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burnerofhells

Weak havoc 18" or something else?

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I just hooked up my new havoc 18 to a behringer 2500. The sub is wired in series for a 4 ohm load. This is my first issue. The sub comes up at about 6 ohms when wired. this is not the 4 ohms that it should be. I realize it is never exact but 2 ohms off seems strange.

The sub is wired according to this..

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/1_2ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

I have double and triple checked it.

Now here is my big issue. When powering the sub, at what i would call moderate levels, there is a terrible banging noise that comes on certain notes. I'm afraid that this is the sub bottoming out. However, I dont see how this could be with the kind of music that it is doing this with. I'm going to check that it isnt the wiring slapping the cone. I am very doubtful as it is staples down within the box.

So.. im thinking either:

- The sub is weak and the amp is a lot stronger than i thought.

- My box is way miss tuned. It does this with notes that are quite high. I am going to run test tones to find the tuning fq of the box.

the front baffle is 1.5" the sub fits into place just fine. Could it be possible that the sub is excusing and hitting the inside of the sub cuttout where the two pieces of mdf come together and aren't perfectly aligned?

Thats pretty much all i can come up with?? "

Any help would be great.

Right now i hope my disappointment is my own doing somehow, i expected more.

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I just hooked up my new havoc 18 to a behringer 2500. The sub is wired in series for a 4 ohm load. This is my first issue. The sub comes up at about 6 ohms when wired. this is not the 4 ohms that it should be. I realize it is never exact but 2 ohms off seems strange.

The sub is wired according to this..

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/1_2ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

I have double and triple checked it.

Now here is my big issue. When powering the sub, at what i would call moderate levels, there is a terrible banging noise that comes on certain notes. I'm afraid that this is the sub bottoming out. However, I dont see how this could be with the kind of music that it is doing this with. I'm going to check that it isnt the wiring slapping the cone. I am very doubtful as it is staples down within the box.

So.. im thinking either:

- The sub is weak and the amp is a lot stronger than i thought.

- My box is way miss tuned. It does this with notes that are quite high. I am going to run test tones to find the tuning fq of the box.

the front baffle is 1.5" the sub fits into place just fine. Could it be possible that the sub is excusing and hitting the inside of the sub cuttout where the two pieces of mdf come together and aren't perfectly aligned?

Thats pretty much all i can come up with?? "

Any help would be great.

Right now i hope my disappointment is my own doing somehow, i expected more.

Pop test each coil seperately, then wire your sub to 4ohms series, then pop test it again to make absolute sure that the sub is wired in phase. I ran into this problem not to long ago myself. I've wired 100's and 100's of subs, and even I made the simple mistake. Sounds exactly like what was wrong for me when this happened. Hope that helps.

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one scenario could be you wired it properly but the label on one of the voice coil could be labeled backwards... it happens sometime.

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All of the above answers are what I would do. I was in the same boat as Mark when the sub was in series and still out of phase.

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You say 6 ohms... that doesnt sound like a Dual 2 ohm sub.

Put both probes together on your DMM and make sure it reads 0.0 ohms before testing.

A lot of D4 coils read 2.8-3.2 ohms, which translates into 5.6 - 6.4 ohms which is what you are getting unless your DMM is not calibrated right.

This wont fix your sound problem but i'd still check into that as well.

If it's not you reading the DMM wrong, then you got Dual 4s and not Dual 2s.

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No sh1t...I had an old RE XXX that had the + and - terminals labeled backwards. Drove me crazy until I popped each coil with a 9v battery.

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well, the dmm was indeed messed. I have confirmed using another dmm that the coils are 2ohms and it is wired in series and is 4ohms.

I also checked the pahse with a 9volt battery. Unfortunately it did not fix the problem that i was having. The coils are in pase and there is nothing wrong with the sub in that department.

I am thinking that maybe there is something wrong with how i have the behringer hooked up.

It is set to bridged mono. What gets me is that when i adjust channel 2 it makes the sound level go down and then back up at 3/4 gain. It shouldnt be doing anything i though. Any advice for hooking up the behringer. Nothing i can find in the manual.

thanks

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Connect your speaker wires one to each positive terminal on the Behringer.

Dip switches 3, 6, 7 and 8 need to be in the ON position. Switches 1, 4, 5 and 10 need to be off.

Keep gain knob #2 at zero. Use gain knob #1 only.

Also... at 4 ohms.. you're WAY over powering that sub. It was NOT ment to handle the 2000~ watts you're giving it. You probably are bottoming it out.

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Connect your speaker wires one to each positive terminal on the Behringer.

Dip switches 3, 6, 7 and 8 need to be in the ON position. Switches 1, 4, 5 and 10 need to be off.

Keep gain knob #2 at zero. Use gain knob #1 only.

Also... at 4 ohms.. you're WAY over powering that sub. It was NOT ment to handle the 2000~ watts you're giving it. You probably are bottoming it out.

Ya, maybe im just too tough on the sub. Lame, i though it would have a little more oomf than it does. Ok, i though it would have a lot more ooms than it does.

I'm used to car audio subs that can take 5000rms plus. Stupid wimpy home sub. If only I could get my digital designs to work in my house better.

___________________

The behringer switches are very confusing. They all have an on, off position, left or right. BUT... the mode switches chart has some of the modes inverted from the actual switches on the amp.

For example, the low cut filter off position is actually where all of the other switches are in the on position. It is like this for both channels. Whats with this? Am i missing something or is this freaking confusing? Its "off" when its in the "on" position.

Why must switch 3 be in the on position? It is the Low cut filter, we want the low frequencies.? This is what confuses me. The on position is actually the off position. So are you saying it needs to be in the off position, according to the mode switches chart (to the right) or in the off position according to the off/on label (to the left).??

Thanks!

Edited by burnerofhells

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He does mean that 3,6,7,8 will be in the "ON" position (to the right) while the others are "Off" (to the left). That's what my memory tells me works for bridged mode.

And while it's a little confusing - I think it helps force users to think about what the hell thery're doing back there so they dont blindly flip switches.

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