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emperorjj1

Grounding a Unibody

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I have a cobalt that comes with the battery in the trunk stock. It was grounded to a piece of sheet metal that was spot welded to the wheel well. I had to remove said piece to fit the 2 extra kinetik hc16v running off the second alt. Any way i have all the batteries grounded with 2/0 to one spot (sheet metal) and the amps hu and processor are also indirectly grounded to the same spot. The only thing audio wise not connected to this one spot is the second alt which is grounded in the engine bay instead. Even as such I've experienced tons of ground loop. So the past few weeks I've spent rewiring my car and doing some tricks to eliminate the ground loop. The hard work paid off because there's no longer noise with the car off (ya i know) and other then the tweeter amp (301x) there's no more alt whine.

So right now the only issues I'm having is the slight noise in the 301x (used to be louder then the music so i'm happy) and what sounds like my sub amp (saz-3000d) cutting out. Now i know the sundown isn't cutting out do to low voltage running at 16v and the only thing that half makes sense is possibly the RCA's to that amp but im pretty sure thats not the issue. So my question is do you think if i were to run another ground to the actual frame of the car that would make any difference? And any ideas on what could cause the sundown to act like its cutting out? (Works fine on the bench, has solid 2/0 wire connections, and the protect light doesn't light up at all)

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oh forgot to add... i have everything hooked up to the HU remote as is. The voltage doesn't look funny at all and is reading 13.__v at the sundown. Should i wire up a relay to the remote?

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if you got more than a couple things connected to the remote, id suggest using a relay. just because lol. nah but seriously thats how ive always done it. relays are very simple as well

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so anything 87 sees, 30 will put out. so will 87a so if not using 87a make sure you cover it because it will be live. if 87 sees ground then thats what 30 will see when switched by 12, or visa versa

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did you ground the rcas to the HU and have you checked your remote wire?

i didn't ground the rcas to the HU but since its a pioneer i fixed the "pico fuse" internally which is normally fixed by grounding the rcas at the HU. i did check the remote wire and it reads fine. Ill add a relay if necessary but voltage on the remote isnt dropping and doesnt read low at all

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oh forgot to add... i have everything hooked up to the HU remote as is. The voltage doesn't look funny at all and is reading 13.__v at the sundown. Should i wire up a relay to the remote?

13v is not a good thing if running a 16v battery you should see 17.xx V

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13v is the remote. the remote is connected to the HU which is off the 12v stock electrical. I actually have a voltage guage and it normally reads ~18v. Lowest ive seen is 15.6 or something like that for half a second with the car off and playing it for a while. I wouldnt think that wouldn't explain the cutting out but i'm open to any suggestions

Edited by EmperorJJ1

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