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Ive got a sundown 3000 amp and a 300amp circuit breaker. ive been to a few comps and my circuit breaker has blown in some of my runs. Is it ok to run the system without the circuit breaker just for comps?

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Ive got a sundown 3000 amp and a 300amp circuit breaker. ive been to a few comps and my circuit breaker has blown in some of my runs. Is it ok to run the system without the circuit breaker just for comps?

what does your electrical look like?

if you dont have enough power behind that amp the breaker will trip.

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Ive got a sundown 3000 amp and a 300amp circuit breaker. ive been to a few comps and my circuit breaker has blown in some of my runs. Is it ok to run the system without the circuit breaker just for comps?

what does your electrical look like?

if you dont have enough power behind that amp the breaker will trip.

200 amp alt, 0 gage everywhere it needs to be, 2 kinetic 1800s, and an autozone battery under the hood

Edited by fritosaregood

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you below an ohm?

160 amp hours should be good

what are your settings like?

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you below an ohm?

160 amp hours should be good

what are your settings like?

its a dual 2 wired at 1, gain is maybe 1/3 or less, rca voltage from deck is 4 volts, my bass boost is at half,

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you below an ohm?

160 amp hours should be good

what are your settings like?

its a dual 2 wired at 1, gain is maybe 1/3 or less, rca voltage from deck is 4 volts, my bass boost is at half,

IMO...

drop the bass boost to none....

raise the gain a little.. and wheres your subsonic set?

on your head unit where is your bass set to?

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you below an ohm?

160 amp hours should be good

what are your settings like?

its a dual 2 wired at 1, gain is maybe 1/3 or less, rca voltage from deck is 4 volts, my bass boost is at half,

IMO...

drop the bass boost to none....

raise the gain a little.. and wheres your subsonic set?

on your head unit where is your bass set to?

ive had the boost on none before and there is very little output. but maybe raising the gain would take care of that.

my subsonic is set at roughly 20~25 right now.

hu bass is 0

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i run mine at 1 ohm.... bass boost nada.... gain 1/2 .. subsonic is 30ish deck bass -4

there is no way in hell a saz 3000d is giving little power at 1 ohm...

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i run mine at 1 ohm.... bass boost nada.... gain 1/2 .. subsonic is 30ish deck bass -4

there is no way in hell a saz 3000d is giving little power at 1 ohm...

ill try turnin my gain up once i put that setup back in. my deck doenst go negative bass boost. just one the eq

another thing. Im plannin one runnin two dual 2 ohm subs for comps soon. so ill have the amp on a .5 ohm load. ive heard it puts out 3700ish watts at .5, will this be a problem with the 300amp circuit breaker?

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i run mine at 1 ohm.... bass boost nada.... gain 1/2 .. subsonic is 30ish deck bass -4

there is no way in hell a saz 3000d is giving little power at 1 ohm...

ill try turnin my gain up once i put that setup back in. my deck doenst go negative bass boost. just one the eq

another thing. Im plannin one runnin two dual 2 ohm subs for comps soon. so ill have the amp on a .5 ohm load. ive heard it puts out 3700ish watts at .5, will this be a problem with the 300amp circuit breaker?

i dont think you have enough back bone to run that amp at half ohm full tilt.

how if your ground done on this car or suv im guessing.

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i run mine at 1 ohm.... bass boost nada.... gain 1/2 .. subsonic is 30ish deck bass -4

there is no way in hell a saz 3000d is giving little power at 1 ohm...

ill try turnin my gain up once i put that setup back in. my deck doenst go negative bass boost. just one the eq

another thing. Im plannin one runnin two dual 2 ohm subs for comps soon. so ill have the amp on a .5 ohm load. ive heard it puts out 3700ish watts at .5, will this be a problem with the 300amp circuit breaker?

i dont think you have enough back bone to run that amp at half ohm full tilt.

how if your ground done on this car or suv im guessing.

its a honda accord. the grounds in the trunks are to a frame piece.

wat else would i need to run at .5 ohm? i assumed id be find since its a little power increase

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your having problems now... you drop that amp lower then an ohm with a weak back bone your taking a huge chance.

i think hondas have a split frame... im not sure on that.. but i think.

you may wanna do a run to the front of 0gauge for ground...

do you have a voltage gauge on your car?

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your having problems now... you drop that amp lower then an ohm with a weak back bone your taking a huge chance.

i think hondas have a split frame... im not sure on that.. but i think.

you may wanna do a run to the front of 0gauge for ground...

do you have a voltage gauge on your car?

ill have to look into the split frame

i have a stinger one, but its not in the car yet. ive had that system out of the car for over a month now, but i dont remember havin my lights dim when runnin it at full tilt when driving, but usually after 5 or so minutes at full tilt on music while driving the circuit breaker will blow.

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The more often you pop that breaker, the less amperage it's going to hold. Replace that bish with a fuse.

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The more often you pop that breaker, the less amperage it's going to hold. Replace that bish with a fuse.

X4

If it takes time to trip, then it does it when it's warm....... so there is something wrong with it :Doh:

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I'm with everyone else

GET A FUSE :)

Breakers aren't reliable... they can get weak and trip all the time or they can stick and never "pop"

stay away from breakers :)

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i use all breakers... and at first i had problems with the one before my amp poping....

i added more juice and no mo problem.

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i use all breakers... and at first i had problems with the one before my amp poping....

i added more juice and no mo problem.

the increased voltage lessened the amp draw so you stopped popping it... Nothing wrong with adding more juice :)

Breaker can work I just don't use/trust them either way.. Just like a breaker in a house if you pop it enough times it seems to weaken and pop more easily... for instance.. the 20A fuse in my home that runs the kitchen outlets and lights... originally it popped if the lights were on with the Microwave running and fridge kicked on, then it begain to pop just when switching the light on (one 60watt bulb) if you ran the microwave, and over time I could no longer run the microwave at all it'd pop after a few seconds. swapped the breaker and no more problems.. I can run everything at once now...

I just like fuses... fairly predictable(I do MECA so I have to fuse anyway...)

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i really like the circuit breaker. saves money from replacing a fuse every time, and its quicker to reset. but ill try out a fuse once i put it all back in and run it full tilt and see if the fuse blows. if the fuse still blows ill have to add more juice i guess.

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You have a whole set of other issues if you blow a 300 amp fuse... You have to have some Serious voltage drop or other problems....

**I blew 320A running my cd4800LX at .5 ohm... it only blew because the voltage dropped to 10ish volts... (bench testing with no back up power) other than that I only blow fuses when I have to for testing (for MECA)

For reference:

I could run my zx2500 at full tilt on 1 ohm on just 80 (single 80A ANL) amps of fuse...

I ran two zx2500's at 2ohm full tilt on 100amps (single 100A ANL) just for burps..

Multi fusing you can run on less but that's a MECA thing :D___which is the only reason why I know I can run a zx2500 on 80A

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and thats why i was asking about the volt meter... it seems to be your dipping now.. or you have a weak ground...

but CB's are know for being trip happy after a while...

i got away from fuses because of the leaway. of them... an 80 amp fuse will let 100-120 pass thru it.

i wanted time to pop when it needs to pop...

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ive tested grounds when i installed my setup, and they all read the same voltage as the battery. i also removed all the ground that were just to sheet metal and made them to frame pieces

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