Deadner for doors

[bassahaulic 155]

What is more important to place deadner on?

The outer layer of the door? Or the inner metal where the speaker mounts?

[hiloracerboy84 0]

everywhere. and try to cover all openings in the doors to stiffen them up and decrease cancellation btwn the front and rear waves of the speaker(s)

[bassahaulic 155]

everywhere. and try to cover all openings in the doors to stiffen them up and decrease cancellation btwn the front and rear waves of the speaker(s)

I am putting in on the whole door as is. But which ever people think help the most I would put more on.

I will probably do 2-3 layers on the doors, both inner and outer layers of metal, then 4 layers on the back wall.

[bassahaulic 155]

And also

FatMat vs. Stinger Roadkill Thoughts?

[loondizie52 1]

RAAMmat- stuff works great and is thicker than dynamat extreme. also is butyl based and NOT asphalt based. used 100 plus feet on my ram and have no complaints and is waaaayy cheaper than dynamat extremem or fatmat extreme and i actually like it better than dynamat extreme..just my .02c

[bassahaulic 155]

RAAMmat- stuff works great and is thicker than dynamat extreme. also is butyl based and NOT asphalt based. used 100 plus feet on my ram and have no complaints and is waaaayy cheaper than dynamat extremem or fatmat extreme and i actually like it better than dynamat extreme..just my .02c

What did you pay for all of it?

[loondizie52 1]

like 118 or something like that for 62 sq ft...great deal!!

[Rudeboy 152]

Multiple layers of any product isn't a great strategy - each layer after the first adds very little because it is really deadening the layer underneath it. Definitely seal the access holes. If you are using mounting rings or a baffle, extend it as much as possible to add rigidity to the inner skin. Both skins are equally important. It's a very good idea to slide vinyl tubing over actuator rods and then wrap them with foam. Tape down wires. Put a layer of closed cell foam between the inner skin and the door card to prevent buzzing. Put a layer of mass loaded vinyl or other barrier material over the closed cell foam if yo want to cut down on noise intrusion and to further isolate the fornt and back waves produced by door mounted speakers.

[Notorious97200 339]

Take a look at Secondskinaudio Damplifier or Damplifier pro.

I tried Fatmat before, for my trunk, and ordered Damplifier after : much better!

Secondskinaudio have a subforum here.

Their customer service is really good, and I live far from the USA !!!

[lolitskasey 0]

Take a look at Secondskinaudio Damplifier or Damplifier pro.

I tried Fatmat before, for my trunk, and ordered Damplifier after : much better!

Secondskinaudio have a subforum here.

Their customer service is really good, and I live far from the USA !!!

Agreed.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Check out the info on SoundDeadenerShowdown.com.

[lithium 358]

from personal experience raammat > dynamat extreme. cost wise u get hellz more raammat then dynamat. performance wise id say raammat looked alittle thicker.

[///M5 2,833]

Check out the info on SoundDeadenerShowdown.com.

Indeed. I'd rather buy from Don than Ant anyday of the week.

[Duran 387]

Multiple layers of any product isn't a great strategy - each layer after the first adds very little because it is really deadening the layer underneath it. Definitely seal the access holes. If you are using mounting rings or a baffle, extend it as much as possible to add rigidity to the inner skin. Both skins are equally important. It's a very good idea to slide vinyl tubing over actuator rods and then wrap them with foam. Tape down wires. Put a layer of closed cell foam between the inner skin and the door card to prevent buzzing. Put a layer of mass loaded vinyl or other barrier material over the closed cell foam if yo want to cut down on noise intrusion and to further isolate the fornt and back waves produced by door mounted speakers.

^^ Buy this man's deadener, he knows what he's talking about

[Rudeboy 152]

Thanks guys - really appreciate it.