ShiZZZoN's Build Log

[shizzzon 461]

Yes, i almost forgot about this...

But before you get too carried away, you better not use my oh so popular build log to attract attention to your setup, hehe.

No, but i have high expectations for his upcoming setup.

2 10" FI SSDs off of a single IA 20.1 in a trunk car.

He wanted to be able to just break a 140. I'm gonna see if this baby can break a 143. Crossin my fingers...

[seanbw 1]

yo shiz, what made you decide on the ssd's besides weight? i think there's a lot of woofers in that class/price range that have more excursion, higher sensitivity and power handling that should still sound pretty good. have you looked at the RE SX's, pap WMD's, ixl's, etc? for some reason i have an uneasy feeling about 4 ssd's and 7kw

[shizzzon 461]

I'm completely open to alternate sub choices if u think u may have found somethin that fits my range.

Here is all the main points i am looking at-

Must be 4 15s.

Must be either dual 1 or dual 4.

Must be no heavier than ~26lbs per sub.

Must fall into a particular price range as well. Why? Because this project, this "upgrade" isn't really costin me hardly anything because of everything i am selling.

I'm wanting to spend no more than $1,000 on subs TOTAL, that includes shipping.

So, let me look at your choices you presented-

RE SX - too expensive. Gonna be over $1,300 for all 4 of them.

WMD - too expensive. Gonna be over $1,200 for all 4 of them.

iXL- Incorrect impedance configuration.

The only other set that i found that came close to the SSDs were MMats P3.0 15s but i would have to pay close to $1,200 for all 4 and i'm not doin that.

I also had an eye on Treo SSis but they have WAY too much mass to them and would be a bad choice for competition.

[shizzzon 461]

New box design-

Here is a pic of the upcoming design in a Scion tC, yes that itty bitty Scion tC. This should yield some numbers!

The pic isn't drawn to scale 100% yet as i may add a couple more inches but this is what it will look like regardless-

This image is showing the use of a wall with 4 15" DC Sound Lab Level 3s powered by 2 AQ3500ds.

The port you see is 100% swappable.

When no port is installed, the wall is 15-16 cubes NET and tuned to peak at 60hz, which is EXACTLY what my car peaks at with a simulated wall in my car.

When there is a port installed, the wall is 12-13 cubes NET tuned to 32hz.

For competition use, there is approximately 210sqin of port available.

For daily use, there is approximately 145sqin of port available.

The front of the box will be double baffled. The rear internal baffle that goes around the port opening extends INTO the port opening all the way around at 0.75". This allows a mounting point to install the port for music. This mounting point will have thread-locked reversed bolts sticking out of it for quick port assembly. Just slide music port through the bolts, slide the rectangular steel clamp(which acts as a "God washer") through the bolts then nut the suckers on there.

On the inside of the box, there will be some sort of rubber stripping going all the way around the port opening so when the musical port is adapted to the box, there will not be any air leaks around the port base.

This wall will actually start to begin not too long from now! I have to do some more finalizing on drawing graphics to the wall and how i'm going to build this sucker without getting into a jam... After i do that and order all my paint, building will begin.

[slim2fattycake 85]

nice. that port is huge. Your building that inside the car right? Or are you going to build in three pieces? Thats going to be loud. It sounds like the most versatile is the SSDs.

[shizzzon 461]

Nope, it's not gonna be in pieces, it's gonna be built like a normal box.

[shizzzon 461]

Well, while people is readin, guess i'll post a small update-

Got all the rear seats out. Had to rewire some wires that the local shop had wrapped through the seats for the car alarm.

Was able to measure the rest of the area for the upcoming wall. It looks NICE!

Real volume is as follows-

15.5 Cubes NET for competition tuned to 54hz, burp at 60hz. over 215sqin of port.

Now that the measurements have been confirmed... I have to contact my local Lowes and ask them a couple questions before i start buying all this equipment.

Once i get all the wood in, building will begin.

Expect this wall to take approximately 1-2 weeks to complete.. There is a LOT of dry time in what i'll be using. Pics to come once building has commenced.

And Rusty at DC will be getting an order request somewhat soon as well.

[shizzzon 461]

Here is some more designing before i start the build...

I was actually gonna start it today but the temperature dropped over 20 degrees in one day here so i'll try and get it started tomorrow.

Here are 2 pictures. After looking at them, read below to understand what u are viewing because this is how the box will be braced.

OK, the first image showing a gray X on the side of the box with black lines going the whole width of the box.

The black lines are All-Thread rods, 3\4" thick. They will run the whole width of the box, 4 runs as you can see. The X image will also be on both sides of the box as well. What is the X? The X is made up of Steel bars. One steel bar will be on the inside and the other one will be on the outside of the box. This will allow the entire wall to be solid rather than just relying on the All-Thread points to disperse it's strength enough to do the same.

If you look at the 2nd pic, you notice a red vertical image, this is suppose to be 2x4. There is actually 2 of these per side of the box. Since the large port is in the way, i can't run my 5th and 6th run of All-thread from side to side so i gotta do a little different bracing-

I run 2 2x4s on each side ran right down in between subs. The 5th and 6th run of All-Thread will run into the 2x4 and be connected at this point. This way the 2x4s brace the top, bottom and entire left and ride side of the box. The back part of the box will be braced with easier methods.

The smaller circles shown in the pics that show the 4 15s is the Magnet width so i know how much room i have.

There will be a lot mroe bracing in the rear of the design but this bracing image shows the complexity of what i will have to start to do pretty much as soon as i start building it.

Yes... there will be plenty of pics too.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Here is some more designing before i start the build...

I was actually gonna start it today but the temperature dropped over 20 degrees in one day here so i'll try and get it started tomorrow.

Here are 2 pictures. After looking at them, read below to understand what u are viewing because this is how the box will be braced.

OK, the first image showing a gray X on the side of the box with black lines going the whole width of the box.

The black lines are All-Thread rods, 3\4" thick. They will run the whole width of the box, 4 runs as you can see. The X image will also be on both sides of the box as well. What is the X? The X is made up of Steel bars. One steel bar will be on the inside and the other one will be on the outside of the box. This will allow the entire wall to be solid rather than just relying on the All-Thread points to disperse it's strength enough to do the same.

If you look at the 2nd pic, you notice a red vertical image, this is suppose to be 2x4. There is actually 2 of these per side of the box. Since the large port is in the way, i can't run my 5th and 6th run of All-thread from side to side so i gotta do a little different bracing-

I run 2 2x4s on each side ran right down in between subs. The 5th and 6th run of All-Thread will run into the 2x4 and be connected at this point. This way the 2x4s brace the top, bottom and entire left and ride side of the box. The back part of the box will be braced with easier methods.

The smaller circles shown in the pics that show the 4 15s is the Magnet width so i know how much room i have.

There will be a lot mroe bracing in the rear of the design but this bracing image shows the complexity of what i will have to start to do pretty much as soon as i start building it.

Yes... there will be plenty of pics too.

Damn.

[shizzzon 461]

If i dont have pics tomorrow night, then i will have them here Thursday. Why not wednesday? because i'll be sleepin durin the day to go see the new Terminator movie at midnight,

Ok, update-

I got 62% of all my sides cut today.

Tomorrow, i'm gonna try and get the other pieces cut and modify some existing pieces according to how everything should look in the picture above.

Then.. if it's still bright outside, i need to see if i can simulate me sliding this box as if it was already put together through the door so i can find out whether i need to build this thing outside or in the car...

If i find out i gotta build it in the car, that's fine. I already have about 20sqft of plastic sheets and access to 100s of sqft more so i can mask off the entire car if necessary.

I will be stopping by a "hobby shop" tomorrow to see if they have anything that may assist me in getting this box to glow in the dark :0 If they do not, i gotta order everything online which will delay the build time.

[shizzzon 461]

I got all the pieces cut today, well, all the main ones.

I still gotta cut the sub holes out and the port hole, port plug and port wall but that's the last thing i'll do before i install it.

I'm gonna try and "simulate" it being put together tomorrow so u guys can see how big it is outside.

[Jay-C76 333]

This should be good!

Get to choppin' ...LOL

[shizzzon 461]

OK, just got done doin some test fittin and i just found out that i will have to build the entire box and form it to a wall inside the vehicle.

I had hopes that i could build the box out of the car then take the seat and console out and slide it in there but nope, impossible.

By B pillars are angling into the cabin and do not give enough width to allow such a design to fit when built.

Here is a picture of the car it is goin in-

Here is a rough pic of the front baffle. Of course, far from done, still gotta jigsaw some edges at the top but just to show how big it will be-

If i can get my rollers ready, i guess i'll start paintin the pieces tomorrow. Painting should take close to a week to finish. Once it's done, i'll start inspecting the install area and find a suitable way to bolt the wall down to the floor. Plastic sheeting must be laid down throughout the whole car so no glue, saw dust or any other materials get on my carpet.

So, from what i'm seeing, if i stay on planned schedule, you guys should start seeing some mad pics of this build log starting next weekend!

[suprefly 0]

Woohoo! but why is painting going to take so long?

[shizzzon 461]

i will have 3 coats of paint to put on. also, i cant paint all the pieces in one day because all the pieces are huge and i don't have enough room to lay out that many pieces at once so i gotta paint the wall in sections...

I am gonna do it in a fast order though.

Secure the floor to the car then modify and attach the rear wall to the floor. After that is done, attaching the sides to the wall will take the longest...

I must do 1 side wall then get all of my all-thread aligned so i can "pre-brace" the wall before i attach the other side.

Then mount the baffle and somehow get 2x4s in there so i know where to put them when the subs come in.. complicated but possible. Again, this will be another tight-ass fit in this car but i'm all about a challenge.

[nem 2,019]

Glad to see some pictures and look foward to many more!! Nice car BTW

[shizzzon 461]

You gonna love it at night,

[shizzzon 461]

Got some more prep work done.

I reran my underbody light kit to the rear cabin area. I had to because the "brain" was so squished under the dash that the lcd screen to it wouldnt work sometimes bacause the connector was being bent up there.

Now, it's suppose to rain for the next week! If i can get some non-rain time in there, i need to attempt to rewire all my wheel well lights as well and relocate them to a master relay in the rear of my car that i have hooked up to a distribution block. This will take some hours!

I also was able to get the floor, both front side walls and the back painted today!

I still need to paint 3 separate top pieces, the rear floor, both rear side walls and rear back wall(all rear pieces are an addition to the volume of the box) and cut\glue\drill out sub holes for front baffle then paint it too.

I was up at Lowes today doin some lookin over the steel bars. It's apparent that only 3\8" thick steel is suitable for this build. 1\4" thick steel was still too flimsy for my taste.

I hope it works the way i want to though. This steel is only 1.5" wide x 3ft long. I hope it's dispersing strength is high.

[nem 2,019]

You gonna love it at night,

I look foward to seeing pictures of that.

[shizzzon 461]

Ok guys, nmssd12 wants to see some pics of the lights... but pics wont do it justice so i'll have a video up tonight.

I gotta get back out here and resand\paint these pieces i did today and get everything cleaned up and all that and by then, it should be dark enough to see the light show.

Vid expected within 90 minutes or sooner from time of posting.

[shizzzon 461]

Hey, there wasnt anyone desperately waitin for these vidz?

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Oh ok, there YOU are! I was wonderin...

Here are 2 vids i just took. Neighbors were out playin cards so that's them u r hearin.

[nem 2,019]

Very eye catching. Looks good. I don't see cars with lights under them where I live.

[shizzzon 461]

Well, i have officially ran into my first problem... i cant even get the floor mounted!?!?

I'm tryin to mount the floor to one of the main beams that runs across the car.

When i drill the hole, the damn screws just wont fit... If i size up any larger, the screw will just fall straight through the hole.

I dont understand it. I know of no other way of getting this floor secured to the car except through this beam and i cant even use it...

So as of right now, i cant start this project until i can find a way to secure the floor...

[shizzzon 461]

OK, i got some ideas on how to secure the flooring to the car.

This is the part that sucks too.

For those who have never built a wall with the intentions on not ruining anything... here is some tips!

First off, use plenty of plastic sheeting.. but be aware because that crap will get in your way a lot..

Second, which is where i am at- the floor must be PERFECTLY still while mounting to frame of car. Due to the way i measured this install, if the floor shifts in anyway other than the right way, it will throw everythign else off and the design will not fit in the car... that's how tight it is!

So.. i must be very careful when attempting to secure it again soon. This new method i'm thinking of will take about 2 days to mount so let's hope it works.

As you can see, i am somewhat ahead of schedule as i wasnt expecting to start til this weekend so if i can get over this hump, we'll be lookin good!

Also, my Custom Vinyl company contacted me today. they "should" have all of my graphics shipped to me by next Friday. Yes a total of 10 new graphics is being laid on the car.

[shizzzon 461]

OK, I FINALLY got the floor secured, yea!!! Now i can start building the install.

I did just realize though that i am not gonna get to far this weekend because i gotta wait til Monday to have my car retinted before i block the windows off, lol.