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Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

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fritos, are you even running tweeters? that would seem like a logical first step, along with playing with the HP filter

i stopped using them a few years ago, but now im wanting to put some back in for my next system redo

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Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

Keep up really depends completely on your definition.

What do you have for processing?

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Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

Keep up really depends completely on your definition.

What do you have for processing?

I just want to be able to hear it.

Processing, is just the radio (premier 590), which ill be gettin a different one cuz the front channel are messed up on it, and the controls on the amp.

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Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

Keep up really depends completely on your definition.

What do you have for processing?

I just want to be able to hear it.

Processing, is just the radio (premier 590), which ill be gettin a different one cuz the front channel are messed up on it, and the controls on the amp.

Currently with your setup you CANNOT run the goldwoods or the Daytons. You need crossovers kid. No wonder it sounds like ass. If you are going to run DIY drivers you need active crossovers. If this is truly the route you are going to run please buy a headunit that can handle this and do some background reading and searching on active crossovers BEFORE buying anything else.s

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Ok, so now if i keep the daytons, and add a tweeter for a two way setup, and get rid of the goldwoods. Ill have two speakers and two tweeters 100rms each. would that be able to keep up with a 6000rms sub stage?

Keep up really depends completely on your definition.

What do you have for processing?

I just want to be able to hear it.

Processing, is just the radio (premier 590), which ill be gettin a different one cuz the front channel are messed up on it, and the controls on the amp.

Currently with your setup you CANNOT run the goldwoods or the Daytons. You need crossovers kid. No wonder it sounds like ass. If you are going to run DIY drivers you need active crossovers. If this is truly the route you are going to run please buy a headunit that can handle this and do some background reading and searching on active crossovers BEFORE buying anything else.s

Ive done some reading, thats why Im trying to redo everything. but right now its doesnt sound terribly bad, i just want it better.

Isnt the crossover on the amp good enough?

Would passive crossovers work for just doin a 2 way? I'm goin more toward active now though

Cant that headunit handle goin active, or are you sayin i just need to get one with a working front channel.

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I don't think your amp can, but since you haven't told us what amp it is I really cannot tell you. Your headunit most definitely cannot currently do active even if it were working...unless my memory fails me but i doubt that.

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And with no real crossovers and running the difficult drivers you currently have in your system I would say most definitely currently it sounds really, really bad.

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I thought i said it earlier, but the amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel.

What makes the hu capable of doing active?

It has crossovers built in that will cover the required frequency range of your drivers. Normally it would also include t/a and appropriate eq for each channel to make it sound good.

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I thought i said it earlier, but the amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel.

What makes the hu capable of doing active?

It has crossovers built in that will cover the required frequency range of your drivers. Normally it would also include t/a and appropriate eq for each channel to make it sound good.

t/a? time adjustment?

Do you have a name of a hu that i could use? Would an external crossover between the hu and amp work?

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Pio 800/880prs, Eclipse 8053, 8443, 8454,8455, Ural CDD, Clarion DRZ9255, Alpine H701+(controller or h/u), Pioneer P9 combo

Plus there are also off board processors, but being a new to this all I'd recommend you stay with something you can control in the headunit.

*note the list is not complete, but I am biased and won't put stuff I wouldn't even think about in it.

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i was thinking of eclipse before. or alpine, but I havent seen a place to get a H701(is that just the processor?)

im looking to get way from pioneer because of the pico fuse problem

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i was thinking of eclipse before. or alpine, but I havent seen a place to get a H701(is that just the processor?)

im looking to get way from pioneer because of the pico fuse problem

How can you have found the pico fuse problem on the web but completely missed all info on active crossovers? Other than a couple really early Pio's I have not seen the pico fuse problem ever appear. Bang for the buck its the winner in my book.

Yes the H701 is just a processor.

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i was thinking of eclipse before. or alpine, but I havent seen a place to get a H701(is that just the processor?)

im looking to get way from pioneer because of the pico fuse problem

How can you have found the pico fuse problem on the web but completely missed all info on active crossovers? Other than a couple really early Pio's I have not seen the pico fuse problem ever appear. Bang for the buck its the winner in my book.

Yes the H701 is just a processor.

I found that out because i had that problem. first i had noise. then i had a mishappen with my subs and got a thump noise whenever i turned off my amp. then my front channel whined alot more then turned to static. i grounded the rcas. and it fixed the thump sound but not the front channel static.

but i did just look at the premier and pioneer stuff again and it does seem more affordable

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another question about rear speakers. Why not use them? Is it a highs up front bass in the back thing? I would think it would be like a surround sound and it would be better? or am i way off

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another question about rear speakers. Why not use them? Is it a highs up front bass in the back thing? I would think it would be like a surround sound and it would be better? or am i way off

Surround sound is great for watching movies, but music is recorded in 2 channels. When you go to a concert, is the band in front of you or behind you? That is the type of environment you try to create in your car, so the music is staged like it is recorded, in front of you.

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Pio 800/880prs, Eclipse 8053, 8443, 8454,8455, Ural CDD, Clarion DRZ9255, Alpine H701+(controller or h/u), Pioneer P9 combo

Plus there are also off board processors, but being a new to this all I'd recommend you stay with something you can control in the headunit.

*note the list is not complete, but I am biased and won't put stuff I wouldn't even think about in it.

if your really on a budget clarion has the dxz785usb, sonic, 140 bucks... i got it for 200 at xmas, very nice hu for the money imo.

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another question about rear speakers. Why not use them? Is it a highs up front bass in the back thing? I would think it would be like a surround sound and it would be better? or am i way off

Surround sound is great for watching movies, but music is recorded in 2 channels. When you go to a concert, is the band in front of you or behind you? That is the type of environment you try to create in your car, so the music is staged like it is recorded, in front of you.

oh, well thats a good logical reason.haha

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And it just isn't a logical way to spend your budget.

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i added some acousta stuff to the boxes in the door and got some better sound. i also looked at the amp crossovers again, it only has a 30 to 400hz selection range if i remember right. right now i have the daytons set to play 60hz and up

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What happens when you turn the HP off on the Daytons? Those enclosures might be enough of a crossover to prevent them from having issues anyways. If you do this, do listen closely to make sure they don't complain. To make this easier I would shut your sub off and listen to the mids alone.

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What happens when you turn the HP off on the Daytons? Those enclosures might be enough of a crossover to prevent them from having issues anyways. If you do this, do listen closely to make sure they don't complain. To make this easier I would shut your sub off and listen to the mids alone.

thats how i did it. i turned off everythin but the daytons. I played it full range but I didnt like how it sounded on low stuff. so i turned the HP back on and set it to play 60hz and up.

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