Midbass

[fritosaregood 0]

Im goin to put some 8in woofers in my rear doors for midbass in my next build. Is IB or sealed better? it will be powered with 100 watts

[johnecon2001 82]

Depends entirely on the woofer you're using and what you're pairing it with.

[fritosaregood 0]

Im thinking about these dayton 10's:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....110&scqty=2

midrange is going to be sealed. then tweeter

10's are goin in the rear door, midrange and tweeter in the front.

powered by and alpine pdx 5

Subs are two audiopulse axis 15's with two saz 3000s

[johnecon2001 82]

If you look at the graph of the specs for them. They look far better suited towards midrange duty. However, with a large enough sealed enclosure and some good processing, you could probably make them work.

[chad y 1]

Im goin to put some 8in woofers in my rear doors for midbass in my next build. Is IB or sealed better? it will be powered with 100 watts

Why would you put midbass in the rear doors? IMO they should be upfront with the midrange and highs.

Chad

[///M5 2,833]

Definitely get them up front.

[fritosaregood 0]

there was another woofer I was lookin at with a lower frequency range, and possibly using an E8.

The only reason for rear doors is space. Im using an 8in selenium for midrange too, so them both may not fit and still have room. i usually have my leg leaned over on the door when i drive and if i move it farther back on the door it get very close to the seat. but i can play around with the woofer positions again and see wat i can do.

[///M5 2,833]

Lucky for you it will be easy to replace that useless mid with a mid-bass that can actually do something. There is NO reason for using an 8" mid and is a complete waste.

[fritosaregood 0]

Lucky for you it will be easy to replace that useless mid with a mid-bass that can actually do something. There is NO reason for using an 8" mid and is a complete waste.

so just a tweeter and midbass will sound good? or do i just need a smaller midrange

[Bobaflob 0]

I think he meant to replace your current 8" midrange with a smaller one and use a 8" midbass

[///M5 2,833]

Yes, an 8" midrange is an oxymoron (outside of the pro-audio world anyway).

What do you have for processing?

[fritosaregood 0]

Yes, an 8" midrange is an oxymoron (outside of the pro-audio world anyway).

What do you have for processing?

it is a pro audio driver. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-424

as for processing i am probably goin to have a passive setup with this crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....144&scqty=2 for the tweeter and midrange, and have midbass on a different channel. or use the 3 way version of the crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-150

the amp im using is a alpine 5 channel

[///M5 2,833]

Yes, an 8" midrange is an oxymoron (outside of the pro-audio world anyway).

What do you have for processing?

it is a pro audio driver. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-424

as for processing i am probably goin to have a passive setup with this crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....144&scqty=2 for the tweeter and midrange, and have midbass on a different channel. or use the 3 way version of the crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-150

the amp im using is a alpine 5 channel

Regrettably, you need to start over completely. You really, really, really shouldn't run passives for a 3 way. You really can't use an off the shelf passive with that driver or pretty much 95% of drivers. That isn't a mid that belongs anywhere near a car...and will most definitely sound like complete ass with that crossover.

My guess is you think you want to be as loud as possible for as little money as possible, but if that is truly your goal you should ask for help in with the complete system and not just on adding a driver, unless you don't care what it sounds like and just truly want loud only. My ears are bleeding just thinking about it.

[fritosaregood 0]

Yes, an 8" midrange is an oxymoron (outside of the pro-audio world anyway).

What do you have for processing?

it is a pro audio driver. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-424

as for processing i am probably goin to have a passive setup with this crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....144&scqty=2 for the tweeter and midrange, and have midbass on a different channel. or use the 3 way version of the crossover: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-150

the amp im using is a alpine 5 channel

Regrettably, you need to start over completely. You really, really, really shouldn't run passives for a 3 way. You really can't use an off the shelf passive with that driver or pretty much 95% of drivers. That isn't a mid that belongs anywhere near a car...and will most definitely sound like complete ass with that crossover.

My guess is you think you want to be as loud as possible for as little money as possible, but if that is truly your goal you should ask for help in with the complete system and not just on adding a driver, unless you don't care what it sounds like and just truly want loud only. My ears are bleeding just thinking about it.

With the amp I have i could run 3 way active, front, rear, and sub channel, but i figured it would be a better use of power to do passive. that is why i kind of split between the two for a 2way crossover for tweeter and midrange and a separate channel for midbass.

What makes that driver car non-friendly?

I am wanting it to be loud, so it will work with 2 15's with 2 saz3000s. I also want it to sound good. that is why i am trying(not well apparently) to do components to piece it together.

This is what i have in the doors now: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-374

and 4 of these in the rear deck: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=290-309

Those have great output, and sound nice to me. but i want to actually try and make a good frontstage now.

Edited March 17, 2009 by fritosaregood

[///M5 2,833]

So the Dayton's aren't loud enough? At what frequencies do you need more?

[fritosaregood 0]

So the Dayton's aren't loud enough? At what frequencies do you need more?

I like them but they are easily overpowered by the goldwoods. I am missing my higher frequency range.

I bought a boss super tweeter(cuz it was big and shiney) about 3 years ago and it made me not want tweeter cuz it hurt, and not a good hurt like you get from subs. but now im missing the higher ranges in music. Im gettin back into alot of my techno and classical music.

here are the tweeters ive been looking at: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl....084&scqty=2

and http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=277-086

[///M5 2,833]

Let's stop shopping and discuss more about what you are missing.

How much power do you have going to the Daytons, what frequencies are they playing, how are they currently installed and to what, what amplifier, what wiring, and most importantly what about them do the Goldwoods overpower?

[fritosaregood 0]

Let's stop shopping and discuss more about what you are missing.

How much power do you have going to the Daytons, what frequencies are they playing, how are they currently installed and to what, what amplifier, what wiring, and most importantly what about them do the Goldwoods overpower?

I am also lacking good midbass.

As for the daytons: The alpine amp has a 105rms rating but i have the gain turned down since the daytons are only rated at 60rms.

I have them set on high pass, not sure of the exact setting since its just a knob,

currently installed in a sealed fiberglass enclosure that is fiberglassed to a door panel.

Amp is an alpine pdx 5 channel.

Wiring is 16gauge run from the amp to the stock wire(18 gauge or lower) that is suppose to plug into the factory radio, then goes to speakers. I planned on running 14 gauge throughout the car when i start this build and eliminate the stock wire. the goldwoods are 14 or 16 gauge from amp to speaker.

The goldwoods are just over all louder 4 of them compared to 2 daytons and more power too. The daytons do do better on the higher notes that i do have though.

positioning could also be a problem with the dayton.

pic of the door panel:

Edited March 17, 2009 by fritosaregood

[fritosaregood 0]

M5 around tonight for some help? Or anyone else?

[///M5 2,833]

I am also lacking good midbass.

As for the daytons: The alpine amp has a 105rms rating but i have the gain turned down since the daytons are only rated at 60rms.

I have them set on high pass, not sure of the exact setting since its just a knob,

currently installed in a sealed fiberglass enclosure that is fiberglassed to a door panel.

positioning could also be a problem with the dayton.

pic of the door panel:

How big is this sealed enclosure? It looks WAY too small for the Daytons from your pictures which of course kills your midbass.

HP, without knowing the settings can also KILL your midbass, in fact that is sort of its job. Really beware with that knob, if the drivers don't complain without it you don't need it. I try to run my mids full range.

The Daytons can soak up the 105, no need to just give them 60...but use your ears and your brain if you hear them complaining turn them down. In those dinky enclosures though they might even be able to handle way, way more power.

Positioning is a problem with your Goldwoods. All of your non-sub speakers should be in front of you and not behind you.

[fritosaregood 0]

Should I use the daytons as my midbass or midrange. Is frequency range was i think 70 - 2200hz. Do you know if that range is for the tweeter too? Should I use a separate tweeter?

As for the goldwoods, that was never the intended spot for them, but before that i had four 4 inch ports in the rear deck for the subs. Then i changed my setup and saw that the goldwoods fit the wholes perfect so i sealed up the piece that holds those drivers too. Its very noticable that most of the sound is coming from behind.

The enclosure:

[///M5 2,833]

The Daytons can play lower than that, but I wouldn't run them that high. They are geared to be a part of a 2 way and not a 3 way. If you go 3 way, you will need to sell them and buy something else.

You need to measure or at least estimate that enclosure size for me to tell what is going on with the Daytons. Make sure you are as accurate as possible. Take the drivers out and fill the cavity with something: sand, packing peanuts, whatever you have and then measure the volume that comes out.

[fritosaregood 0]

The Daytons can play lower than that, but I wouldn't run them that high. They are geared to be a part of a 2 way and not a 3 way. If you go 3 way, you will need to sell them and buy something else.

You need to measure or at least estimate that enclosure size for me to tell what is going on with the Daytons. Make sure you are as accurate as possible. Take the drivers out and fill the cavity with something: sand, packing peanuts, whatever you have and then measure the volume that comes out.

So is that not a tweeter on the daytons? Im leaning towards 3 way so i can have somethin better for midbass maybe an E8. would it be alright to have an E8 for midbass and just a tweeter.

I can measure the enclosure tomorrow.

[///M5 2,833]

Not a tweeter, its a phase plug. Not so sure you want to put E8s in your doors and definitely not in those enclosures as they will get squashed and have no low end.

[fritosaregood 0]

Not a tweeter, its a phase plug. Not so sure you want to put E8s in your doors and definitely not in those enclosures as they will get squashed and have no low end.

That goes back to my original question of sealed or IB, if i did sealed it would be a different enclosure.

What is a phase plug?