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Enclosure design for a 10 inch BL

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I have always done sealed boxes before and I ordered a 10 inch dual 2 ohm bl and am struggling with the port dimensions. Different programs I use come up with different numbers. The recommended dimensions are 1.2 cuft with 15 inches of port. I am assuming thats 15 square inches.

I have the room for width of 16 inches wide by 13 inches tall and 19 inches deep outside dimensions. Which according to my calculations using 3/4 inch wood is 1.97 cuft. But I only need 1.2 cuft. The 13 inches is the most important measurement. I don't want to go higher or lower than that. The depth of 19 inches is what I want to shrink the most and I only want to go 15 inches wide at the narrowest. Can you guys help me out when I do the port calculations it wants a slot port 13.5 inches by one inch tall and 23.72 inches long. That doesn't seem right. I have a 1200 watts going to it. It will be a daily driver not looking for spl just good clean sounding bass.

Thanks

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What is this going in? Which way do you want the sub and port to face? Just curious, since your port width does not follow any of your exterior dimensions.

With 3/4" wood, you have 14,5 x 11.5 x 17.5 = 1.69 ft^3 gross airspace.

By the time you subtract driver and port displacement, you will not net 1.2 ft^3, unless you get the tuning frequency up.

I would build to your max dimensions. Assuming the port and sub are on the 16 x 13 side of the box, make the port 11.5 x 1.5. Run it into the box so it is 1.5" from the back wall, and then run it along the back wall until it is 1.5" from the opposite side wall. Comes out to around 1.13 ft^3 tuned near 34 Hz. Should work pretty good.

Brian

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Its going into a ford f150. I was going to have both the sub and port firing forward on the 13X16 side. You are right about the port dimensions not lining up I have been playing around with different dimensions and posted the wrong dimensions.

So the port will be the width of the internal volume of and 1.5 inches of airspace tall and then route that through the box in an "L" shape until it is 1.5 inches from the bottom of the box is that correct? How long would the port be then?

Is that a good setup. I do have a little area to play with. The max size I posted was Ideal but I could go a few inches bigger just cant do any more than the 16 inches. I am removing the rear center console and replacing it with my sub. I wanted it to be when the seats are folded down the seats would be flush with the top of the box but I could fudge it a little.

Thanks again.

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What is this going in? Which way do you want the sub and port to face? Just curious, since your port width does not follow any of your exterior dimensions.

With 3/4" wood, you have 14,5 x 11.5 x 17.5 = 1.69 ft^3 gross airspace.

By the time you subtract driver and port displacement, you will not net 1.2 ft^3, unless you get the tuning frequency up.

I would build to your max dimensions. Assuming the port and sub are on the 16 x 13 side of the box, make the port 11.5 x 1.5. Run it into the box so it is 1.5" from the back wall, and then run it along the back wall until it is 1.5" from the opposite side wall. Comes out to around 1.13 ft^3 tuned near 34 Hz. Should work pretty good.

Brian

I have a question on this. When I use the equation on JL's site for a slotted port, I get a shorter port if I use a smaller Height. So for a slotted port is it smarter to use the whole side, or just use a smaller slot on that side?

For instance if he put in a 2" Width x 6" Height port, tuning to 32 Hz would be achieved at 15" depth. Correct?

If so, and there are no negative port noise effects, I'd rather put this in mine than a snakey port.

P.S. I'm trying to build my box also and still in the research stages. Stumped on the port.

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Is this what you're looking for? It's 1.3 internal (1.2 after sub displacement) tuned to 32Hz with 15 square inches of port.

10bl.jpg

10bl2.jpg

10bl3.jpg

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