need some opinions for my component amp

[redfred18t 0]

Hey everyone, new member here. I was reading up on sundown amps and they seem extremely fantastic for the money.

Well anyways, I picked up a set of boston pro60 components. They are rated at 125w rms @ 3 ohm (yes, wtf is it 3 ohm?)

Now the problem is that I want to get a nice clean amp to power those components. I dont want to spend outrageous amounts of money either since I've gone WAY over budget already (blew a ton of cash on a p800prs head unit)

Now I was thinking about the 100.2 but my concern is that there is not enough power. Also for the ratings I've seen, it goes from 4 to 2 ohm. Should I just use the number in the middle of the two ratings to find out what 3 ohm would be? If so it would be 150w rms and enough for my needs but I digress. Also I heard that they are underrated but I dont want to go by e-gossip haha.

part of me was thinking of picking up a 100.4 instead, when it came out. I would bridge it but I'm not sure if it would be stable to run 3 ohm. If I could bridge it, it would definitely produce enough power (probably too much lol)

I dunno, those are my ramblings. What are your recommendations?

Thanks

[lee 2]

You're in the right ballpark with around 150wrms per channel @3ohms for the 100.2. And if that isnt loud enough.....got d**n! I think its enough but you may be different.

[JimJ 11]

(blew a ton of cash on a p800prs head unit)

So use it and go with the 4-channel amp, and not worry about the power

Would be a waste to have that head unit and run passive, IMO.

[redfred18t 0]

(blew a ton of cash on a p800prs head unit)

So use it and go with the 4-channel amp, and not worry about the power

Would be a waste to have that head unit and run passive, IMO.

one step at a time

If I ever decide to go active, I'll pick up a set of 720prs components. One step at a time tho because I've never installed a set of components before haha.

hell just doing my head unit, i probably spent 6-8 hours isntalling it to make sure everything was perfect and cleanly installed (also installed ipod adapter and hid it in the glovebox, running the wires for that probably killed the most time tho along with at least 4-5 test fits making sure everything worked and everything was hidden properly)

Edited September 23, 2008 by redfred18t

[loudcav 1]

if you think there is a good possability that in the future you would use all 4 channels get the 100.4 you can always just use 2 channels. Ive got a 100.4 in my truck powering a par of coaxs in the doors and the rear channels are bridged at 4ohms powering a pair of subs the amp gets a bit hot but I think most of it is the way Ive got it installed tho its never shut off on me. it should run cooler once I do a more perminant install

[///M5 2,833]

I'd buy the 100.4 and bridge it for now with the gains turned down. As Jim says, it would be a shame to run passive with that h/u. With a 4 channel you can step up later.

Just be sure to run two sets of speaker wire to each comp set so the future upgrade is easy.

Oh, I wouldn't buy the 720prs set for active. The tweeter isn't worth having in a set like that. Instead I'd use your Pro's and figure out what you like less the tweeter or the mid and replace that first. When it comes to that step we can provide a lot of recommendaitons on drivers.

[redfred18t 0]

well the thing that sucks is that the 100.4 only comes out in november if the preorder information doesn't change.

I dont know if I can wait that long lol. Maybe I could get the 100.2 and preorder the 100.4, then use the 100.2 as the sub amp when I get the 100.4.

Sound reasonable?

and if I bridged the 100.4 to get more power, would it be stable at 3 ohm?

Thanks

Edited September 23, 2008 by redfred18t

[///M5 2,833]

The 3 ohm question is actually a really good one. My guess is yes, but you shouldn't go by my guess. I have never measured anything on those components, but would have to assume that they don't put all that nasty of a load on anything anyways and that the 3 ohm really means that they are under 4. Hopefully Jake will pop in and give us a real answer on the amp which would alleviate that concern.

[sundownz 197]

It should work fine on a 3 ohm component set load.

[Saint211 0]

A 100.2 will get your comps loud at 3 ohm.

But I cant wait to get my hands on a 250.2.... i hope it has a crossover like the 100.4d

[redfred18t 0]

Wait, there is a 250.2 in development? 8-O

anyways, I think I will go this route then. Get the 100.2 to run my components and then also preorder the 100.4, then when I get the 100.4 in, I will get rid of my current sub amp, and use the 100.2

Its just a 10" boston g2 sub, I think max power is 300w rms @ 4 ohm so the 100.2 will have plenty of balls for that sub.

Any reason why I shouldn't use the 100.2 for the sub?

[sundownz 197]

Nope, 100.2 works very well on sub duty.

[loudcav 1]

Nope, 100.2 works very well on sub duty.

so dose the rear channels of the 100.4

[redfred18t 0]

This might sound absolutely insane, but why doesn't the 100.2 have a gain knob?

I'm just trying to get all these details sorted out of the way before I put some money on the line

thanks again guys

[NB50 206]

It does it is called the sensitivity adjustment.

[redfred18t 0]

It does it is called the sensitivity adjustment.

oh so basically the sensitivity adjustment is the gain

like that little tag says under my user name: newbie

[DeeCee 0]

The 100.2 should have ample power to run the bostons.

Overall, it won't make much difference if your amp does 100W @ 4ohm with 125W speakers, because you will never realise the full potential of either power rating for an extended period of time due to the impedance of the speaker changing with the music.

As a good rule, a 20% overhead of amp power to speaker rated power is what I generally use, but that is in rather high powered SQ systems.

[///M5 2,833]

The 100.2 has enough power sure, but again since he has an active capable headunit planning for the future and getting a 4 channel is well worth the extra investment.

[redfred18t 0]

The 100.2 should have ample power to run the bostons.

Overall, it won't make much difference if your amp does 100W @ 4ohm with 125W speakers, because you will never realise the full potential of either power rating for an extended period of time due to the impedance of the speaker changing with the music.

As a good rule, a 20% overhead of amp power to speaker rated power is what I generally use, but that is in rather high powered SQ systems.

Yeah I was looking for amps that were rated about 150-2 as it would give me more than enough overhead, but theoretically, this amp should do about 150w-2 @ 3ohm (considering it should do about 200-2 @2 ohm). Also, for the amps that I found, they were just too much bloody money. Honestly, this sundown probably had the best rating, reviews, and quality for the price (from what I've seen around diff forums)

The 100.2 has enough power sure, but again since he has an active capable headunit planning for the future and getting a 4 channel is well worth the extra investment.

I'm probably going to pre-order the 4 channel and then use the 2 channel for my sub amp, and then use the 4 channel for my components. If I want more power, I'll bridge it and if I decide to go active, I'll have the ability

Thanks again everyone!

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Nope, 100.2 works very well on sub duty.

x2

[redfred18t 0]

Ordered the 100.2 today

[DeeCee 0]

Good choice on the 2 channel

Its a very good amp which is underrated and they look hot as well

[redfred18t 0]

Good choice on the 2 channel

Its a very good amp which is underrated and they look hot as well

you got that right, my brother from down under!

[redfred18t 0]

Got my 100.2 in today

anyways, just wondering, for running my components, should I use the high pass filter? Since the components have crossovers, i just should just send the full range signal right?

btw here are some pictars

[redfred18t 0]

Ok so I was thinking about it some more and reading too.. seems I should set the high pass for around 80, but I would use my HU for the highpass and let the amp pass that full signal through to the components. If I am wrong let me know lol, I'm such a noob at this whole component game haha.