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JybFan04,

What kind of specs can we expect?

@ 12 volts?

---

Roughly as follows:

~4000 @ 13 volts

~5000 @ 14 volts

~7000 @ 18 volts

Factory rated specs. As with the 3000D these are quite likely conservative at the lower voltages as we have found that the 3000Ds produce 3000 watts down to very low voltages.

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Ok, just read about this, gotta ask some spec questions as my build will be coming VERY soon but if this amp fits my needs then i wil be more than willing on waiting 3months for it if necessary.

You don't have to be exact since these arent built yet so ball park figures are fine.

What do you think the weight of one of these will be and will the length be under 40"?

I can care less about the output specs since i'm assuming it's similar to the 3000d, one thing that i am curious on is - will this amp feature dual 0/1 power and ground?

Thank you for any feedback.

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It will feature dual power connectors.

Length will be under 40" - it will be a wider amp.

I cannot give you much on weight as it requires a new heatsink tool for the width... just assume quite a bit, likely ~40 pounds.

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Sounds like a great amp Jacob and I am glad to see Sundown breaking into new territory. The biggest thing I would recommend to you is to put what kind of supporting electrical you will need in this and the list thread as I am sure there will be some interest from people who may not know what they are doing.

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Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light.

I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not.

I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great.

Electrical-(bose301s)

For daily use, i'd assume you would need at the very least minimum a single 300a alt, recommended dual 200s\dual 250s.

minimum of 250aH worth of batts.

This is my assumption.

Edited by shizzzon

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Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light.

I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not.

I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great.

The 3000s around around 30 lbs each, they feel heavier but that is the actual weight.

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Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light.

I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not.

I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great.

Electrical-(bose301s)

For daily use, i'd assume you would need at the very least minimum a single 300a alt, recommended dual 200s\dual 250s.

minimum of 250aH worth of batts.

This is my assumption.

No, I know it will take one hell of an electrical system to support, but I think Jake should spell it out definitively for people so he doesn't wind up with a lot of dead amps.

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Jacob, us street competitors only ask that you stress efficiency. Other than that you already own our wallets, lol.

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Awesome then, don't take this the wrong way but 40lbs is light.

I'm trying to get a list of all my equipment that i "might" use and the 3000d was in there... I just figured it weighed 45lbs, hehe, guess not.

I was sweatin over here hopin you wasnt gonna say over 65lbs, around 40 is nothing, great.

The 3000s around around 30 lbs each, they feel heavier but that is the actual weight.

the 3000s are light to me... my goliath is like 50 lbs.. chit even a jl 1000/1 weights more.... but thay dont play like a 3000

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hey bigjon, you r crazy man, i am not the walkin money tree.....

Gotta change the subject real quick..

I checked out CM's UL line... 18lbs is CRAZY light, but not for $2k....

hehe, that was a crazy company but i'm not that rich.

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No, I know it will take one hell of an electrical system to support, but I think Jake should spell it out definitively for people so he doesn't wind up with a lot of dead amps.

Expect to support 500 amps of current draw to achieve full output on a "12 volt" system.

This means, as correctly stated above, a 300-amp alternator with at *least* two Group 31 batteries such as the Powermaster D3100s.

Anyone trying to run one of these on a weak electrical setup voids their warranty - I will need evidence of electrical upgrades for the 6-month warranty.

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So far we have zero takers out of over 70 votes across the two forums :)

Maybe I should set a deadline for the list to form or scrap the idea.

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Jacob, will these amps run .5? Not for daily but for bass race and demos. Electrical sytem will be dual 250's and 12 SPL-C115's.

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Jacob, will these amps run .5? Not for daily but for bass race and demos. Electrical sytem will be dual 250's and 12 SPL-C115's.

They should, but are not warrantied. Build quality is like the other amps in the line.

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Now hold on sundownz, don't offer an idea scrapper yet, hehe, i still gotta look over somethings.

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I might just stick to running SAZ-3000D's, ill get back to you tomarrow Jacob. Trying to deside between 4x 3kws (8x 3kws down the road) or 2x 5ws (4x 5kws down the road)

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Deadline set... end of May.

If list is not filled project is canceled.

So, those interested, get on it! :neil:

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I LOVE AMPS THAT CAN PRODUCE LOTS OF POWER AT LOW VOLTS, EVERYBODY DON'T HAVE THE ROOM TO LOAD THERE CAR,TRUCK, ECT. WITH ALOT OF BATTS... SO A LOW VOLTAGE POWER HOUSE WOULD BE A GREAT IDEA.... THATS WHY THE SOUTH AMERICAN GUYS ARE DOING IT!!!! IF U KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT

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that doesnt mean you should bypass what is recommended to run an amp that can draw 500a or more.

As a rule of thumb for music, you should have half the fuse rating of the amps in aH for batts.

So, like i stated before, 250aH for an amp that can draw 500a.

The long term output alone from the batts is not what to look at(not talking to anyone in specific) but the goal is to have enough power from the batts so if\when it does draw off the batts, their voltage level will stay high even during high current demands where alt just can't do it.

The less batt you have, the faster the batt will drain. The faster a batt will drain, the lower the voltage goes.

For anyone, noobs and experienced, i would still advise in getting the Cadence FH-8 block as i use it on my amps so if any amp that is ran through it gets sent anything below 12v, the block will automatically shut down power output from it before it gets to the amp so it doesnt potentially damage it.

You can get the block for under $50 easily so for a $1,200 intro price, you could actually run one these blocks on a stock electrical system with this 5k amp and be safe...

Although it would rarely ever be on since the block would keep it off most of the time, hehe.

The block reacts superfast. Think of your cd skipping. Now, instead of knowing it's skipping because it's scratched, think of it as every time is stops, it's your amp being turned off due to low voltage then resuming when voltage rises above 12v.

Something to use not as a suggestion but as a hopeful mandatory purchase.

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I LOVE AMPS THAT CAN PRODUCE LOTS OF POWER AT LOW VOLTS, EVERYBODY DON'T HAVE THE ROOM TO LOAD THERE CAR,TRUCK, ECT. WITH ALOT OF BATTS... SO A LOW VOLTAGE POWER HOUSE WOULD BE A GREAT IDEA.... THATS WHY THE SOUTH AMERICAN GUYS ARE DOING IT!!!! IF U KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT

So then you have to invest more in wire and current transmission to get the equivalent power...no free lunches.

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Once the amps come in they will ship within a few days. Each one will be tested individually so they can't all ship instantly, but hey would ship in a few days!

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