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mrray13

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my sister worked in the ER for a while and trust me, you can't love your skin enough after hearing some of her experiences; there really is no way to treat road rash, other than picking out the asphalt from your gaping wounds

Motorcycle forums are flooded with the pictures. They are.... disturbing but hopefully eye-opening for some of those who don't want to wear any protection

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you know, that kind of funk...

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my sister worked in the ER for a while and trust me, you can't love your skin enough after hearing some of her experiences; there really is no way to treat road rash, other than picking out the asphalt from your gaping wounds

Motorcycle forums are flooded with the pictures. They are.... disturbing but hopefully eye-opening for some of those who don't want to wear any protection

I just avoid the fuckers; I like my climate control, radio, crumple zones and automatic transmissions :lol2:

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Brother-in-law was helping one of his family friends out, turns out the friend had a '77 Olds with 33k original miles sitting in the garage and told my BIL he would pay him to take it off his hands...I kinda laughed when I heard it but it might be a fun weekend bracket racer...but it is my brother in law we're talking about, he certainly ain't the handiest nor the most motivated person I've ever met...

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and he already has a 69 Malibu that's just been sitting and rotting forever

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I really didn't think I could be this kind of sore from pilates, yoga, running, volleyball, and some light moving over the past couple of days.

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fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem :)

%7Boption%7Dhttp://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor :suicide-santa:

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in :wavey5:

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part.

edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

drove afew miles, no change.

what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different...

assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug?

i figure i could start by replacing the plug first.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_ckp_3.8L/test_ckp_sensor_1.php

This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor.

As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.

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I really didn't think I could be this kind of sore from pilates, yoga, running, volleyball, and some light moving over the past couple of days.

It usually takes a couple weeks to condition your body to new exercises. Get through the first two weeks and it will be a whole new game.

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It's amazing how much your body can change in a year. Last year I was running 5K's no sweat.

No sense looking back though. I am where I am and I'll get to where I want to be again. I did run 1.8 miles yesterday, but I was also close to death as well....

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I really didn't think I could be this kind of sore from pilates, yoga, running, volleyball, and some light moving over the past couple of days.

It usually takes a couple weeks to condition your body to new exercises. Get through the first two weeks and it will be a whole new game.

Yoga as pussy as it seems is extremely tiring.

We did it in HS for a few weeks and it was seriously brutal. I would of rather done a lot of other stuff.

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fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem :)

%7Boption%7Dhttp://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor :suicide-santa:

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in :wavey5:

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part.

edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

drove afew miles, no change.

what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different...

assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug?

i figure i could start by replacing the plug first.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_ckp_3.8L/test_ckp_sensor_1.php

This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor.

As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.

thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that.

ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens.

edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car.

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annoying car problems TOP!

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when using WINSD how do I calculate at what size of the box the maximum mechanical handling would be?

Make sense?

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when using WINSD how do I calculate at what size of the box the maximum mechanical handling would be?

Make sense?

with the right parameters it can calculate excursion vs freq., given box volume and power

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I'm reaching mechanical limitations of the ZCON in such a large box ~7 cubes at ~35 hz

Output is fantastic, but could be louder on the same power. I do like 150's at 34 hz, but tuning higher would be good.

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Dropped below freezing tonight ... Boo ...

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when using WINSD how do I calculate at what size of the box the maximum mechanical handling would be?

Make sense?

with the right parameters it can calculate excursion vs freq., given box volume and power

That;s what I need to know, I reach limitations pretty quickly.

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Would like to be shown rather than told :P

I want to be able to calculate all of this to design my own boxes.

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I'm reaching mechanical limitations of the ZCON in such a large box ~7 cubes at ~35 hz

Output is fantastic, but could be louder on the same power. I do like 150's at 34 hz, but tuning higher would be good.

and a smaller box, to my knowledge will increase mech handling.

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freakin huntin for more and more shit...........

J

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I had a funny looking at this

My funny

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blockbuster.jpg

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