Another 2nd batt question

[y_d0c 0]

with 3500w, 200a alty, and a yellow top under the hood, what size would one suggest for the kinetik in the back.... or how many....

also with this question, how big of an isolator will i need?

much appreciated

[jonbearsmt 919]

with 3500w, 200a alty, and a yellow top under the hood, what size would one suggest for the kinetik in the back.... or how many....

also with this question, how big of an isolator will i need?

much appreciated

i dont promote issolators what kinda 3500 watt amp are you talkin

[shizzzon 461]

Well, let's see.

3,500w of real power, let's say 350A worth of fusing.

200A alt is only gonna be able to supply about 150A max for the stereo which should be at a minimum of 175A so your alt isn't big enough for a normal setup, i'll get back to that in a minute.

i don't know what the aH rating is of the Optima yso i'll just say it's 48aH.

This has nothing to do with your stereo system though so let's get back there...

You have a 200A alt, so you will need 1 200A Battery solenoid.

Now for your batteries in the rear-

you want Kinetik, here are your choices-

setup 1- (highly suggested)

1 HC2400

1HC1400

setup 2- (highly suggested if you have more than 2 amps)

3 HC1400s

You will NEED an isolator in between each battery as well. if you do not, then the batteries in the rear will start to drain them self over time.

A single HC2400 is not large enough for 350A worth of fusing.

And back to the alt-

Because your alt is not large enough, I am recommending that you purchase a remote volt meter so you can monitor the voltage of the batts in the rear. Just one meter on one battery is fine.

If the voltage dips below 12.0v at a more consistent level while driving, turn the stereo down and allow the alternator to charge everything back up.

Remember, do not let the batts discharge too much!

The longer they are discharged without a charge, the longer the alt will work to charge em back up.

[y_d0c 0]

lets just make it an even f'n 4000w....2 hifonics bxi2008d.......pushin two 12 orion hcca

im sure someone will jump on here and recommend another amp, but, those amps are reasonably priced and have relativley high output...so lets just stick with these two amps for now....

if anyone can find 2 other amps for the same price but better, i will be more than happy to change my mind..

btw they're priced at $340 as of now...

[y_d0c 0]

the suggestions you posted are just the batteries for the back, correct?

[y_d0c 0]

with 3500w, 200a alty, and a yellow top under the hood, what size would one suggest for the kinetik in the back.... or how many....

also with this question, how big of an isolator will i need?

much appreciated

i dont promote issolators what kinda 3500 watt amp are you talkin

you dont promote them? but i NEED them..???????

[y_d0c 0]

with 3500w, 200a alty, and a yellow top under the hood, what size would one suggest for the kinetik in the back.... or how many....

also with this question, how big of an isolator will i need?

much appreciated

i dont promote issolators what kinda 3500 watt amp are you talkin

you dont promote them? but i NEED them..???????

disregard, i didnt realize two different people posted on here.......

[shizzzon 461]

don't go UP!

You already have an electrical system deficiency, so why mention if you were to add more power?

[vladd 26]

also keep in mind that if you're set on those amps you won't get that much power, they are underrated.

[y_d0c 0]

don't go UP!

You already have an electrical system deficiency, so why mention if you were to add more power?

uhh to be safe....

also, with those two kinetiks being different models wont they end up discharging one another...

[y_d0c 0]

also keep in mind that if you're set on those amps you won't get that much power, they are underrated.

this is what ive been told, ive heard around 10%

[shizzzon 461]

no battery is alike....

you can buy 1,000 hc2400s and every single one of them is slightly different.

I've been on the phone with 3 different companies about this not too long ago and they all say the same thing.. pretty odd coincidence don't you think?

IT doesn't matter if the batts are different or the same, you still need isolators between each batt for daily use because they will be wired in parallel. They will share everything and what the isolator will do is prevent them from sharing when not in use.

When the car is on, the stereo equipment steals from all batts so it doesnt matter and the alt charges all batts so it's fine. You do not want the batts sharing their charge levels together when not in use. That's how batts prematurely fail over time.

Why did i buy 4 200A isolators? I'm not made of money, it's just for the best of the install.

[dsgfierce1 0]

also keep in mind that if you're set on those amps you won't get that much power, they are underrated.

he means over rated

[y_d0c 0]

gotcha..

[y_d0c 0]

couple more questions...

whats the easiest way to enclose the extra batteries?

what types of iso have a control wire to the ignition...?

[shizzzon 461]

Enclose batteries?

You mean secure them?

Contact Kinetik and ask if they have anything for their batts.

If they don't, just make something...

Battery strap, a case going around them, anything that can be screwed down.

And all isolators are virtually the same... 2 switching points, 1 ground, 1 turn on terminal.

[y_d0c 0]

Enclose batteries?

You mean secure them?

Contact Kinetik and ask if they have anything for their batts.

If they don't, just make something...

Battery strap, a case going around them, anything that can be screwed down.

And all isolators are virtually the same... 2 switching points, 1 ground, 1 turn on terminal.

good chit, all the helps much appreciated...

[dsgfierce1 0]

POWERMASTER D3100 FTW!

[johnecon2001 82]

lol @ NEEEEEED ISOLATOR OMFG!!!

You don't need an isolator. Thousands of people run without them and have no premature battery failures. In all my time in car audio I've never run an isolator not heard of people running FOUR of them.

The only time you ever need an isolator is if you want to run your system with the car off and don't want to drain the front battery. The isolator simply switches a solenoid so that the front and rear have no connection with each other. When the car is on, the alt can still charge both.

[shizzzon 461]

no. That's what i was told until i did research and talked to a few companies about it as well.

When i seen Stinger's recommendation... i had to call them and ask why?

They show a picture of 3 batts, with an isolator between each one of the batts.

While it may be suggested to use them if you play with the car off... when the car is on, the EXACT same scenario will happen if your alternator is not strong enough to supply power... it will pull from the front battery.

They are to isolate batteries.

So isolating each batt individually in the rear will allow them to last longer.

If you have batt A, B and C in your car, lets say Batt A and C are draining quicker than batt B.

if u had no isolator on them, then part of Batt B would level Batt A and C out because nothing is isolating them.

There isn't a perfect current draw from each battery and leave each battery at the exact same level.. it just doesn't happen.

I'll give you a real good example!

I am a fork lift driver.

Every week, we check the water levels in the cells of the batts.

All cells work at the same time and only at the same time, BUT some cells are drained while others are still full...

How? Because not all batts are made the exact same.

But why is their no isolator in between each batt in the fork lift?

Well, besides being impractical, hehe, the fork lift charger has a "Leveling" setting on it so it can properly balance the charge of all the cells rather than just charge the cells... which would leave some cells uncharged completely. If they were isolated from each other, that setting on the charger would be pointless.

And i have 4 because-

i have 3 batts in the rear, so 2 isolators there, then i have 2 more wired in parallel between front and rear batt bank... Why?

Because 1 200A isn't a large enough switch for the charging current i will have and would end up burning up the isolator as what happened to Big Jon in my post about isolators.

Plus it was recommended by all 3 companies i talked to as well just to see how consistent their knowledge is, it's the same, hehe.

You can run batts without an isolator... but they will not be to their full charge potential in the long run.

You might, i dont know this for sure, be able to get agm battery chargers with leveling capabilities on them but i dont know as i've never bought them before. IT's a hassle though to charge your batts in your car because your alt cant do it properly.

[johnecon2001 82]

You do realize your losing almost a full volt when you put an isolator in right? Imagine what happens with 4.

And to your point of a weak alt not being able to charge correctly.. total hogwash. And the OP has a 200a alternator.

Your research is going against EVERYONE that runs multiple batteries. I sincerely doubt you're right.

[shizzzon 461]

i'm not referring to an isolator... Solenoid is what i am referring too.

RELAY, Solenoid, i do not suggest anyone use an isolator.

I'm leaving this alone, v doc has a book to read and decide...

This info came from Stinger, Pac Audio and a local auto sound shop that competes in MECA certified comps that take 1st in something every year...

The information is valid enough.

[johnecon2001 82]

i'm not referring to an isolator... Solenoid is what i am referring too.

RELAY, Solenoid, i do not suggest anyone use an isolator.

I'm leaving this alone, v doc has a book to read and decide...

This info came from Stinger, Pac Audio and a local auto sound shop that competes in MECA certified comps that take 1st in something every year...

The information is valid enough.

Find me actual competitors with proven track records that consistantly beat everyone else (the people who don't use solenoids, isolators, relays etc).

[shizzzon 461]

i cant.

Because it's not necessary for competitors.

This info is for long term install. Strictly for daily driving, to prolong the life of the batteries.

Of course it isn't necessary to prolong the life of the batts for competitors who only use them for a few seconds every other week.

Besides, you also gotta look at it like this- people who have oh lets say 30 batteries in their ride.

It's too time consuming to ensure EVERY battery is functioning properly...

Who cares if one batt dies.. it's not gonna hurt with that many batts.

I am almost willing to bet that it's happened before and the owner didnt know it.

It's pointless really for competitors.

End result, it's for long term reliability.

[dsgfierce1 0]

i cant.

Because it's not necessary for competitors.

This info is for long term install. Strictly for daily driving, to prolong the life of the batteries.

Of course it isn't necessary to prolong the life of the batts for competitors who only use them for a few seconds every other week.

Besides, you also gotta look at it like this- people who have oh lets say 30 batteries in their ride.

It's too time consuming to ensure EVERY battery is functioning properly...

Who cares if one batt dies.. it's not gonna hurt with that many batts.

I am almost willing to bet that it's happened before and the owner didnt know it.

It's pointless really for competitors.

End result, it's for long term reliability.

i vote noooooo isolator!