Building a sub box onto the cab of my truck

[cx-7heaven 7]

I want to build a sealed box behind the back seat of my 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is VERY little space back there, to the point that to get my airspace, I need to get rid of the back wall of the box. My idea is to use some damplifier pro or spectru sludge on the cab wall to create the back wall of the enclosure. Am I on the right track? Or is there a better way to do this. This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife.

Thanks

Rob

[jonbearsmt 919]

i have seen it done before... but i never thought it was a good idea.

blow thru?

[cx-7heaven 7]

Hate to say it but reading > you?

This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife

I have seen it done before as well, with no deadener, it was crazy loud but flexed the whole cab

[layedouton20s 0]

i took it as you cant do a wall or something like that

maybe thats what he thought.

i would hate to say it but explaining>you

Edited February 14, 2009 by layedouton20s

[cx-7heaven 7]

i took it as you cant do a wall or something like that

maybe thats what he thought.

i would hate to say it but explanation>you

I think I explained just fine, but to clarify no wall, behind the back seat under the window no blow through, no box on the seat, no box hanging out the window, no box floating magically on an anti grav device.

[layedouton20s 0]

i wasnt trying to be an ass.

there are people who have done this on s10s but they have cut the back of the wall and used a

flat piece of steel but the s10s have ribs on the back of the cab.

do the dakotas have ribs or anything like that?

i think it will work but it obviously depends on what subs you are putting in there do to the flexing.

[cx-7heaven 7]

The one I saw was on a late 80's isuzu p/u same thing as an s10. He had 4 pioneer IMPP 8's on that with 600 watts, and it was stupid how loud it was, especially for what it was. His cab wasnt cut either, it was just siliconed to the back. I'll be running 8 sundown e 8's with 4 kw of power, so you can see my concern. It is ribbed

[BigDaddy13440 3]

Weld some steel rod or angle iron across the ribs, give that panel something to brace against.

Then, 'glass the living crap out of it, minimum 8-10-12 layers, probably more. You want a panel that isn't flat, with some horizontal and vertical bracing (hence the rod/ribs) - something at least 3/8" thick, preferably 1/2" or more.

Put some type of damping material on the inside, and build the front of the enclosure out of 3/4" MDF or birch. Don't think you need anything thicker, as you are only using 8's. Just make sure you do some internal bracing, the front baffle should be fine.

I fiberglassed the inside of my enclosures for my two 15's, built into the quarter panels of my Tahoe. Used 4-5 layers and silicone to seal the seams, don't notice any panel flex at all. Granted, I'm only pushing 250 watts to a 15" sub with only 6mm of excursion, but still.....

I did an enclosure inside a VW Rabbit quite a few years back... laid 1/2" of foam against all the interior panels (and glass), then fiberglassed EVERYTHING, made the enclosure over 1/2" thick, and 'glassed in cross-bracing. Did a 1" baffle on the front, put (4) 15's in it, had approximately 14-15 cu ft.

So yes, you CAN use the back wall and sides for the enclosure :bigclap:

[BigDaddy13440 3]

You can also gain some space by lifting the rear seat a couple of inches, and building an L-shaped box partially underneath the seat. Might pick up a couple cubes of airspace by doing that.

[dbjunior 0]

any pics of the back seats and room you are working with might help

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

If the wall is ribbed why not make the back of the enclosure fiberglass using 6 or 8 layers of 1.5 ounce chopped strand mat. Should only be 3/16 to 1/4 inch thick. Deaden the back wall of the truck. Then rivit the enclosure to the back wall. This would make it strong enough, and would not rattle, and allow it to be removed if needed.