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mrray13

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I always enjoyed the black wheels. I also wanted to go to painted mirrors and I have a black tool box. I do have to say I'm really enjoying the wheels when they are clean. It has re-inspired me to pull them off and seriously go at them again.

I also wanted to go +1 with the rim size so I could fit a larger brake setup in the front.

seriously... best wheel cleaner tool ever? Thick bristol crapper brush. Seriously. It works. No need to remove 'em

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you could upgrade to a more aggressive pad as well for a fairly cheap upgrade

x2

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Just throwing this out here. I'm looking to improve my braking. I checked the pads and they are fine (plenty of pad left). When my wheel bearing went out recently it tripped my ABS light. My friend said it might be from the excessive heat in the area because the wheel bearing was so bad (video below).

Should I completely replace my fluid? Does anyone know a good place to get stainless braided lines (particularly those for a lift). I also would like to do a hydroboost but not sure if I have the cash for it.

I change brake fluid about every 10K. This is the most over-looked fluid by far. I would exhaust all other options before switching to hydro-boost.

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I know when I return to AZ the truck is getting all new fluids. Good call on the break fluid Ryan. I didnt even think of that one.

J

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Just throwing this out here. I'm looking to improve my braking. I checked the pads and they are fine (plenty of pad left). When my wheel bearing went out recently it tripped my ABS light. My friend said it might be from the excessive heat in the area because the wheel bearing was so bad (video below).

Should I completely replace my fluid? Does anyone know a good place to get stainless braided lines (particularly those for a lift). I also would like to do a hydroboost but not sure if I have the cash for it.

I change brake fluid about every 10K. This is the most over-looked fluid by far. I would exhaust all other options before switching to hydro-boost.

I just changed all the fluids in the F-150 and that included brake fluid and power steering. People who work for me think I am over kill. Nice to see you think like I do.

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WVIA is replaying the parade today at 10am eastern time. I am going to burn it and try to upload it tonight for all of you.

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More flare orders, if all goes smooth I might do the car mods faster than expected :D

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More flare orders, if all goes smooth I might do the car mods faster than expected :D

Go fast mods or audio mods?

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More flare orders, if all goes smooth I might do the car mods faster than expected :D

Go fast mods or audio mods?

Not quite go-fast mods, more of an attempt to improve reliability.

Air-water intercooler from a Celica, Bilsteins up front, oil radiator.

IMG_7736.jpg

Intake manifold seems to be a bit colder to touch compared to without wrap.

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got to get a couch. I hate cheap couch shopping...

I've always gotten mine from friends. One of these days I'm going to buy a real one, getting tired of worn out couches.

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Just throwing this out here. I'm looking to improve my braking. I checked the pads and they are fine (plenty of pad left). When my wheel bearing went out recently it tripped my ABS light. My friend said it might be from the excessive heat in the area because the wheel bearing was so bad (video below).

Should I completely replace my fluid? Does anyone know a good place to get stainless braided lines (particularly those for a lift). I also would like to do a hydroboost but not sure if I have the cash for it.

My dad and I replaced my front axles this last weekend and overtightened the nut that holds the wheel bearing hub on, and it tripped my ABS light. Had to replace the bearings.

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Full story on replacing the front axles last weekend with my dad. I did the oil change first, no biggie. I use Valvoline Max Life 5w-30. It seems pretty good.

My dad surprised me when we started by saying that he had never done this before. He went to school for a while to be a diesel mechanic and has worked at his tire/automotive shop for 20 years and grew up on a farm. I figured he had. Guess not. Anyways, it's not terribly difficult anyways. We took off the brake calipers, but then were stuck about what to take off next without tearing the whole front end apart. We tried just slipping the lower ball joint bolt out, but it didn't give us quite enough reach. So we ended having to take off the upper ball joint bolt and popping that out. Then we got the hub to swing out to the side and could pull the axle out. No problem. I found out my oil seals down there were leaking, so we popped them off and ordered new ones. They came, and I grabbed one and gave it to him to put in but it was too big. Dang, so we went back to the parts shop just before they closed. They looked around for 5 minutes but couldn't figure it out, then another guy chimed in and said each side of the differential had a different size of seal. We pulled them out of the box, and sure enough, one was bigger than the other. Thanks, Ford. 15 minutes wasted. So we go back and put the correct one in, then go to put the new axle in but it gets stuck halfway in. We though it was just tight so my dad tapped on it with a rubber mallet, but it still wouldn't go. Pulled it out and found the problem. A little clip on the end was loose and had jammed up against the splines and dug in a little, pushing some metal up and out. Luckily it didn't mess them up terribly bad, we just used a metal file and filed the splines back down to even. But the clip was fubar'd, so we stole the one off of the old axle and used it. Went in just right this time. Put the front end back together and figured now that we knew what we were doing, we'd fly through the passenger side. We did in taking it off, but then putting the new oil seal in another problem occurred. The seal bent because it wasn't going in correctly. Great. Called the auto parts store, they had no more left. Luckily the other parts store in town had one left. So we got it, knowing we couldn't mess it up. Luckily it went in right. So then we put it all back together and called it good, happy to be done since it had taken us like 4 hours.

But then on my way home the front end was making weird noises. A high pitched whine, and another strange thing that sounded like gears ramping up when I came to a stop, then they slowly died down after I stopped. And my ABS light was on. Called my dad, and went over to his house to have him listen. While I was driving over he did online research and found a tutorial with big bold letters that said DO NOT TIGHTEN THE HUB NUT WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH, IT WILL RUIN THE BEARINGS. Well, guess what he had done. I thought about replacing the bearings while we had it all apart anyways, but when we took them off while replacing the axles they spun perfectly, so we figured there was no need to spend the $80 per hub. But.....now we did. Luckily the parts store was open for 20 more minutes, so we went and got some and replaced them. And yep, now there was a little resistance hitch in their turning. Pretty sure that whole job shouldn't have taken 6 hours, but that's what it did for us.

I still get a bit of that high pitched squeak, but we think that's just from the new axle seals on the inside of the hub. The tutorial said many people rub those with vasoline to stop that from happening, but we didn't. Hopefully it will wear itself in and stop.

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While I was driving over he did online research and found a tutorial with big bold letters that said DO NOT TIGHTEN THE HUB NUT WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH, IT WILL RUIN THE BEARINGS.

I learned that while changing the bearings on an MK3 Golf. And thankfully I sold a spare rear axle to somebody because his mechanic overtightened the hub nuts causing both bearings to fail :)

Glad you got to the bottom of it.

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Nick, with his experience, your father should have known better than to tighten that nut with an impact. You actually have to set a pre-load on it, by tightening to a certain amount of drag, then loosening, the tightening again and specific amount.

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I copied the parade using my dvd burner. I can not figure out how to copy this dvd to my computer so that I can upload it. Anybody willing to tell me how to do this? Do I need a program to do this?

I am not very computer smart so keep this simple.

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So Duran has a problem, I got my 9887 all hooked up, but for some reason when I try to play a CD it's turning my amplifier off, change it back to the Tuner and it turns the amplifier on again. I've searched for days for a setting that would help me out with no luck, any suggestions fellas?

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So Duran has a problem, I got my 9887 all hooked up, but for some reason when I try to play a CD it's turning my amplifier off, change it back to the Tuner and it turns the amplifier on again. I've searched for days for a setting that would help me out with no luck, any suggestions fellas?

It's telling you DURAN C.D.'S ARE FUCKING OUTDATED! USE ME WITH A IPOD/ZUNE ASS!

:werd_msword:

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I really like my 9835 / ipod combo. Goodbye cd's. I only need them for comps where cd's are mandatory :D

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For my competitions digital media is acceptable now, but I'm not buying an iPod. I'd like to retain the CD functionality in case I need it.

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Well, I've been paid for the M now but she is still in my garage. The moving company has until Friday to pick her up. Then the Silverado will get listed. Pulled out all the scratches and oxidation that occurs from sitting outside, but I want to put a final clean on the POS. Then we'll see how bad I take it in the pants on that shitbag.

Off to the lake. :)

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So Duran has a problem, I got my 9887 all hooked up, but for some reason when I try to play a CD it's turning my amplifier off, change it back to the Tuner and it turns the amplifier on again. I've searched for days for a setting that would help me out with no luck, any suggestions fellas?

That's a no-brainer. .

You hooked the power antenna lead up for the remote turn-on instead. When you switch to a source different from the tuner, it switches the antenna lead off and likewise, your amplifier. Switch the leads and you should be good. The unit should have a separate wire for amplification control.

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Your power-antenna lead is blue while the remote turn-on is blue/white.

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