2SVC_4-ohm_4ch

Edited by phi

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So much hostility... calm down. I guess I'll be making my first box, and with my carpentry background, hopefully I'm not left with a piece of shit. If anyone knows of any quality sealed prefabs for the fifteen or any ported prefabs for the twelve that would be nice. I really don't want to spend anymore money then I have been lately, so the cheaper the better.

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