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kbkid

Active Settings Baseline

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Could someone help me out with the baseline settings to start with when running active. This is my first active set-up and all of the settings are beginning to overwhelm me. I have a somewhat understanding, but was wondering if someone could help me get in the right direction.

Vehicle: Ford Explorer

Headunit: Pioneer Premier 800PRS

Subwoofer Amp: Orion 2500D

Subwoofer: Two 12

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I would try the following

Subs from 80Hz and below

Mids 80Hz to 5500Hz

Tweets from 5500hz and up

try a mixture of 18-24dB slopes but on the sub try to have 30dB or 36dB slope as it blends from subs to the mids.

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If you can get ahold of a frequency response plot for the AA mids, then you'll have a better idea. Seas will have them on their website.

With the metal dome version of the Seas Prestige, I never liked it lower than 3khz, personally. The fabric dome might do better, though.

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I would try the following

Subs from 80Hz and below

Mids 80Hz to 5500Hz

Tweets from 5500hz and up

try a mixture of 18-24dB slopes but on the sub try to have 30dB or 36dB slope as it blends from subs to the mids.

Just to clear if up it would look something like this:

Low LPF: 80Hz

Mid HPF: 5500Hz

Mid LPF: 80Hz

High HPF: 5500hz

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you have your mid HPF and LPF switched around.

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Do you mean in the list, or my numbers?

You would think not wanting the mids to play anything lower than 80Hz, so set the LPF to 80. Or am I confused on the definition?

Also, what is different when setting the gains on a four channel amp opposed to a subwoofer one? I know I'll be using a 1khz instead of 50hz, but is that the only difference? Do I need to unhook all of the speakers and set each individual channel or are some paired together?

Am I correct in saying that:

1. My subwoofer amp will be set to 50V because that is the sqrt of 2500.

2. My four channel amp will be set to 20V because that is the sqrt of 100w*4ohms.

3. I am asking newbie questions that I should already know the answer to.

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Do you mean in the list, or my numbers?

You would think not wanting the mids to play anything lower than 80Hz, so set the LPF to 80. Or am I confused on the definition?

think of it this way LPF stands for low PASS filter. It lets frequencies below the filter freq pass through and cuts out freqs above that. If you set your LPF to 80hz and the HPF to 5500 hz for your mids, they would try to play below 80hz (exactly what you're trying to avoid) and above 5500 hz. You want the HPF set to around 80 and the LPF around 5500 for the mids.
1. My subwoofer amp will be set to 50V because that is the sqrt of 2500.

2. My four channel amp will be set to 20V because that is the sqrt of 100w*4ohms.

3. I am asking newbie questions that I should already know the answer to.

Yes. That is the max you want to set them to. Don't be afraid to dail them down from that point if, for example, the tweeters are really screaming. That's the nice thing about running active, you can level adjust things separately.

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Do I need to unhook each individual speaker lead going to the amp for the four channel or if I only do one will it set the entire amp?

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After reading, it appears I can set the tweeters gain separate from the mids.

I finished setting all of the gains and I have the settings mentioned above dialed in. There was one setting I didn't know what to do with and it was Level L and R with 0dB down to -16dB or so. I had that option for each filter. What should that be set around.

The tweeters have a slight hiss or fuzzy sound to them. I also think I have some alternator whine only when the tweeters are hooked up, is that possible?

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0dB should be fine

How did you set your tweeter gain?

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The same way I did the mids, which was playing a 1kHz tone while turning the gain knob until it got to 20V. Except I stuck the multimeter probes into the rear outputs on the amp.

The way I understood was to unplug the speakers and turn both the front gain and rear gain completely down. Insert the multimeter into the outputs on the amp and adjust it until the needed voltage is met for the front. Then do the exact same for the rear gain knob.

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Aren't they ripping your head-off being up that high? I have never "set" the gains on my tweeters, just do the mids and level match the tweeters with your ears. It should probably lessen the hissing as you will be turning down the gains.

I should have you clarify is it a hiss or does it change with the rpm of your engine?

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When I put my ear up to them, I hear a fuzzy hiss.

Additionally when I rev the engine I hear more of a whine.

So what would you suggest to eliminate the problem(s)?

A couple of questions to add on:

When adjusting the gain for the mids, should both the front left and front right read the same voltage? I set the front left to 20V and when I put it on the front right it read 23.xx. Is this normal?

I know I'm throwing a lot of questions out there at once, but maybe one question could lead to answers to other problems.

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When adjusting the gain for the mids, should both the front left and front right read the same voltage? I set the front left to 20V and when I put it on the front right it read 23.xx. Is this normal?

Get them as close as possible, preferably down to the .1v. 3v is a big difference. You want the L and R sides of your car to match in the intensity domain (ie volume).

I see no gain adjustment needed for a pair of tweeters, also. Turn it all the way down.

Determine where your HU starts to clip (if it does). Use the volume to drive to output of your system, not the gain on your amplifier. If the deck doesn't clip, run it full blast and enjoy! If you're not satisfied with the output, slowly increase the gain until you are.

Use your DMM to match the R and L sides of the car. Otherwise, trying to follow that formula will get you in trouble as it's horribly inaccurate.

Good luck!

Edited by FoxPro5

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Thanks for the help. I will turn the tweeter gain completely down.

I will also adjust the left and right mid to get them closer together.

Edit: Also should I turn all of the filters on the amp off and control them by the headunit only?

Edited by kbkid

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I'd use the h/u exclusively and not anything on the amps. (unless you are ported, then use the subsonic)

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I am running ported to I'll be sure to flip the switch for subsonic.

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Apparently the 2500D doesn't have a subsonic filter.

It also appears its more of an alternator whine and not so much a hiss from the tweeters.

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Check your grounds and make sure they are all really clean.

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