Component Set Recommendations?

[Biowaste 0]

Hey guys,

I'm on the market for a new set of comps. I'm currently running some old-school green Infinity Kappas that are good, but it's about time to retire them (they're about 10 years old). I plan on auditioning sets before purchasing, but some other viewpoints would be appreciated.

Specifics

Enclosure - custom sealed kick pods (will be having them made soon) - I have Q-forms kick "pods" now, but they aren't enclosed - so it makes my current set sound wimpy.

Size - 5.25" set

Tweeter - preferably silk, but I'm not opposed to metal domed tweets

Amp - MTX Thunder 4320 front channels (around 80 watts per side)

Music - I listen to dynamic, melodic metal the most, from acoustic guitar to fast and brutal, with everything in between.

Preferences - I dig mids and low mids, the gutty sounds of the drums and guitar is what I'm going after.

Misc. - I have 6.5"s in the doors that I will be replacing as well, but that will be later. The doors are giving me most of the mid/low mid right now, but I'd rather have even more from the kick pods.

Budget - $200-$250, $300 max

Any recommendations?

Thanks,

-Bio

[///M5 2,833]

If you are truly running sealed, we need the airspace you have. In general however, I will add that running sealed with that size driver in a car isn't easy.

Also if these are custom, why the 5.25" instead of a 6.5"? Also, why two drivers near the same size? I'd pick either the door or the kick and not both.

[Marco_Tah 0]

On This budget, there

[denalilvr 0]

i heard from alot of people boston pro60's are really nice speakers.. so i order 2 sets of those and will give them a try myself..

Edited April 21, 2008 by denalilvr

[ramos 2]

Preferences - I dig mids and low mids, the gutty sounds of the drums and guitar is what I'm going after.

Misc. - I have 6.5"s in the doors that I will be replacing as well, but that will be later. The doors are giving me most of the mid/low mid right now, but I'd rather have even more from the kick pods.

Budget - $200-$250, $300 max

Any recommendations?

Thanks,

-Bio

Gonna take a damn good driver and some big arse kicks to get better midbass out of them than IB mounted ( in your doors ) 6.5's.

[Biowaste 0]

If you are truly running sealed, we need the airspace you have. In general however, I will add that running sealed with that size driver in a car isn't easy.

Also if these are custom, why the 5.25" instead of a 6.5"? Also, why two drivers near the same size? I'd pick either the door or the kick and not both.

M5, thanks for the heads up. I'm not exactly how much airspace I'll have to work with. If it's going to be more trouble than it's worth, then I'll just stick with them and the 6.5"s in the doors.

My original thinking was let the 5.25"s handle the mid to upper midrange frequencies, then let the 6.5" handle the thicker low mid to midrange frequencies.

Is it a bad idea to have them this close together?

My intentions were to get a more thick, gutty low mid from this scenario.

Thanks,

-Bio

[Biowaste 0]

Gonna take a damn good driver and some big arse kicks to get better midbass out of them than IB mounted ( in your doors ) 6.5's.

I can see the reasoning behind this. Perhaps having the door speakers will just have to work. Deaden the hell out of them and get them as sealed as possible.

Thanks for the advice guys!

-Bio

[ramos 2]

My original thinking was let the 5.25"s handle the mid to upper midrange frequencies, then let the 6.5" handle the thicker low mid to midrange frequencies.

Is it a bad idea to have them this close together?

My intentions were to get a more thick, gutty low mid from this scenario.

Thanks,

-Bio

Now your thinking. You could actually go smaller than 5 1/4's in the kicks if needed

[Biowaste 0]

Now your thinking. You could actually go smaller than 5 1/4's in the kicks if needed

I like that idea, actually.

Are there any 4" component sets that you would recommend for my situation?

Thanks ramos,

-Bio

[///M5 2,833]

No real 4" components, but definitely some separates.

[Biowaste 0]

No real 4" components, but definitely some separates.

Not sure I'm following you here... ??

-Bio

[///M5 2,833]

Most separates require an offboard processor to cross them over. In your situation it is really what you need.

[Biowaste 0]

Most separates require an offboard processor to cross them over. In your situation it is really what you need.

I was thinking of just dropping a 4" component set in some unsealed kicks and let the door 6.5"s do most of the dirty work for the lower mid range freqs. Of course it'd take some work on the doors, but it seems possible.

What would be the main concerns of doing it this way? Frequency cancellation?

-Bio

[///M5 2,833]

You really shouldn't have two drivers playing the same frequency range.

[Biowaste 0]

You really shouldn't have two drivers playing the same frequency range.

I suppose I could try "combining" the crossovers from the AC Three.1 and the amps to create a bandpass crossover. I could give the 4" comp set everything from 250hz up and let the 6.5"s handle 100-250hz. It'd definately take some experimenting with the freqs to get the drivers in their comfort range though.

This seems like a poor man's way to pull this off. What do you think M5?

Thanks,

-Bio

[///M5 2,833]

way, way better than just plopping in another set of components.

The 6.5 in your doors should be able to play way lower, if not you should either replace them if necessary or fix the install so they can. In a well sealed door good output down to 50hz with some 6.5's is very possible.

[sick6ness 1]

way, way better than just plopping in another set of components.

The 6.5 in your doors should be able to play way lower, if not you should either replace them if necessary or fix the install so they can. In a well sealed door good output down to 50hz with some 6.5's is very possible.

Yes true, I have my Type-r's down to around 75hz with no problem, but with a powerful amp pushing them. Thinking about dropping it even more for a test.

Edited April 22, 2008 by sick6ness

[///M5 2,833]

It would be rather easy to spec out a good 6.5,7, or 8" midbass that would really do things nice

[ANeonRider 3]

It would be rather easy to spec out a good 6.5,7, or 8" midbass that would really do things nice

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy.

[///M5 2,833]

Exactly the first two I was thinking of.

[Biowaste 0]

It would be rather easy to spec out a good 6.5,7, or 8" midbass that would really do things nice

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy.

Is there a website with more info on these brands?

Thanks,

-Bio

[audio-neon 34]

You really wanna get your 6.5"s lower than that. My suggestion would be 63hz-200 for the doors...

A great option for you is the hybrid audio legatia l4... I think they even sell 3 way kits that would be an l6, l4 and l1... Of course I'm probably breaking the bank too.

[audio-neon 34]

http://www.peerlessaudio.com/products_rd_list.htm

http://www.cdtaudio.com/

[ANeonRider 3]

It would be rather easy to spec out a good 6.5,7, or 8" midbass that would really do things nice

Easy is an understatement. Now that Peerless has the 7" SLS and CSS has the SDX-7 (amongst others), very easy.

Is there a website with more info on these brands?

Thanks,

-Bio

Peerless SLS 7" <--- dedicated midbass

Creative Sound Solutions SDX7<---- wider range midbass/midrange, can be used as a dedicated midbass, or as the midwoofer in a 2 way.

[Biowaste 0]

Thanks for the tips/suggestions guys.

Looks like the first step I'm going to take is getting the doors ready for those drivers. Deadened to hell and back, deflex pad plus sealed as well as possible.

-Bio