Bridging my 100.4

[01 S 10 0]

In the manual, it shows it can be bridged to drive 2 subwoofers, but i want to just bridge it to power my Phoenix Gold RSD comps... If I bridge channels 1 & 2, 3 & 4, how would I connect my RCA's if I am only using the "front" outputs on my HU. Do I need a 1 female to 2 male splitter? to drive 1 & 3 left and 2 & 4 right? im a little confused at this point... thanks in advance for any help.

Cody

Edited May 5, 2008 by 01 S 10

[Big E 4]

In the manual, it shows it can be bridged to drive 2 subwoofers, but i want to just bridge it to power my Phoenix Gold RSD comps... If I bridge channels 1 & 2, 3 & 4, how would I connect my RCA's if I am only using the "front" outputs on my HU. Do I need a 1 female to 2 male splitter? to drive 1 & 3 left and 2 & 4 right? im a little confused at this point... thanks in advance for any help.

Cody

Why would you bridge the channels? Just use channels one and two and ignore three and four. You don't need more than 100 watts per side.

Unless you mean you want to run actively, with one speaker on each channel. If that's the case, then you put your tweeters on channels one and two, and put your mids on three and four. As far as the RCAs, I'm not sure; I've never worked with a 4 channel amp.

Edited May 5, 2008 by Big E

[01 S 10 0]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

[sundownz 197]

Active would be a nice options

If you bridge it passive just use y-splitters.

[01 S 10 0]

Active would be a nice options

If you bridge it passive just use y-splitters.

ok, thats what I was thinking. Would i split the signal between them vertically on the rca's or horizontally? on the side of the amp.

Edited May 5, 2008 by 01 S 10

[Big E 4]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

[01 S 10 0]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. From the adjustments I see on the amp, I shouldnt need any other processing equipment should I?

[Big E 4]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some.

Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

[01 S 10 0]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some.

Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel

If I run it active, I'll just lower the gain on the channels that the tweeters are connected to i guess

Edited May 5, 2008 by 01 S 10

[Big E 4]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some.

Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel

No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover.

[atsaubrey 1]

Active would be a nice options

If you bridge it passive just use y-splitters.

Definately go active, I had mine bridged on Zapco Reference comps and once I went active it was a night and day difference.

[the727kid 1]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some.

Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel

No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover.

Running a speaker passive off 100watts and active off 100watts (its own channel), is a big difference. The passive xover will asborb a lot of that power and the tweeter won't see nearly 100watts, but running it active it will see all 100watts. Unless of course he is talking about bi-amping it.

Edited May 6, 2008 by The727Kid

[JimJ 11]

Guess what, if I could find a 3kW monoblock that had an extended frequency response I could run it on a tweeter all day long if I wanted to.

Just because there's "100W" available on one channel doesn't mean you have to send all 100W to the driver...

Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

Well, L-pads exempted...

[MKader17 332]

You have the capability with your amp just run them active. And I have a great idea.... you could turn your gains down on channels 1 and 2 so your not sending them 100W a piece... All your going to need to run active is an extra set or RCA's ( Really if all your processing is done at the Amp then you could invest in two splitters and it would be fine)

[helotaxi 46]

That is how I have it now, but to get more power is it possible? or should i run active?

Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.

I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some.

Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.

If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel

No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover.

Running a speaker passive off 100watts and active off 100watts (its own channel), is a big difference. The passive xover will asborb a lot of that power and the tweeter won't see nearly 100watts, but running it active it will see all 100watts. Unless of course he is talking about bi-amping it.

The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet.

[SUNDOWN/FI BEATIN 0]

i had a set of lanzar DCT "cheap 1'' tweets" with my gains set very high.. about 90 to 100 watts.. and ran them every day.. LOUD.. but then again i could set my crossover slopes really hard on my frequency range with my 360.2..

[the727kid 1]

The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet.

Evidence? First hand experience has shown me otherwise.

[atsaubrey 1]

The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet.

Evidence? First hand experience has shown me otherwise.

First off, on music, that tweet will very very seldom see a true 100wrms for more than a split second. Now if you want to bring up the facts, yes a test tone at 100wrms could potentially damage the driver. Who the reck listens to test tones? I typically run 2-3 times as much power on my drivers than they are rated for. I have yet to this day lost one because of power. Let me rephrase 2-3 times on my mids and tweets, I personally think 6000wrms (I have 1000wrms subs)on subs is rediculous for anything more than competition. If you don't clip your amps, set your gains correctly, and KNOW WHAT YOUR LISTENING TO, you should have now issues running "100wrms" on a set of tweets.

[the727kid 1]

The crossover causes very little power loss unless there is an attenuation circuit on the tweet.

Evidence? First hand experience has shown me otherwise.

First off, on music, that tweet will very very seldom see a true 100wrms for more than a split second. Now if you want to bring up the facts, yes a test tone at 100wrms could potentially damage the driver. Who the reck listens to test tones? I typically run 2-3 times as much power on my drivers than they are rated for. I have yet to this day lost one because of power. Let me rephrase 2-3 times on my mids and tweets, I personally think 6000wrms (I have 1000wrms subs)on subs is rediculous for anything more than competition. If you don't clip your amps, set your gains correctly, and KNOW WHAT YOUR LISTENING TO, you should have now issues running "100wrms" on a set of tweets.

What? That is completely off subject lol. I want evidence proving that a speaker on a passive xover sees nearly the same amount as a speaker ran active.

[helotaxi 46]

Actually knowing what the crossover does and how it works, tells you all that you need to know. The least efficient point in a 2 way passive crossover is right at the crossover point. Total losses there are on the order of only a couple percent. The farther you get from the crossover point in either direction, the less loss you have. Once you are about 3 octaves from the -3dB point you're looking at 99% efficiency, about the same losses you get from a couple feet of speaker wire. This is of course assuming a well made crossover.

You want proof, get a 10k test tone and a 1k test tone. Play each through the system and measure the voltage before and after the crossover.