Amp for HAT L61-2

[dlink 0]

coolio

[Tmax98 3]

also keep track of the ohm rating on the subs fyi

[dlink 0]

2 ohm, which I assumed was ok.

From the Alpine site:

* Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 4Ω for 4ch.) 75W x 4

* Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V ≤1%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz @ 2Ω for Mono ch.) 300W x 1

From what I read, lower ohm => harder tod rive, so if it can do 2, it can easily do the L6 and L1 at 4 an 8 respectively

Edited November 7, 2008 by dlink

[///M5 2,833]

TMax's comment was meant a bit differently for instance, the Mach 5 has 2+2 or DVC 2ohm meaning it requires an amplifier that will play power either at 1ohm or 4ohm's.

[MKader17 332]

If it were me I would consider the 2channel/4 channel over the 5 channel. Since your new to the scene you might find that your goals are significantly different then you expected.

Tmax98 went the 2channel/4channel route and then realized he wanted subs w/ more output so that gave him the option to sell the small two channel, move the 4 channel to tweets/mids and bought a biggger amp for some new subs. This does add a little bit more in the way of wiring, but to me its good insurance.

[dlink 0]

Ok, going the 4 and 2 route, I haven't done much research beyond pricing, but here are some options. The greener, the cheaper. Bold are within 5% of the cost of the PDX-5 (360). Bold & Italic are those that are less than the PDX-5.

Excel is my bitch

Edited November 7, 2008 by dlink

[chad y 1]

honestly there are so many inconsistencies in your posts.

in my opinion you need to know the basics of car audio, before going any further. If you don't know the basics or at least understand them. no matter what equipment (be it the best money can buy) you will still be disappointed in the end results.

just my opinion I may be just not reading thing correctly.

Just trying to help you

[dlink 0]

I am trying to learn I really am! What have I screwed up this time? I want a system that sounds good at all volume levels. I want a 10" sub because I don't want to lose all that much storage space, I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right but then I found that sealed is better for SQ, and I am going with the IDX to better blend, so sealed would actualyl be "right" for me

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html for example.

Please tell me what else I am missing and I will do my best to google the info or better explain myself. IM me. add a "wit27" to the end and there is my AIM name and I will gladly talk in real time to whoever is willing to in order to better smooth out this debacle of a build attempt.

And I thought Abstract Algebra and Discrete Mathematics was hard...

(actually discrete was pretty easy, and Abstract wasn't bad, but you get the idea )

Prove: Let H be a subgroup of a finite group G. Suppose that g belongs to G and n is the smallest possible integer such that g^n in H. Prove that n divides the order of the element g.

Proof: If g^n is in H, then g^kn is in H for all positive integers k. Let z = the order of g in G. kn = (z, n) mod z for some value of k. Therefore, g^(z,n) is in H. Hence, n = (z, n); n divides z.

Simple enough neh?

Edited November 7, 2008 by dlink

[JimJ 11]

I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right.

There's nothing wrong with a sealed enclosure, BTW...

[dlink 0]

dammit you beat me before my edit.

[chad y 1]

I am trying to learn I really am! What have I screwed up this time? I want a system that sounds good at all volume levels. I want a 10" sub because I don't want to lose all that much storage space, I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right but then I found that sealed is better for SQ, and I am going with the IDX to better blend, so sealed would actualyl be "right" for me

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html for example.

Please tell me what else I am missing and I will do my best to google the info or better explain myself. IM me. add a "wit27" to the end and there is my AIM name and I will gladly talk in real time to whoever is willing to in order to better smooth out this debacle of a build attempt.

And I thought Abstract Algebra and Discrete Mathematics was hard...

(actually discrete was pretty easy, and Abstract wasn't bad, but you get the idea )

Prove: Let H be a subgroup of a finite group G. Suppose that g belongs to G and n is the smallest possible integer such that g^n in H. Prove that n divides the order of the element g.

Proof: If g^n is in H, then g^kn is in H for all positive integers k. Let z = the order of g in G. kn = (z, n) mod z for some value of k. Therefore, g^(z,n) is in H. Hence, n = (z, n); n divides z.

Simple enough neh? "sure if you know what it means"

I am not saying that you messed up. I am however saying I think you need to understand the basics.

ohms of a speaker and it's relationship to the amp you want to run.

sealed vs ported and what maybe right for your desired install

how many amp channels needed to run your speakers

blending a sub to your front stage

these are some of the things that I have had a hard time understanding what you know.

like I said maybe it is me not completely understanding what you are trying to convey.

try to stick to one subject. make a decision then move on to the next

just my .02 cents

[Tmax98 3]

Ok, going the 4 and 2 route, I haven't done much research beyond pricing, but here are some options. The greener, the cheaper. Bold are within 5% of the cost of the PDX-5 (360). Bold & Italic are those that are less than the PDX-5.

Excel is my bitch

another option would be the 4channel and mono block amp(1 channel amp)

but i think it will be easier to go with the 4channel amp and 2channel amp mentioned earlier

4 channel amp

ch. 1&2 for mids

ch. 3&4 bridged for the sub

2 channel amp for the tweets

just showing you the break down

[dlink 0]

I am trying to learn I really am! What have I screwed up this time? I want a system that sounds good at all volume levels. I want a 10" sub because I don't want to lose all that much storage space, I was thinking ported box because I figure if I am going to do something, I am going to do it right but then I found that sealed is better for SQ, and I am going with the IDX to better blend, so sealed would actualyl be "right" for me

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/4467.html for example.

Please tell me what else I am missing and I will do my best to google the info or better explain myself. IM me. add a "wit27" to the end and there is my AIM name and I will gladly talk in real time to whoever is willing to in order to better smooth out this debacle of a build attempt.

And I thought Abstract Algebra and Discrete Mathematics was hard...

(actually discrete was pretty easy, and Abstract wasn't bad, but you get the idea )

Prove: Let H be a subgroup of a finite group G. Suppose that g belongs to G and n is the smallest possible integer such that g^n in H. Prove that n divides the order of the element g.

Proof: If g^n is in H, then g^kn is in H for all positive integers k. Let z = the order of g in G. kn = (z, n) mod z for some value of k. Therefore, g^(z,n) is in H. Hence, n = (z, n); n divides z.

Simple enough neh? "sure if you know what it means"

I am not saying that you messed up. I am however saying I think you need to understand the basics.

ohms of a speaker and it's relationship to the amp you want to run.

sealed vs ported and what maybe right for your desired install

how many amp channels needed to run your speakers

blending a sub to your front stage

these are some of the things that I have had a hard time understanding what you know.

like I said maybe it is me not completely understanding what you are trying to convey.

try to stick to one subject. make a decision then move on to the next

just my .02 cents

What I "know." I quote it because it very well could be wrong.

Concerning boxes - sealed boxes generally result in higher SQ. For more SPL, ported is the way to go. Why this is (insofar the usefulness of the rear driver) as isn't all that important except to understand that the air in the sealed box is for the most part stagnant. This produces no sound from the rear driver. For a vented/ported box this is not so. By allowing an escape route for the air, the rear driver of the woofer is able to contribute to the sound. By contribute, I don't mean add to the sound, but rather replace sound. The size and shape of the port allows you to replace frequencies that would be produced by the cone, since the cone output is reduced in a ported box. This allows you the opportunity to "tune" the frequencies you hear by modifying the port size. The downside of this is that by "tuning" the woofer, you can reduce the number of frequencies that it can effectively reach, which is what reduces SQ. Furthermore, the ported box, by allowing the driver reduces distortion at high volumes and decrease power handling, which allows the sub to more easily reach lower frequencies. In short, in order to reach the same dB level, the sealed box takes more power than the vented box. Mind you, though, that the sealed has better power handling of lower frequencies. The ported is better able to handle higher frequencies, though.

The electrical is where I get a bit lost, but from what I have found, this is my understanding thus far (I wish I paid more attention in physics):

Ohm is tantamount to resistance. The lower it is, the less current it uses. A 4 ohm speaker requires less power than an 8 ohm. Half as much, to be precise. I = V/R & I = V/Z (Ohms laws). In any case, matching Ohms helps bring about maximum voltage transfer from the source (amp) to the load (speaker). After that it gets really fun . A 4-channel amp is the proffered way to drive 4 speakers, but is not the only way. Using the L6 (4 ohm) and L1 (8 ohm) I could wire them in either parallel or series on a 2-channel amp. This would put either a 2.67 (parallel) or 12 (series) ohm load on each channel. Parallel schemes allow more power to the speakers, so better sound, but require more power from the amp. Series wiring puts less load on the amp, but you obviously get less output from the speakers then less sound. Furthermore, I could use a 4-channel to power the all 5 speakers by running a wiring scheme on two channels for the L6+L1, then bridge the remaining two channels for the sub. But this is complicated and initially warrants as much attention as a bandpass box, which is noticeably absent in the first paragraph, but later inspection, using one of Ohm's law shows how beneficial bridging can be. Without going through the math, (inversion and whatnot) bridging can nearly quadruple the wattage of a "channel" to a speaker. This means one could purchase a 2-channel 150 W amp @ X ohms and push nearly 600 W to a sub. The good news? Why buy a 600W D amp when you can get a 150 2-channel to do the same thing! The bad? This may slightly increase distortion and will increase current (double it actually). This current increase can cause damage to the amp, so the amps are generally rated safe at double the ohms. That is, an amp that is 150 W stable at 2 ohms would be 600 W stable at 4 ohms.

As for blending a sub into my front stage:

This one is actually pretty simple, and I am embarrassed that it slipped my mind. The L1 tweeter has the ability to cover 3,000

[dlink 0]

I win? I stump you all?

Edited November 11, 2008 by dlink