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trunks9_us

1500d question with electrical system

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Ok I am wandering will a 1500d at 1.5 ohms will put out?

I have a 100 amp denso alternator hair pin design i have heard there amps is higher then what they rate them.

I have a group 35 battery i think it is 450 cca and i wil be using a 1500d on 2 jbl gti's 12's running 1.5 ohm load.

My question is will my electrical hold up or will i need a new battery? I plan on getting a kinetik in the future when i get the money it is a brand new 2009 corolla so all i am really worried about is battery power which i can always turn down the sub bass but will i have to or will the electrical system hold up? I am using Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit and I wish i would of gotten the 0 gauge kit but i alrdy have the 4 gauge kit is money it tight. Eventually i will buy the 0 gauge kit i have been told though that the 4 gauge kit should work but need confirm from here that it will. Also i have not done the big 3 yet either got to go to the dealer to make sure it wont void my warranty. but will not have that done either when using the 1500d amp.

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you should be fine.

You might have slight dimming but do not worry as this will not cause failure to anything.

Those alts are HIGHLY efficient. I have an alt just like that and rated for 100A stock too.

I ran a 1500w amp @1ohm off stock everything and i had some dimming but never dropped below 12.5v and you will be wiring it in a way that will not even pull maximum potential out of the sundown so you have no worries.

i wish i knew what the DC resistance is of those coils because it makes me wonder if a 2ohm stable amp would be more appropriate money-wise.

I downloaded the manual but JBL didn't say....

Would you know by any chance what the RE value is of your subs?

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i would get a better battery as soon as i could and do the big three before anything else.

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i would get a better battery as soon as i could and do the big three before anything else.

yes i do agree but do you think doing the big 3 will void my warranty?

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ah Ha! That's what i needed.

So, wired in parallel, both of them would get you a 1.6 ohm load.

That's perfectly fine to run off of a 2 ohm stable amp.

I would be looking for a 1500w amp rated @2ohm. You'd get more bang for your buck.

Here is a list of some amps that you can do your own research on that will benefit you -

Alpine MRP-M2000

Kicker ZX1500.1

These amps may require you to do what bigjon said because these amps fit your application better so you'd get more power out of them than the sundown.

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ah Ha! That's what i needed.

So, wired in parallel, both of them would get you a 1.6 ohm load.

That's perfectly fine to run off of a 2 ohm stable amp.

I would be looking for a 1500w amp rated @2ohm. You'd get more bang for your buck.

Here is a list of some amps that you can do your own research on that will benefit you -

Alpine MRP-M2000

Kicker ZX1500.1

These amps may require you to do what bigjon said because these amps fit your application better so you'd get more power out of them than the sundown.

the only reason i dont want to get a 2 ohm amp is because i am worried that i might get alot of protection mode problems cause the independance changes as the music plays.

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i just looked on ebay at the kicker zx1500.1 amps there wanting 380 shipped new or i can get a used 1500d sundown for 370 shipped. What should i do? I think the sundown is better from what i heard but i still would like some opinions on this matter

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i just looked on ebay at the kicker zx1500.1 amps there wanting 380 shipped new or i can get a used 1500d sundown for 370 shipped. What should i do? I think the sundown is better from what i heard but i still would like some opinions on this matter

if you're talking from db-r, I'd go with the sundown just because you KNOW what you're getting. There's no chance you're getting anything but an authentic SAZ-1500. There are a few less-than-reputable ppl on ebay and you can really get burned....but at the same time you could score a $999 amp for under 400bucks. IMO: sundown

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i just looked on ebay at the kicker zx1500.1 amps there wanting 380 shipped new or i can get a used 1500d sundown for 370 shipped. What should i do? I think the sundown is better from what i heard but i still would like some opinions on this matter

if you're talking from db-r, I'd go with the sundown just because you KNOW what you're getting. There's no chance you're getting anything but an authentic SAZ-1500. There are a few less-than-reputable ppl on ebay and you can really get burned....but at the same time you could score a $999 amp for under 400bucks. IMO: sundown

well actually i know someone who is selling a used he says 6 month old 1500d but i could get a refurb here in tx for the same price with new heat sink and its only 60 miles from my house. So should i buy a use done or a refurb one from db-r?

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i just looked on ebay at the kicker zx1500.1 amps there wanting 380 shipped new or i can get a used 1500d sundown for 370 shipped. What should i do? I think the sundown is better from what i heard but i still would like some opinions on this matter

if you're talking from db-r, I'd go with the sundown just because you KNOW what you're getting. There's no chance you're getting anything but an authentic SAZ-1500. There are a few less-than-reputable ppl on ebay and you can really get burned....but at the same time you could score a $999 amp for under 400bucks. IMO: sundown

well actually i know someone who is selling a used he says 6 month old 1500d but i could get a refurb here in tx for the same price with new heat sink and its only 60 miles from my house. So should i buy a use done or a refurb one from db-r?

look at your options...if you trust that the guy selling the used one respects his equipment, hasn't abused his equipment, and he can prove to you that it works....why not. db-r refurb is as good as new, you know it works, and you get a warranty... your call, your amp

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where in texas buddy.

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where in texas buddy.

College Station Tx Home of the Aggies!

What about you?

Edited by trunks9_us

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san marcos.... bobcats i think......

DB-r is in texas too...

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san marcos.... bobcats i think......

DB-r is in texas too...

yea its close to houston which is only 1 hr away from me :)

hey was heat wave this weekend or last weekend i for got to take off so i am a lil ticked off.

Did you go and did i miss anything or is it the normal chit?

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db-r is close to houston?!

i didnt know that, guess i'll be making a trip sometime

heat wave, my truck club went and they said it was huge, lots of people everywhere and well.....heres a link to it where the pictures started showing

http://www.texastruckscene.com/showthread....t=29&page=7

Edited by ecromeans

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i knew i missed it oh well next yrs i guess yea db-r is in waller tx shoulnt be more then a 2-3 hr trip for you i would think.

I have really 3 jbl gti's only going to use 2 for now until i get my other car back my 03 echo and i plan on walling it off with 4 gti's 12's and i am still trying to decide to use 2 3000d or 2 1500d i think 2 3000d will work though the gti subs are rated at 700 rms but ppl say they can handle way more like 1200 rms or more and since i will run 1.5ohm load on 3000d each i think should give me both enough power for a loud system lol. on my 09 corolla i am working on a sq system with morel but just using the gti subs until i can save up for my other stuff.

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I'm telling you you are wasting money.

"the only reason i dont want to get a 2 ohm amp is because i am worried that i might get alot of protection mode problems cause the independance changes as the music plays."

Impedance... And THAT'S THE WHOLE REASON i suggested a 2ohm amp because that's what you need.

What you are about to do is like putting a single dual 4 ohm sub on a sundown.

Those GTis share the SAME DCR value as some Dual 4 ohm subs.

1.6 ohms is plenty high. I've seen 2 ohm coils read as low as 1.2 ohms and still be fine on 2 ohm stable amps.

There's nothing else to say, it's laid out for ya as simple as can be. It's your choice as to what you want.

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It's nice to see someone else on here that's from the same neck-of-thewoods as me. I wonder where in Waller db-r is?

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"waste of money" and sundown should never be used in the same sentance,...... never,.,,,,

even if hes not at 1 ohm.. a sundown amp will still put out plenty of power at 2 ohm... and he has the option of going down to .5 ohms... witch is a warrenty voider but the amp will play and play hard at a half ohm......

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well, i wouldnt suggest runnin 4 of those in a single 1500d, hehe, but the point is when people buy amps for their subs, they are trying to get the most for their money.

The sundown is rated to do around 800w @2ohms. The kicker is rated to do that at 1500w and the Alpine @2ohms is 2kw.

I'm not saying the Sundown is a waste of money, I am saying the sundown is a waste of money for THIS application in my opinion because he won't be getting full potential that he could get for the money he will spend.

Those subs are rated to take burps up to 3kw, 700wrms, 1200wrms amplifier rated according to others.

JBL states on their site that they give these subs a 100hr test at their rms rating, which is 700w to certify them as being that thermal rating.

Now, if you go with sundown, unclipped power would be babying them. You could clip the hell out of them, that would get them movin and "might not" cause damage but i do not care for the sound of excessive clipping so it all reverts back to buying an amp that fits the application, not an amp that is of just good quality.

Simply put, we should all buy Class A amps if we choose amps just by quality rather than by application but that is going overboard.

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well, i wouldnt suggest runnin 4 of those in a single 1500d, hehe, but the point is when people buy amps for their subs, they are trying to get the most for their money.

The sundown is rated to do around 800w @2ohms. The kicker is rated to do that at 1500w and the Alpine @2ohms is 2kw.

I'm not saying the Sundown is a waste of money, I am saying the sundown is a waste of money for THIS application in my opinion because he won't be getting full potential that he could get for the money he will spend.

Those subs are rated to take burps up to 3kw, 700wrms, 1200wrms amplifier rated according to others.

JBL states on their site that they give these subs a 100hr test at their rms rating, which is 700w to certify them as being that thermal rating.

Now, if you go with sundown, unclipped power would be babying them. You could clip the hell out of them, that would get them movin and "might not" cause damage but i do not care for the sound of excessive clipping so it all reverts back to buying an amp that fits the application, not an amp that is of just good quality.

Simply put, we should all buy Class A amps if we choose amps just by quality rather than by application but that is going overboard.

i went ahead and bought the sundown because i want a sundown not the other brands thats just it i want that amp. Anyways i understand where your coming from but the independence is always going to change as said would rather it be safe not to go into protection and could still use another 1500d to strap if ever needed to in the future as well. Even if i am not using full power its still atleast going to help my current situation where i am still using stock electrical and stock speakers. Anyways i am almost done with my box modify for my jbl subs just ordered the carpet and subs today both should arrive around the same time i will keep posted on updates.

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I will bet $100 that those subs never see an even 2.0 ohms or lower at any frequency.

That's just the way it is.

I'm not new to impedance curves.

And as stated before, I've seen dual 4 ohm coils rated LOWER than JBLs coils wired in parallel.

Why? Because other companies are showing nominal resistance. A resistance guaranteed not to fall below this value.

JBL has rated their coils practically at the rest value, i guess for more advanced users.

You have compared apples to oranges i'm afraid.

They clearly state the 12 uses 6.4 or 6.5 ohm coils. They could have rated these subs as dual 8 ohm. Everyone else would have i'm sure.

Just to let you know in the future-

a wired load of-

0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 works with a 1 ohm stable amp.

1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 works with a 2 ohm stable amp.

2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 3.9 works with a 4 ohm stable amp.

I left out some loads because i havent never seen those loads before but am sure they would work also since they fall in between the low and high range readings.

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I will bet $100 that those subs never see an even 2.0 ohms or lower at any frequency.

That's just the way it is.

I'm not new to impedance curves.

And as stated before, I've seen dual 4 ohm coils rated LOWER than JBLs coils wired in parallel.

Why? Because other companies are showing nominal resistance. A resistance guaranteed not to fall below this value.

JBL has rated their coils practically at the rest value, i guess for more advanced users.

You have compared apples to oranges i'm afraid.

They clearly state the 12 uses 6.4 or 6.5 ohm coils. They could have rated these subs as dual 8 ohm. Everyone else would have i'm sure.

Just to let you know in the future-

a wired load of-

0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 works with a 1 ohm stable amp.

1.2, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 works with a 2 ohm stable amp.

2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6, 3.8, 3.9 works with a 4 ohm stable amp.

I left out some loads because i havent never seen those loads before but am sure they would work also since they fall in between the low and high range readings.

see i was told that when lets say its at 1.5 ohms then it will only go lower when playing music not higher really more lower.

i was told that when the music plays the independence drops down with different notes. Was i told wrong?

Edited by trunks9_us

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oh no, impossible.

Whatever the DCR value is, the REvc spec, the active impedance will NEVER EVER EVER be at or below that value.

This is why people can run 1 ohm stable amps at 0.25 ohms.... because the resistance is so high. Now, they can't d that for music for certain frequencies may have very high rise which allows running very low loads possible because the amp is still seeing a load much higher then one expects.

If you ever want to see this in person, get a DMM and an ammeter and burp a frequency for several seconds.

Record the voltage and amperage output at the same time. Do not take peak values, take consistent output values and at the same time. Divide the amps INTO the volts to get active resistance.

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