OE Integration ideas

[manbeer 0]

With a pretty significant build on the horizon now steering towards higher end equipment, i still am not ready to part with my factory head unit unless it becomes an absolute must. I prefer the OE look and like the fact that my navi and bluetooth are integrated in the setup now, although i know that with a little tweaking i could likely make them work with something different, if needs be.

On the G35 w/ the Bose system, all the processing is done at the actual factory amp. The leads running from the factory receiver are low level already and many people prefer the results with the RCA cables spliced/soldered into those leads over using an LOC. I myself initially had used a converter and was receiving a peak signal of about .3 volts with it set to the max position. In the future, i will either run the rca's directly to the leads from the receiver or purchase a decent quality "active" loc to bump up the output a bit, although i guess i would prefer to eliminate another piece of equipment from the chain if possible.

This leads me begin my search for the ideal processor. For the money and convenience i am really leaning towards the 3sixty. I like the fact that speaker level inputs are provided if i find that necessary, and for the amount of features they an be had on the cheap. Everyone seems to rave about the alpine H701 though. I guess my main questions would be:

Are they THAT great where it would be worth getting one over the 3sixty, even though i would need to buy the C701 as well to control it in my case?

Would the results be much worse than using it with a matching alpine head unit?

Also, would any of you say to just say screw it and replace my factory unit?

I am a n00b when it comes to outboard processing in cars so i would appreciate some of you guys with more SQ experience chiming in and letting me know what/what not to do. I have been holding off on doing a SERIOUS stereo upgrade cause i want to take the time to do it right, deaden everything up, make sure i can provide the current, and proper signal for good results. Thanks in advance

[///M5 2,833]

Are you going to do a 2way+ a 3way+, do you know how "flat" the output from the stock headunit is, any particular tuning capability that you need?

[manbeer 0]

From my understanding, the output of the stock Clarion receiver on the G35 is pretty damn flat, with some attenuation of the higher frequency range past 24-25ish on the volume, which i never reach anyways. I am running 3 way active in the front, i know that the 3sixty doesn't really have provisions for that so i had already planned on making sure that the 4 channel that i use for my midrange and tweeters has the crossovers to compensate for that. I know that that will eliminate the ability for time-alignment, but on every stereo that i have heard with and without back to back, i preferred the sound without it anyway. So basically i guess that i am just looking for a good EQ and X-over

Edited November 2, 2008 by manbeer

[///M5 2,833]

From my understanding, the output of the stock Clarion receiver on the G35 is pretty damn flat, with some attenuation of the higher frequency range past 24-25ish on the volume, which i never reach anyways. I am running 3 way active in the front, i know that the 3sixty doesn't really have provisions for that so i had already planned on making sure that the 4 channel that i use for my midrange and tweeters has the crossovers to compensate for that. I know that that will eliminate the ability for time-alignment, but on every stereo that i have heard with and without back to back, i preferred the sound without it anyway. So basically i guess that i am just looking for a good EQ and X-over

Not exactly trivial to setup, but definitely helps when done correctly. Of course, just because you are using an amplifier for part of the crossover doesn't mean that you cannot use t/a. You will just have to use the amp to split the drivers that you mount right next to each other so they can share a t/a setting.

Some have found the 360's to be noisy, but it would be cheaper than doing the H701. You could use the 650 as well though which might be an interesting solution.

What drivers and approximate cross points?

[manbeer 0]

For now, I will start with the seas prestige textile domes, whatever decent 3 inch mids i can find and either the Peerless SLS or Dayton Reference in 8" for midbass. I don't think i will make the jump to 4 inch mids even though they are alot easier to come by, cause i may upgrade to the Legatia Pro's down the road and don't want to cut the door larger than it needs to be for their 3.4" mid. I'll probably cross over around 200-250 and somewhere in the neighborhood of 2500 on the high end, for starters, and then play around with it. the door panels that i have actually have the midrange and the midbass right next to each other, maybe two inches away. Perhaps those would be the best to share the T.A. settings. I really liked the DEQ-230 that i had in my BMW, wish i had never sold it. That combined with an audiocontrol 4xs would make me very happy

[///M5 2,833]

Is the mid sealed off from the 8? I'd really want it to be.

[manbeer 0]

Is the mid sealed off from the 8? I'd really want it to be.

yup, originally the door panels had the mids and midbass both sealed with an enclosure made of 1/4 inch birch ply and expanding foam. I'm modifying the enclosure to fit on my doors without hacking them up so i will leave the sealed portion for the midrange in place and will run the 8" IB as per your suggestion in my other thread and numerous other info i have seen recently. That being said, i am really leaning towards the 3sixty.2 simply for the fact that it seems capable of what i want and can be had for not much more than the audiocontrol lc6 i was considering as a lineout converter anyway. at that price, if it works well then great, and if not i'm not going to be super disappointed. People seem to have mixed results with them from what i have seen, but i am willing to take the gamble for about 200 bucks

[///M5 2,833]

It should be able to do mostly what you need it to and if not of course it should be easy to sell.

[ANeonRider 3]

I've heard bad things about using the 360 with balanced inputs.

I know for a fact the H701/H650 work with balanced inputs.

Since you already have low level balanced outputs from the HU, you need a processor capable of balanced inputs, not speaker level input, as that will attenuate your signal to nearly nil.

[manbeer 0]

actually just saw the 650, it may be my best bet. I hadn'y read about the balnced input issue with the 3sixty but if that IS the case it would suck so maybe the 650 will be better choice. I also like the remote control for setup

[manbeer 0]

actually from what i just read, they seem to be just as unreliable as the 3sixty, and the user can only adjust a 3 band parametric eq? I'm looking for a bit more flexibility