Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
CadillacMatt

Bass is nothing like it should be

Recommended Posts

if your box is tuned to 32 hz, 25 hz on the subsonic should work. Have to remember that the crossover point isn't the point at which the level starts to decline, it's already the -3db level.

As for the box facing debate, I just say try it. In my old car I had a large box like that and I tested both ways and decided on front firing. Another guy with a car like mine who competed said he was in the same boat and found that front firing yielded higher on the mic for him. I never got mind metered. It sounded basically the same, but there may have been a hint more with it front firing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMHO, I would at least *try* turning the box around. The only problem is that you basically have to have the rear seats down for it to sound good at all... at least in my experiences...

Subsonic should be as close to tuning as possible to reduce the threat of mechanical failure. 30 htz is good for SSF in your box.

LPF... I'd put it closer to 60 or lower for a 15, but that's just me.

Have you tried playing it with the seats down? If I play my sub in my car w/ windows up and rear seat up, it is about half as loud sounding as windows down and rear seat down...

And... 18 gauge??? Fix that first ASAP... I mean you do not need 8 gauge or anything, but I'd say 12 or 10... I won't even use 18 ga for my 6.5's :P

Edited by nick_19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 3/4"d x 17"h x 39"w

Port Length: 25.75"

Port Width: 6.5"

Port Height: 15.5"

Port Area: 100.75sqin

And like I said this box was built EXACTLY to spec as designed by Chris at Fisher Customs...

cool... the box was deeper and the port was more narrow than I thought... Missed the f/c that you stated in your post..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my box is like 8 cubes before port and sub. like high 6 after....

i have a very big car.... mine is longer then most all lincoln towncars... and my seats dont go down.... mine is sub back port back @ 33hrz

mine pounds, bl's or nightshades, i have never had the Q's but people love them

sealed up sounds not so great... putting the front two windowns down... or with the front doors open really lets it rumble

at anyrate i wanna see and hear this car!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just say try it. In my old car I had a large box like that and I tested both ways and decided on front firing. Another guy with a car like mine who competed said he was in the same boat and found that front firing yielded higher on the mic for him. I never got mind metered. It sounded basically the same, but there may have been a hint more with it front firing.

I've heard that front firing technically yields a higher SPL reading, but "seems" less loud.

my box is like 8 cubes before port and sub. like high 6 after....

i have a very big car.... mine is longer then most all lincoln towncars... and my seats dont go down.... mine is sub back port back @ 33hrz

mine pounds, bl's or nightshades, i have never had the Q's but people love them

sealed up sounds not so great... putting the front two windowns down... or with the front doors open really lets it rumble

at anyrate i wanna see and hear this car!

Yeah with the windows up the bass REALLY sucks. I never play the system at any volume with the windows up. If it's cold outside I just turn up the heater and crack them halfway lol :D

IMHO, I would at least *try* turning the box around. The only problem is that you basically have to have the rear seats down for it to sound good at all... at least in my experiences...

Subsonic should be as close to tuning as possible to reduce the threat of mechanical failure. 30 htz is good for SSF in your box.

LPF... I'd put it closer to 60 or lower for a 15, but that's just me.

Have you tried playing it with the seats down? If I play my sub in my car w/ windows up and rear seat up, it is about half as loud sounding as windows down and rear seat down...

And... 18 gauge??? Fix that first ASAP... I mean you do not need 8 gauge or anything, but I'd say 12 or 10... I won't even use 18 ga for my 6.5's tongue.gif

Seats don't come down... I have a small triangular cutout behind my armrest and a couple of empty 6x9 holes to let the bass in... why I think that's the problem.

People with BMWs I hear have the same problem (trunks are completely sealed from the cabin) and end up porting the rear deck to remedy it... I don't see what this can really hurt anyways. Something like this:

Img_0581.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've heard that front firing technically yields a higher SPL reading, but "seems" less loud.

VERY vehicle and install dependent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so u tryna go for this:

goto :58 secs

I mean if it was me in the situation I would try everything else and cutting would be the last choice. I mean it could be one simple solution to it. Too bad ur seats don't fold down to fire into the cabin

Edited by master_jbb3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think you got them wired out of phase. Just my opinion.

Definitely not wired out of phase.

Ooook. So I checked my LPF on the amp, and I had it set in the middle (20-200Hz range, so it was actually set at 110Hz). I figured this was my problem, and set it down to about 60Hz... and the bass lost most of the higher notes, lost any sort of blending with the speakers (it sounded exactly like two speakers were wailing in the trunk... horrible) and to kick it off the bass output was not even increased in the lower end, and the voltage drops were much bigger. I was really at a loss for words.

So I set it back to about 90Hz and voila it's back to the way it was. Still sounds to me like the bass is getting "stuck" because at higher volumes I hear a sickening rattle noise that I believe is actually the trunk lid and not the subs (it overpowers the bass) so I need to do a little more investigating I suppose. I ordered some more cable today for the Big 3 and some 12ga speaker wire from KnuKonceptz so I will get that done ASAP...

Electrical seems to be OK, at full tilt it drops to about 13.0-13.1 but the higher I set the LPF the lower the voltage drop is (but I don't seem to lose any output... go figure).

Also, the amp rarely gets hot but the dust caps on the subs get a little warm (not very much so but slightly warm) is this normal as well? I don't smell anything burning or anything like that.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

im doin an install on a 93 deville now.... there is a steal wall from the trunk to the back seat!

is it the same in yours?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
im doin an install on a 93 deville now.... there is a steal wall from the trunk to the back seat!

is it the same in yours?

Yes 93-96 are the same body style. The steel wall has a small triangular opening on the bottom-middle, that's about the only place for the bass to come in (and when your box covers most of the hole then you see my problem lol.

I think the reason that my old subs sounded better in the cabin was because of the box's small size, allowed plenty of bass to flow back around it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

some cars are just hard to get loud really.

The Lincoln is one of them because of that dam wallish like piece..

Might just need some more power.

Wt my trunk open its ridiculously loud, u close it and it's cut in half.

I mean i've doubled my power since my last system and i don't seem to have the problem of the bass bein stuck in the trunk anymore...Cuz i use to have the same issue. But everyone has different problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×