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TwStDeVo

Need help with box design for 2 10" Icons for a trunk of an evo

box set up  

15 members have voted

  1. 1. which is best?

    • Fire towards cabin with port firing same way
      4
    • Fire towards rear and port same way
      8
    • Fire towards rear and port towards rear deck speaker hole
      2
    • Other
      1


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i just purchased 2 10" icons for my 2003 mitsu evo 8. i need help with the best box design for my trunk. im looking for the loudest set up i can get. so far im thinking about firing them towards the cabin and have the port fire the same way in a 3cf box tuned to 32hz. there is only a metal cross brace between the seat and trunk. other options are to fire them towards the back and have the port the same way, but i want a custom install so it would be walled off, not sure if this would hurt sound. finally, i was thinking about firing them back and have the ports on top firing through my rear deck speaker holes (i removed my rear deck speakers) and create a kind of bandpass box. definitely need help as soon as possible as my car is currently at a stereo shop having alot of work done. if you choose "other" in the poll, please post what you recommend. thanks!

here is what my trunk looks like right now, going to be removing everything for the install but just wanted to give you guys an idea.

http://public.fotki.com/twstdevo/evo/dscn0442.html

http://public.fotki.com/twstdevo/evo/dscn0444.html

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If you are worried about sheer output, I would face and fire into cabin and seal off the area around the box. But set them back so there is no chance of hitting anything during play.

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If you are worried about sheer output, I would face and fire into cabin and seal off the area around the box.

this is what the shop thats doing the install wants to do, but it just didnt seem right firing them towards the cabin and have the port the same way since my back seat would be in the way. didnt know if the port needs alot of space since there would only be like a couple of inches from it and the blockage. the center section would be ok since only the foam rear seat blocks the subs but the sides have metal from the car, although there are holes through it.

also, what should the box specs be? im thinking 3cf tuned to 32hz.

Edited by TwStDeVo

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If you are worried about sheer output, I would face and fire into cabin and seal off the area around the box.

this is what the shop thats doing the install wants to do, but it just didnt seem right firing them towards the cabin and have the port the same way since my back seat would be in the way. didnt know if the port needs alot of space since there would only be like a couple of inches from it and the blockage. the center section would be ok since only the foam rear seat blocks the subs but the sides have metal from the car, although there are holes through it.

also, what should the box specs be? im thinking 3cf tuned to 32hz.

I would port up, honestly.

Use a product called aero-ports.

http://psp-inc.com/

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i just purchased 2 10" icons for my 2003 mitsu evo 8. i need help with the best box design for my trunk. im looking for the loudest set up i can get. so far im thinking about firing them towards the cabin and have the port fire the same way in a 3cf box tuned to 32hz. there is only a metal cross brace between the seat and trunk. other options are to fire them towards the back and have the port the same way, but i want a custom install so it would be walled off, not sure if this would hurt sound. finally, i was thinking about firing them back and have the ports on top firing through my rear deck speaker holes (i removed my rear deck speakers) and create a kind of bandpass box. definitely need help as soon as possible as my car is currently at a stereo shop having alot of work done. if you choose "other" in the poll, please post what you recommend. thanks!

here is what my trunk looks like right now, going to be removing everything for the install but just wanted to give you guys an idea.

http://public.fotki.com/twstdevo/evo/dscn0442.html

http://public.fotki.com/twstdevo/evo/dscn0444.html

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tune to 28hz, port up through rear deck seal port, then fire sub facing the front (cabin, and seal correctly)

accurate and sealed = louder cleaner

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tune to 28hz, port up through rear deck seal port, then fire sub facing the front (cabin, and seal correctly)

accurate and sealed = louder cleaner

this is what i was thinking, what do u mean by seal port and seal sub? i dont think i would need to have the port go all the way up through the rear deck but just face it on top of the box. the guy building my box is going to create it tomorrow, so i need to finalize it asap.

firing the port towards the cabin would be a bad idea? also, ssa recommends tuning it to 32hz, any negative effect trying to tune to 28hz? i dont have any experience building boxes so sorry if i ask basic questions.

Edited by TwStDeVo

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I replied in your other thread saying to point both into the cabin if you are worried about output. If output is not paramount, fire both rearward and deaden the trunk.

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there really isn't a downside to tuning 4 hz lower if you are running an efficient box. A lower tuning will strengthen the bottom end and has less peaks. It will however roll off sooner (Which you will be fine b/c a lot of component sets crossover @ 63 hz 12/dB slopes anyways.)

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The difference between 28 and 32hz in a car will be minimal do to cabin gain. You will get a little more output with 32hz, and have a slightly flatter response with 28hz. I have my Icon at 27hz, but that is my preference. We suggest 30-32hz because it is a nice balance of flat response and output with out losing any bottom end or clarity.

Listen to audio-neon, he knows trunk cars better then I do, so port up might be the best solution. And 3 cubes, would be great for box size for the Icon's.

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there really isn't a downside to tuning 4 hz lower if you are running an efficient box. A lower tuning will strengthen the bottom end and has less peaks. It will however roll off sooner (Which you will be fine b/c a lot of component sets crossover @ 63 hz 12/dB slopes anyways.)

well the reason for tuning at 32hz is because i asked mark (ssa) and he said 3cf tuned to 32hz would be best. i figured this frequency is what they found to be best for the size of the box. i dont think i can port up as im going to make the box removable, so the ports cant go all the way to the rear deck. if its possible to have them go up just to the top of the box, then this is possible. also, is it best to have the subs and port facing the same way? do you really think it would be bad to face the subs and port towards the cabin? and if its possible to have the port just go up to the top of the box, which way would be best to face the subs, front or back?

Edited by TwStDeVo

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If you want to get really technical, it helps a little to have both firing in the same direction, but from what I understand, that really only applies if the port waves are in sync with the cone waves. But I could be off or forgetting something there.

But probably for the safety of the drivers, fire them forward so you can still have stuff in your trunk and not worry about the cones hitting anything. Pending they are not too close to the back of the rear seat or the metal support you mentioned earlier.

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If you want to get really technical, it helps a little to have both firing in the same direction, but from what I understand, that really only applies if the port waves are in sync with the cone waves. But I could be off or forgetting something there.

But probably for the safety of the drivers, fire them forward so you can still have stuff in your trunk and not worry about the cones hitting anything. Pending they are not too close to the back of the rear seat or the metal support you mentioned earlier.

the subs would probably sit about 3 inches or so from the brace/trunk wall

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When I sealed off my trunk I ran port forward subs forward, but I was competing in spl and always had my seats down. It was noticeably quieter with the seats up, and the box's tuning got wacky b/c it was using the seat back as more port wall.

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When I sealed off my trunk I ran port forward subs forward, but I was competing in spl and always had my seats down. It was noticeably quieter with the seats up, and the box's tuning got wacky b/c it was using the seat back as more port wall.

well i got about 35in wide and maybe 15in in height to work with. do you think i can port up and not have to go higher than the box into my rear speaker holes?

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When I sealed off my trunk I ran port forward subs forward, but I was competing in spl and always had my seats down. It was noticeably quieter with the seats up, and the box's tuning got wacky b/c it was using the seat back as more port wall.

well i got about 35in wide and maybe 15in in height to work with. do you think i can port up and not have to go higher than the box into my rear speaker holes?

You should have plenty of room to do a slot port up. With a 3" gap. I wouldn't port forward.

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When I sealed off my trunk I ran port forward subs forward, but I was competing in spl and always had my seats down. It was noticeably quieter with the seats up, and the box's tuning got wacky b/c it was using the seat back as more port wall.

well i got about 35in wide and maybe 15in in height to work with. do you think i can port up and not have to go higher than the box into my rear speaker holes?

You should have plenty of room to do a slot port up. With a 3" gap. I wouldn't port forward.

by 3" gap do you mean 3 inches wide for the port? also my rear deck speaker holes are for 6.5" speakers, so would a slot port still work or would a round port be better? do i need 2 ports? what should the port length be?

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I don't have winisd on this computer. Give me a minute to do the math.

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If you were to do two round ports, they would be 3" in diameter and 13" in length. You don't have the depth for 4" ports.

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If you were to do two round ports, they would be 3" in diameter and 13" in length. You don't have the depth for 4" ports.

does this mean that the box would atleast have to be 15in in height? im trying to make it so i can still try to get the box out of the car and make it removable.

Edited by TwStDeVo

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If you are sealing off behind the box, it won't be removable.

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If you are sealing off behind the box, it won't be removable.

well what i meant by sealing off is that making a trim panel around the box to kind of make a wall, i cant totally seal it off due to the trunk hinges so i would have to cut around those. the panel would be kind of thin and velcroed or something so it can be removed. not sure if ive exlpained it well.

Edited by TwStDeVo

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If it is for appearances, then that sounds ok. But audio-neon is trying to help you keep all the sound in towards the cabin, so if the false panel is there, and not snug it could leak air back and make things a little funky like he said before.

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If it is for appearances, then that sounds ok. But audio-neon is trying to help you keep all the sound in towards the cabin, so if the false panel is there, and not snug it could leak air back and make things a little funky like he said before.

it would be for just appearance as there is no way for me to totally seal it due to the trunk hinges, the panel will be very snug with the exception of the slots cut out for the trunk hinges to go through. it would just be for looks. so with this, i should definitely try to port up towards the rear deck speaker holes and have the subs facing the cabin?

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