Need Help Getting A Box Built For 03 Civic Ex coupe

[master_jbb3 0]

I wanna get a box built for my civic but don't know wtf to look for.

Ok some info I plan on getting 1 fully loaded 15" btl when they update the site, and I wanna run at the most 2000w to it. Right now I only got an 800w amp but I plan on upgrading to a rockford fosgate t20001bd within a month. I also wanted to go ported instead of sealed on the box and I'm not to sure what Hz I should go with.

Damn I feel so loss but I guess we all gotta start somewhere. So I'd appreciate the help and if more info is needed I'll give it. Thanks in advance

Edited May 2, 2008 by master_jbb3

[master_jbb3 0]

ok using RE's calculator on their site this is what I got. Can someone confirm with me if this info is correct

Box width: 35

Box height: 16

Box depth: 16

Port Height: 14.5

Port Width: 3.25

Tuned at 34Hz

Also what is "Cu.ft. Volume Per Sub, and Separate or Common Chamber"? These are two things I have no clue about

Edited May 3, 2008 by master_jbb3

[shizzzon 461]

Ok, if you like low bass, tune in between 30-32hz.

If you like hard hittin bass with a little less destructive low bass, tune between 34-37hz(the higher you go, the less low end response).

cuft per sub-

You have a box, let's say it's 6 cu. ft externally measured.

Internally, it's a whole different story.

Internally, it may only be 5.5cuft. But then you must subtract the volume that the sub displaces. This may bring it down to 5.3 cuft. Now you must subtract the volume that the port takes up. That may be 1 whole cuft. So now you would be at 4.3 cuft internal but 6 cuft external.

In that example, 6 cuft is known as the external dimensions.

5.5 cuft is known as the GROSS internal volume.

4.3 cuft is known as the NET internal volume.

If you ever seen anyone mention GROSS or NET, 99.9% of the time they are referring to INTERNAL dimensions.

Gross is before sub and port displacement.

Net is after all displacements have been subtracted from Gross.

Separate or common chamber-

For you, you will NOT have separate.

But the difference is this-

Let's say you wanted to run 4 subs.

You could do a separate chambered box- Each sub has it's own enclosed space...

Or you could do a common chambered box- All subs share the same enclosed space...

Pros to common chamber - highly less potential to inaccurately calculate box measurements which could throw off tuning of the other subs(separate chamber has this possibility a lot more), gain more internal volume.

Cons to common chamber - more bracing is needed and if one sub fails, the remaining subs are now forced to play in a larger enclosure because one sub is not displacing part of the volume inside the box anymore causing the other subs to mechanically become more stressed.

This is not a problem if you know what you are doing though.

[master_jbb3 0]

thank you so much cause the reason I needed the info quick is cause I'm tryna get a quote by today or tomorrow

[master_jbb3 0]

Yes I am lookin more for the low bass

ok based on what the re audio calculator is saying to get tuned at 30Hz the port width must be 2.5. Is this correct?

Box width: 35

Box height: 16

Box depth: 16

Port Height: 14.5

Port Width: 2.5

Tuned at 30Hz

Edited May 3, 2008 by master_jbb3

[shizzzon 461]

Well, lookin at your box specs-

Tell whoever is doin the box for ya to tune it at 32hz and use at least 42sqin of port but do not allow the port to take up more than 0.8 cubes of displacement.

That box internally is 4cuft gross.

I don't think that 15 is recommended to be put in a box smaller than 3 NET

[master_jbb3 0]

Well, lookin at your box specs-

Tell whoever is doin the box for ya to tune it at 32hz and use at least 42sqin of port but do not allow the port to take up more than 0.8 cubes of displacement.

That box internally is 4cuft gross.

I don't think that 15 is recommended to be put in a box smaller than 3 NET

ok. I was wanting to get a box built and shipped from woodlawn cabinetry. Here's the exact info that I have filled in and based on what you see what should I change to get the right box built for my car. I mean I'm walkin into this pretty much blind so I don't know what to look for at all.

Install Area ( Maximum Dimensions W x H x D ) - 35" x 16" x 16"

Subwoofer Name, Model and Size - Fi BTL 15 Fully Loaded

Number of Subwoofers - 1

Separate or Common Chamber - Common Chamber

Enclosure Type ( Sealed or Ported ) - Ported

Cu.ft. Volume Per Sub (s) -

Port Type ( Round or Slot ) - Slot

Port Size Required ( Sq.In. Area) - 2.5" x 14.5" x 42.4375

Port Tuning Frequency - 32Hz

Amp/ Wattage - Rockford Fosgate T20001BD/ 2000w

Zip Code ( To Quote Shipping Cost ) - 28209

Vehicle Type, Year, Make, Model - 2003 Honda Civic Ex

[master_jbb3 0]

can someone tweak these settings for me so I can send this out plz?

[master_jbb3 0]

ok trying new tweaks that I did. Let me know if this is right for a fully loaded 15" btl. I'm gonna just do a print screen of what they have:

[shizzzon 461]

Ok man, sorry it took so long, got ur results-

Cut port area out 2.75" wide x 14.5" tall

Run port back 11.75" back and stop.

Turn 90 degrees to make an L shaped port, keeping internal port width 2.75", run port an additional 13" long.

Total length required - 27.5" realistic length - 27.445"

Tuning 32hz.

40 sq in of port.

Looks like enough for what power you have.

Not only that, but if i went any bigger, your box size would become non optimal according to Fi specs so this was a close call.

OH and in addition-

IF you are wondering why 11.75" + 13" don't add up to 27.5, that's because it doesn't, hehe.

Internal port length when making the turn inside the corner is 1.945".

11.75 + 1.945 + 13 = 26.695(or 26.75") + thickness of wood, 0.75" = 27.5" long.

Edited May 5, 2008 by shizzzon