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ok, if i bought about 20 Feet of KnuKonceptz 1/0 Gauge Power Wire and 6 Directed Electronics 63205 1 / 0-gauge Ring Terminals

would that be all i need to do the BIG 3?

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to get this straight.....

#1 Pos of battery to Pos of Alternator (do i add to the old wire? or replace the old?)

#2 Neg of battery to Chassis (self explanitory)

#3 Engine to Chassis (on the engine just any exsisting bolt?? on chassis same place as #2???)

Hyundai Sonata 2000

Edited by sandsnip3r

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to get this straight.....

#1 Pos of battery to Pos of Alternator (do i add to the old wire? or replace the old?)

#2 Neg of battery to Chassis (self explanitory)

#3 Engine to Chassis (on the engine just any exsisting bolt?? on chassis same place as #2???)

Hyundai Sonata 2000

dont remove the old wired from the alt, just at the 0 guage, i put 0 guage from my alt to my chassis too.

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for your engine ground you can use your bracket that holds your alternator in place

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that's a good price for 1/0, it's ~$56 for 25ft shipped from weldingsupply.

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if i got the 1/0, that would work?

and if im running a 2200 watt amp, can i run 4 gauge?

i had a 1900 watt amp on the 4 gauge before...

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if i got the 1/0, that would work?

and if im running a 2200 watt amp, can i run 4 gauge?

i had a 1900 watt amp on the 4 gauge before...

that 0 would work

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for what? to replace the 4 gauge? or can i just leave it?

and if i need to change it.... what about the fuse? just transfer it to the 0 wire?

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If it has 1/0 gauge terminals I would sue zero gauge. If the fuse holder accepts 1/0 gauge you can reuse it as for the fuse itself, you fuse for the wire. 1/0 = 300 amp

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Your amp try to compensate for the low voltage by working harder, and it will overheat and die in the long run (my friend killed his hifonics 1608 with voltage issues). Below 12 would be low with 13.8 - 14.4 being ideal.

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