right thing to do on electrical

[XxedgarxX 2]

i just intall my some what done system and its sounds ok no rattle at all, you guys might say wow great but there is a problem i cant crank it up i get a major voltage drop i did the big 3 already. I have a kicker kx 2500.1 on 2 15's L5 at 4 ohms with a red top under the hood and they are in a crown vic 96 i believe the alternator is 130 amps.

i have several things on mind buy another battery or buy an alternator

svr battery

http://www.svrbatteries.com/battery_page.php?bid=25

kinnetik battery

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...rksid=p3907.m29

alternator

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200-amp-Amp...itemZ7960517007

what will make it better any suggestions would be great

oh and money issues just a little got to pay a speeding ticket so i cant spend a lot

ediit: i want to be able to run the amp popperly at 2 ohms full power on a btl later on the subs came with the amp so i couldn't say no to them

Edited October 16, 2008 by XxedgarxX

[fritosaregood 0]

start with the h/o alt. i got the amputator for my accord. that alone pushed my sub so much harder. then i got two of the kinetik 1800s, my lights never dim. i havent tested the voltage with engine rev'd up yet

[helotaxi 46]

Um...no. Start with the battery upgrade. The alt is only going to help with the continuous draw. With music, your draw is nowhere near continuous. The alt would be of minimal help on the transient voltage drops. The second part of the issue is that upgrading to a HO alt without increasing storage capacity, pretty much negates any gains that you might have gotten from the alt.

Bottom line, most of the time adding a battery or two will fix most of your problems and you'll need the batteries to see any gain from an alt upgrade anyway. Do the battery.

[Enellz 2]

Um...no. Start with the battery upgrade. The alt is only going to help with the continuous draw. With music, your draw is nowhere near continuous. The alt would be of minimal help on the transient voltage drops. The second part of the issue is that upgrading to a HO alt without increasing storage capacity, pretty much negates any gains that you might have gotten from the alt.

Bottom line, most of the time adding a battery or two will fix most of your problems and you'll need the batteries to see any gain from an alt upgrade anyway. Do the battery.

x2, I believe you dont need alternators unless you really need it....

[cjosisek90 0]

The minimal amps your alternator needs to put out for a kicker2500.1 is 140amps. Your alt should do just fine till you get everything else in place before you upgrade alts.

(Friend purchased a kicker2500.1 so thats how I know. Also check your manual, it tells you that as well.)

[XxedgarxX 2]

The minimal amps your alternator needs to put out for a kicker2500.1 is 140amps. Your alt should do just fine till you get everything else in place before you upgrade alts.

(Friend purchased a kicker2500.1 so thats how I know. Also check your manual, it tells you that as well.)

thanks guys now from above are those batteries the same i mean by how much power the have inside there 100 bucks of difference but which one will do it fine

[helotaxi 46]

The minimal amps your alternator needs to put out for a kicker2500.1 is 140amps. Your alt should do just fine till you get everything else in place before you upgrade alts.

(Friend purchased a kicker2500.1 so thats how I know. Also check your manual, it tells you that as well.)

How can the amp manual tell you what size alt you need? Every car, every application is different. The current needs for every system is different. For music, the stock alt with some extra batteries should be sufficient.

[dbjunior 0]

im wondering why he is having such a problem with only 1200w i could understand if it was being run at 2ohm but the amp will be most effiecient at 4ohm plus the output is less a 130 amp alt should be fine with 1200w. what size power wire are you using and where were you voltage readings at amp or battery and what are they at idle and full tilt in both locations

[fritosaregood 0]

Um...no. Start with the battery upgrade. The alt is only going to help with the continuous draw. With music, your draw is nowhere near continuous. The alt would be of minimal help on the transient voltage drops. The second part of the issue is that upgrading to a HO alt without increasing storage capacity, pretty much negates any gains that you might have gotten from the alt.

Bottom line, most of the time adding a battery or two will fix most of your problems and you'll need the batteries to see any gain from an alt upgrade anyway. Do the battery.

ok sorry for that bad advice then, but ive always heard just addin another battery puts to much strain on the alternator. but i did the alt first and a week later addin two extra batts for mine. the extra alt alone helped mine out alot though cuz first i started with an 80 amp alt

[fritosaregood 0]

x2, I believe you dont need alternators unless you really need it....

that statement kinda makes no sense

[cjosisek90 0]

The minimal amps your alternator needs to put out for a kicker2500.1 is 140amps. Your alt should do just fine till you get everything else in place before you upgrade alts.

(Friend purchased a kicker2500.1 so thats how I know. Also check your manual, it tells you that as well.)

How can the amp manual tell you what size alt you need? Every car, every application is different. The current needs for every system is different. For music, the stock alt with some extra batteries should be sufficient.

If you look at the manual it tells you how to hook up the amp and then a picture of the alt with a box that says 140amps minimal I believe.

[XxedgarxX 2]

im wondering why he is having such a problem with only 1200w i could understand if it was being run at 2ohm but the amp will be most effiecient at 4ohm plus the output is less a 130 amp alt should be fine with 1200w. what size power wire are you using and where were you voltage readings at amp or battery and what are they at idle and full tilt in both locations

yes i know what you mean 1000 to 1200 its normal but i haven't metered but i can tell just looking at the needle in the cars gauge you see it drop like with every hit of base almost getting to L low and to what i see probably its doing below 12 when continuous bass lines but if i keep it to normal hearing just for me to hear it wont drop i runing a cheap 0 gauge wire which i say it can be size 4 with the outer plastic of 0 gauge oh and heres the wiring diagram i used http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learni..._4-ohm_mono.jpg

[dbjunior 0]

if you are having that severe of drops either something is loose or your alts on the way out. if the alt is going just get it rebuilt and have them increase its output to 180 if possible

[XxedgarxX 2]

if you are having that severe of drops either something is loose or your alts on the way out. if the alt is going just get it rebuilt and have them increase its output to 180 if possible

thanks for the info but how can i check if its going bad. i just go to an autozone and tell them to check it ?? if then if its bad where can i take it to get it rebuild sorry im new with the alt stuff never had issues with them