Why do you all love 10" subs ?

[suprefly 0]

Haha you should go read some more of M5's posts. It's who he is so don't get butthurt.....ignore the insults and listen to everything else....he knows what he's talking about.

There is NO best. Intelligent hobbyists understand this.

The only ignorance here has been exhibited by yourself. In fact, you're bordering on stupidity.

I agree with THAT 100%

I've never seen a thread locked on this site, but i think this would be a good candidate.

I don't think anything else needs to be said, cause it's all been said and then some.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

come on guys..no need to start a chicks with dicks club...just try and get along

Hmmm, futanari....(for the love of god and all that is holy do not Google that, you have been warned)

[KU40 173]

Ok what your opinion of the best subs on the market right now

There is NO best. Intelligent hobbyists understand this.

10" subs give nice tight bass. it is mostly ppl that want SQ that run 10"'s

It is all about space. You ALWAYS need to build an optimal enclosure for what drivers you select and regularly that will be for 10's depending on what space you have.

If anyone says it is about "speed" or what not they are dumb. Nothing at all to do with it, and if they bought for that reason they don't know their head from their ass.

Your the "dumb" one I described above. Tight bass has NOTHING to do with sub size.

So you are saying that you can get the same tight bass out of a 15 that you can out of a 10 I think not.. I know that the box has a lot to do with it..... But if you don't know how to build a box you wont get tight bass.. Dumb ass.

Lets see you get tight bass out of anything else. and in tell you can prove it keep your friggin mouth shut.

If you want to go out of your way to be ignorant I'll play. I can be VARY ignorant. want to see

The only ignorance here has been exhibited by yourself. In fact, you're bordering on stupidity.

Do you know what???? I think that this is a pretty shabby display for most of the Mod's on this on this thread. If you are a Mod you should be leading by example. There should be no Name Calling making fun of or anything to this degree. This all started because M5 (a Mod here) was calling people "STUPID". And other Mod's followed suit. If you ask me Mods should be held at a higher ACCOUNTABLITY then the rest of the people on the Forum. And I don't think that it should be accepted or tolerated.

The problem is your blanket statements. You say that the JBL GTI subs are the "tightest most controlled sub on the market," but have you tested every sub on the market? I'm glad you like them, but that's hard to quantify. How does the GTI 15" sound compared to the GTI 10"? You say 10s are tighter than 15s, period. But I guarantee you that there are some foul sounding 10s out there, regardless of the box they're in. You also aren't taking into consideration that some subwoofer manufacturers don't just slap a bigger cone on the same motor. Some of them engineer every size in the line so that they give similar performance. For instance, it appears JBL does this. Somebody earlier was talking about BL staying the same on larger drivers but the increased moving mass would make them slower, but the 10" GTI has a bl of 12.12 but the 15" has 15.39.

[jlw*22 0]

I was the one talking about Bl. I wasn't saying they would be slower. I mean that because they lose control and get sloppy people believe they are not "tight". I can't speak for all sub series because I personally have seen less than 0.1% of the market. In general they are one motor on many sizes and hence forth horrible for the larger subs. Just look at some of the photos of many subs out there and see how generic they can be in the design process. The worst thing is people don't remember that the cone must move further to produce low frequencies than it does to produce higher frequencies of the same output level (db). If you have access to some of the more detailed enclosure design programs you can see simulated cone movement charts and see what I mean. Now that being said, all these one motor for all designs kill the large cone drivers by boxing in the frequency response on the top by the inductance and on the bottom by excursion limits. They do matter on both. Inductance is not your friend. You don't want to store power in a driver. That is heat and that is burn. (Distortion is different of course, but the same thing is being done as far as heat buildup.) Excursion is self explanatory. If it ain't got the guts it ain't got the move. Bottom the sub out and you again start having problems. Engineers have for years compensated these issues with longer coils, backplates, shorting ring (good one for the whole lot I think), venting, cone mass, and sinking. Most of these have helped properly designed subs as well so don't get your feathers ruffled over that. The cheap ones are noticeable. You can tell by the phony power ratings. I have seen many 1000 watt subs with small print stating 200 watts.

Its really important to know also that using the same motor can be good to some uses. If you can make a well designed motor that can fit the needs of multiple driver sizes, I would say great. They are out there. The one thing you will know is that the magnet is only part of this. The pole and plates are an evenly important design feature. Coils in some series of woofers vary by size. This is not a coincidence. This is the tailoring that I refer too. Any rate I am babbling by the finger so I will rest my fingers and wish all well as I seek new topics.

[Doctor Q 12]

i like eggs

[///M5 2,833]

The part I find the most amusing is that I called his statement stupid 7 posts before it was made and he still made it.

[Tmax98 3]

The part I find the most amusing is that I called his statement stupid 7 posts before it was made and he still made it.

fail on his part

[suprefly 0]

The part I find the most amusing is that I called his statement stupid 7 posts before it was made and he still made it.

fail on his part

Haha that is win

[Godsmack 361]

God I love arguements that cannot be proven with wished, but rather proven with science!!!!

And BTW as mentioned earlier, double double's FTW

[jlw*22 0]

I was the one talking about Bl. I wasn't saying they would be slower. I mean that because they lose control and get sloppy people believe they are not "tight". I can't speak for all sub series because I personally have seen less than 0.1% of the market. In general they are one motor on many sizes and hence forth horrible for the larger subs. Just look at some of the photos of many subs out there and see how generic they can be in the design process. The worst thing is people don't remember that the cone must move further to produce low frequencies than it does to produce higher frequencies of the same output level (db). If you have access to some of the more detailed enclosure design programs you can see simulated cone movement charts and see what I mean. Now that being said, all these one motor for all designs kill the large cone drivers by boxing in the frequency response on the top by the inductance and on the bottom by excursion limits. They do matter on both. Inductance is not your friend. You don't want to store power in a driver. That is heat and that is burn. (Distortion is different of course, but the same thing is being done as far as heat buildup.) Excursion is self explanatory. If it ain't got the guts it ain't got the move. Bottom the sub out and you again start having problems. Engineers have for years compensated these issues with longer coils, backplates, shorting ring (good one for the whole lot I think), venting, cone mass, and sinking. Most of these have helped properly designed subs as well so don't get your feathers ruffled over that. The cheap ones are noticeable. You can tell by the phony power ratings. I have seen many 1000 watt subs with small print stating 200 watts.

Its really important to know also that using the same motor can be good to some uses. If you can make a well designed motor that can fit the needs of multiple driver sizes, I would say great. They are out there. The one thing you will know is that the magnet is only part of this. The pole and plates are an evenly important design feature. Coils in some series of woofers vary by size. This is not a coincidence. This is the tailoring that I refer too. Any rate I am babbling by the finger so I will rest my fingers and wish all well as I seek new topics.

As I read more on this driver technology it seems I have still much more to learn. The whole statement is partially right and somewhat wrong.

Edited May 14, 2009 by jw 2 + 2

[jlw*22 0]

As I read further through my HT book, I understand that the LE rating gives you a map so to speak, of how the drivers resists the flow of the signal. I understand as the inductance rises it causes the woofer to appear more resistant to the current. If the woofer is to heavy for this frequency it builds up the energy and you get excessive heat buildup. Too much gets you a good burn. Thats if I have read into this right.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

This will teach you more than you ever thought you would know.