Some basic car audio questions, need some advice.

[360Modworkz 0]

I know some about car audio, mostly from my modding and electrical work, but I'm still confused about a few things...so bear with me.

1. SPL or Daily - we all know there's a difference, what will you be using your system for? - But what EXACTLY does this adhere to? I'd be using my system on a daily basis, not maxed out all the time, but I'm a major basshead, so there will be many occasions where I'll be wanting to tear the chit out of the guy next to me, without putting any stress on my system (subs specifically) whatsoever. So what would be better? SPL or daily? SPL gives you more power and punch correct? While daily gives you lasting performance right? Well I want the power and the longevity, exactly why I'm working up some $$$$ to get me some 12" or 15" BTL(s).

2. Any good guides? I know tons about electrical installation, wiring, and calculating; but there are lots of minute differences when it comes to amp and subwoofer installation, speakers and headunit are easy chit, but there are many factors keeping me from fully understanding the wiring and some calculations of amp-to-sub setups. So can anyone recommend any good installation guides that are detailed in the electrical perspectives? (i.e. ohmage, current, watts, etc.) I look to Crutchfield for help most of the time, but they're good in the physical installation, not the electrical and mathematics of it.

3. Box tuning. How is this achieved? This is one thing I can't even think of.

4. I'm not made of money, as is no one, but I'm not looking to spend well over $1000, which I know is small, especially when you're thinking Fi, most systems run you more than 1K, unless you do it yourself, which eventually I plan to. Can you suggest any other extremely good subs for a decent price? I can get most things fairly cheap through some wholesale contacts, but you never know.

5. Talking strictly Fi here. Fully loaded or what? What can all the options/combinations achieve for your subwoofer? I know advanced cooling and some bass enhancers are options, but could someone faintly explain what exactly these options for the BTL offer you?

6. RMS or max? Obviously max would be the preferred option when wiring a system, but I see lots of people out there powering their system RMS when they HAVE the wattage available to power at max, and they do it for a reason, but why? Just to "not-blow" your subs seems like a pussy reason to me.

7. Last one for now, for those of you that have installed systems before, is it worth it for someone that isn't as experienced to take the time to learn how to and install it himself? Or just pay the $200-$250 the chitty places around here charge you? If I do take the time to understand all this, I will be installing systems for friends, and maybe do some fiberglass and fabrication work, for a fee of course.

Thanks for reading and answering anything that came up here,

Joe

EDIT: Another one, sorry. Mono or multi-channel? Multi is better if you're wiring a large system and can control how many watts goes where, correct? But which one is more popular/better?

Also, what do capacitors and tweeters actually do? I know capacitors measure your dB output, but what else?

Thanks again,

Joe

Edited November 4, 2008 by 360Modworkz

[Cheesemind 0]

I know some about car audio, mostly from my modding and electrical work, but I'm still confused about a few things...so bear with me.

You already probably know more than me, as I only know what I've read on the internet! Well, I've installed 2 systems now, woot!

1. SPL or Daily - we all know there's a difference, what will you be using your system for? - But what EXACTLY does this adhere to? I'd be using my system on a daily basis, not maxed out all the time, but I'm a major basshead, so there will be many occasions where I'll be wanting to tear the chit out of the guy next to me, without putting any stress on my system (subs specifically) whatsoever. So what would be better? SPL or daily? SPL gives you more power and punch correct? While daily gives you lasting performance right? Well I want the power and the longevity, exactly why I'm working up some $$$$ to get me some 12" or 15" BTL(s).

I think they just mean, are you gonna be going to comps and using fart boxes to achieve max numbers. If you're just wanting a loud system, that plays music, I think that falls under daily driver. Obviously blaring at a sub with max power, to hit a number, is going to be harder on your sub than daily pounding... Usually SPL is tuned higher (to hit that higher frequency that shakes the car the most . Daily systems are tuned lower I think, like 28-35.

2. Any good guides? I know tons about electrical installation, wiring, and calculating; but there are lots of minute differences when it comes to amp and subwoofer installation, speakers and headunit are easy chit, but there are many factors keeping me from fully understanding the wiring and some calculations of amp-to-sub setups. So can anyone recommend any good installation guides that are detailed in the electrical perspectives? (i.e. ohmage, current, watts, etc.) I look to Crutchfield for help most of the time, but they're good in the physical installation, not the electrical and mathematics of it.

http://www.caraudiobook.com/car_audio_basi...udio_basics.htm

http://bcae1.com/

Try those sites, just found them a few nights ago though, so sorry if they're not what you're lookin for.

3. Box tuning. How is this achieved? This is one thing I can't even think of.

Good question, I believe they use a program to figure it out. I think the "tuning" is based on port length/width and area, but not exactly sure.

4. I'm not made of money, as is no one, but I'm not looking to spend well over $1000, which I know is small, especially when you're thinking Fi, most systems run you more than 1K, unless you do it yourself, which eventually I plan to. Can you suggest any other extremely good subs for a decent price? I can get most things fairly cheap through some wholesale contacts, but you never know.

Man, good luck on this one Almost everyone I know bought their first system, learned a ton, and then bought a different one. If you're one of the lucky few to pick the stuff he wants right the first time, then I applaud you. I started out at the beginning of this year with 2 audiobahn 12's, and an audiobahn amp. I currently have (3) RE XXX 12", (3) Critical Mass UL12, (1) RE HC 18", (2) RE SE 12", (2) Stereo Integrity BM 12's, (3) Sundown 1000D's, (2) Orion 2500D's, (1) Memphis 4k Mojo, (1) Memphis Belle 1300, (2) JL a4300, (2) Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4's, I'm tired of listing, got more...

This is a horrible addiction, watch out. But I think you are going a good route, getting high quality gear your first time around, but again you can do well with only 1000, if you're just talking sub amp, and subs. If you're talking everything, including wires, batteries, upgrades, etc, noway. And as for good subs, good as in what. Pure loudness? Or sounds good while getting loud? My friend has 2 kicker L7 12" that is louder than my one Critical Mass UL12 (not by much), but he heard the Cmass and would trade in a second (and he considers himself a basshead).

5. Talking strictly Fi here. Fully loaded or what? What can all the options/combinations achieve for your subwoofer? I know advanced cooling and some bass enhancers are options, but could someone faintly explain what exactly these options for the BTL offer you?

6. RMS or max? Obviously max would be the preferred option when wiring a system, but I see lots of people out there powering their system RMS when they HAVE the wattage available to power at max, and they do it for a reason, but why? Just to "not-blow" your subs seems like a pussy reason to me.

I think it's because alot of people listen to rap, where long sine wave notes are common. Plus, most people have their stuff profesionally installed, and the installers have to warranty their work. So they're gonna try to pick the amp that will most likely not blow the sub. Plus if you consider that most people turn the gains all the way up, it could turn a 1500 RMS amp into an amp that puts out the same heat as a 3000 RMS amp, when clipped. I don't know the exact math behind this I wish I did. If you know what you're doing though, most people DO suggest getting a bigger than RMS amp, so you have headroom to really learn the max of the sub yourself, without trusting the published specs which might be set low in order to prevent warranty work

7. Last one for now, for those of you that have installed systems before, is it worth it for someone that isn't as experienced to take the time to learn how to and install it himself? Or just pay the $200-$250 the chitty places around here charge you? If I do take the time to understand all this, I will be installing systems for friends, and maybe do some fiberglass and fabrication work, for a fee of course.

I ended up getting scared (as at the time I knew absolutely nothing, even less than now lol), and paying the shop to do mine. Spent alot more money, and ended up learning to do it myself anyways. But it's all relative. Bill Gates has no problem paying people to do his install for him. Someone who works hard for their money would probably do best to learn to do it himself. You might make a mistake, but you learn fastest from those anyways.

[johnecon2001 82]

woah there chief.. before you just go off on a hunt to have everyone else answer your questions, perhaps you should do some ground work of your own.

Most of what you want to know can be found via the SEARCH button. Pending you don't find the extreme technical answers that you need, http://bcae1.com/ will be what you need to read next.

[360Modworkz 0]

Thanks for all the feedback Cheesemind, I'll check out those links.

Joe