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mrray13

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So, what I've learned on my prototype model is:

1. Make them a little shorter that way I get better use outa the 4x8 sheets

2. Morel MDT29 tweets are nice

3. Need more port area, going to bump it up to 20sq in

4. Wider front baffle, and going to do a single brace through the middle of the enclosure *for the hell of it*.

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So, what I've learned on my prototype model is:

1.  Make them a little shorter that way I get better use outa the 4x8 sheets

2.  Morel MDT29 tweets are nice

3.  Need more port area, going to bump it up to 20sq in

4.  Wider front baffle, and going to do a single brace through the middle of the enclosure *for the hell of it*.

Wider baffle will help reduce funky effects from the baffle step loss...

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i might have to take you up on that offer, housing is a female dog to find late in the year

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So, what I've learned on my prototype model is:

1.

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back to assembling the fiero

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So, what I've learned on my prototype model is:

1.  Make them a little shorter that way I get better use outa the 4x8 sheets

2.  Morel MDT29 tweets are nice

3.  Need more port area, going to bump it up to 20sq in

4.  Wider front baffle, and going to do a single brace through the middle of the enclosure *for the hell of it*.

Wider baffle will help reduce funky effects from the baffle step loss...

Didn't even know that stuff existed till I got the link on CSO. I'm rereading it right now annd attempting to decide on a baffle size.

I first heard about it with Fostex drivers and mass loaded TL's...Martin King in his TL designs recommends a correction circuit, but for really low power apps it's not the best solution because the extra parts cost efficiency.

Part of why you see huuuge baffles for OB speakers, narrow ones have really unpredictable and awful response patterns.

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Now I can't decide. It appears that I want a larger baffle than what I had in mind. Its looking like I want a baffle somewhere around the 18-20" range, but I don't think that would look very good at all, 7" mids on a 20" baffle. fudge that.

Damn, decisions, decisions.

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So, what I've learned on my prototype model is:

1.

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Jim, I'm getting kinda confused by this circuitry for this...

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ahh push it

push it good

ahh push it

pust it real good

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i've been out of the dating game for so pucking long, my ego is starting to come back though

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Got the front oil seal replaced in the boat. May have to call some people and hit the river agian soon.

Gonna need to use my dads silverado though because one more try at getting that boat out of the water and my clutch is completely shot. I hope i can take it easy on it for another few weeks untill i can get it replaced.

Automatic > Manual for pulling boats up a seriously steel hill.

You just need a real truck. I used to have a straight six Ford with the granny gear and that thing would pull anything out of the water. I used to get laughed at using a 6 banger to pull a 15,000lb boat until everyone realized it has more torque and yanking power than most big diesels. Manual tranny ftw on that beyotch.

I'd like to have a straight 6. my dad's trailblazer was inline 6. it "only" made 275hp but the torque curve was flat as a board. but alas.

It wouldnt have any problems if the clutch wasnt starting to go...Im still learning how to tow so working with a bad clutch + inexperence = bad news.

45,000 miles and the clutch strarts to go. Why? The previous owner's idea of fixing the idle problem caused by the vacume leak i fixed was to ride the clutch at stop lights. Then i burned it a little mudding not too long ago. Im getting quite a bit of chadder and sometimes it doesnt like going into 2nd. Poo. :(

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And steel hills?

Damn, I knew they were developing FL...but c'mon, at least make the landscape out of something non magnetic :D:P

yeah, yall dont know nothing about that. :wacky:

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