Electrical System Integrity.

[InfinitePeace 0]

you can get powermaster from Jegs www.jegs.com or summit racing www.summitracing.com

personaly Id get the biggest you can afford and fit

lol. I had a feeling you were going to say that. Someone said D2400 earlier. This is where I'm going to sound stupid. I see 12V and 16V, what's the difference other than voltage, obviously. But what does that mean to me?

[loudcav 1]

you want the 12 volt ones. well unless you have a 16 volt setup

[sundownz 197]

Powermaster batteries will make a substantial difference. One Powermaster battery = about three regular lead acid batteries of the same dimensions

[InfinitePeace 0]

Sigh. Everyone said I was crazy for spending this much because you can "get a system for so much less", well it's these kind of things that make it expensive, the things you don't think about, that no one thinks about, including myself. When this is all said and done I will have spent 800 without labor on just my electrical system. =/

[Cheesemind 0]

Sigh. Everyone said I was crazy for spending this much because you can "get a system for so much less", well it's these kind of things that make it expensive, the things you don't think about, that no one thinks about, including myself. When this is all said and done I will have spent 800 without labor on just my electrical system. =/

It's totally worth it though dude. I had a high current amp in my last car (chitty audiobahn 2300hct) and stupidly I knew nothing about upgrading the electrical system. It was a 1998 Lincoln Mark 8. If you don't know, lincolns are almost completely electrical. I paid 4000$ for it, used, 6 months ago. Worked great for 5 months, no problems what so ever. I put this new system in, with the audiobahn 2300hct and within 1 month, so many electrical problems occured, I ended up having to trade the car in for 2000$, and it wasn't worth even that. The salesman was in such a rush to sell me a car he gave me 2000$ for a car that needed to go to the junkyard. If I woulda spent 800$ on upgrading my electrical system, I would still have my car, and another 4600$ (what the next car cost).

Also, I think keeping the interstate battery as the main, and running the 2nd battery in the back would be better. It probably isn't needed for only the 1500 amp, but if you got both anyways, why not make sure you have the power for what you need. After my first stereo destroying my first car, I'm not taking any more chances.

PS. I was an idiot and kept bumping my system as hard as I could, even though it was dimming lights to the point where it would almost shut my car off. Didn't realize I could cause permanent damage. Doh, expensive lesson learned.

[InfinitePeace 0]

Man that sucks. =/

I don't know what I'll do yet. I guess I can replace the battery. I really don't want to have 2 batteries if I can help it. It's more weight and space is already an issue, I'll be lucky if I can fit both 12's in there; apparently the false wall is hiding my gas tank as well which until recently I was unaware was part of what occupied that space. I've seen 4 10's fit in this car so I have to believe it's possible. I guess well see when I actually have time to take it apart.

[Cheesemind 0]

Man that sucks. =/

I don't know what I'll do yet. I guess I can replace the battery. I really don't want to have 2 batteries if I can help it. It's more weight and space is already an issue, I'll be lucky if I can fit both 12's in there; apparently the false wall is hiding my gas tank as well which until recently I was unaware was part of what occupied that space. I've seen 4 10's fit in this car so I have to believe it's possible. I guess well see when I actually have time to take it apart.

I just got my alternator upgraded from a 60A alternator to a 200A alternator. WOW what an improvement. I don't think I even need my 2nd battery now. It sounds like a totally new system. I can't explain it. I actually bought a sundown 100.4 because my highs were getting overpowered by my bass so badly that I figured I needed to upgrade my amp. Turns out there just wasn't enough power for both. My highs with only 45 rms to each now keep up, and actually sounds good with the EQ flat.

Wow what an improvement. The big 3 + 2nd battery have nothing on this, seriously. I'd go with the alternator first and see if you even need the other stuff man. I still can't believe the difference it made. Not only do my lights not dim, but everything sounds better. LOL, I wasn't getting the power my system was wanting before, no wonder it sounded like crap!

[InfinitePeace 0]

Ya.. the alternator should be here any day, it was supposed to ship from Ohiogen on Friday. I'm going to get that in first and then throw everything in. A battery is an easy thing to change, this one is almost brand new. Maybe it's not the best, but I'm also not going to be listening to music full blast all day or am I going for all out SPL, or listening with the engine off or all the way up at idle. I'm investing way too much cash to be stupid about it... so I'll give it a shot and buy another battery later I think. Or maybe right now, hell if I know, let me check my account once all the other crap is ordered. lol.

[WildSebring 0]

An extra battery is well worth it, even if you get the alternator.

I used to own a PPI DCX 1000.1 amplifier and a single 12" Soundstream SPLX, and with that setup, I needed 2 extra gel cells with a LOAD BOSS 180 amp alternator to feed it what it wanted properly.

I know it seems your pouring all your money into electrical, but it is very very very much worth it.

I then had a single 15" RE SX on a single SAZ 1500d and the lights dimmed so bad, it was flat out rediculous. I added two small X-Static Batcaps ($100a piece) and the improvement was so great, even on the stock alternator of 95 amps. The lights didnt dim at all, and the sub was twice as loud. Playing music, my lowest recorded voltage on the meter was 13.82v.

If you don't add one now, do it soon in the future, you will be so glad you did.

Just my .02 cents

Edited February 13, 2008 by WildSebring

[cubdenno 0]

I am not knocking alts in this reply because they are needed BUT... Even if you add a 200 amp alt, the majority of power comes from your battery. The alt is just a battery charger. Yes the alt can power your cars electrical components but again it still comes down to the battery. Adding a low resistance battery or a second one will help your system with dimming lights etc.

I am not saying this to start a fight or get booed off the forum but I do believe it to be true.

[Cheesemind 0]

I am not knocking alts in this reply because they are needed BUT... Even if you add a 200 amp alt, the majority of power comes from your battery. The alt is just a battery charger. Yes the alt can power your cars electrical components but again it still comes down to the battery. Adding a low resistance battery or a second one will help your system with dimming lights etc.

I am not saying this to start a fight or get booed off the forum but I do believe it to be true.

You might be right, I don't know enough about all this to say one way or another. I'm only relating my current experience. I have a Audiobahn 2300HCT in my 2000 Grand Prix and it only had a 60A alternator. I added a 2nd battery and did not notice a single bit of difference with dimming. I did the big 3 and noticed a difference then, but only a few volume levels worth. I added the alternator and receive NO dimming what so ever now, at any volume.

But I have an Optima Yellowtop under the hood, and another in the trunk, and I've heard those aren't so good compared to other batteries, so that might be why.

[InfinitePeace 0]

Ugh.

I'll look into getting a powermaster... I just don't know what size I need. Is there specific classes that relate to battery tray size, or do I just have to measure physical mass and size and see what fits?

[InfinitePeace 0]

Okay. I haven't had time to sit down and measure what's actually under the hood, but provided this information is accurate, interstate recommends this battery for my car;

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/estore/...nk%7C1&js=1

Length: 11 inches

Width: 6.88 inches

Height: 8.75 inches

So, if that information is accurate, than the D2400 would be almost a perfect fit at; 10.24" L x 6.65" W x 8.31" H; Would it not? Are there any other size constraints to take into a account?

That said, as for Big 3 while I'm in there, is 2awg enough or do I HAVE to use 0; Over such a short distance, would I really see a difference? I have 6 feet of extra 0, but more of the 2 and I just want to know if I'd be okay with 2?

[RemixPinoY 0]

To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade.

And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

[muddybass 13]

personally id go with kinetik

[InfinitePeace 0]

Which Kinetik and why?

[InfinitePeace 0]

To the OP man if you think your worried try powering up a system with a 3000D LOL!! I have a supra so my electrical is similar to your SC, stock alt. is 110amps. Having a hard time as it is with everything set low low low. So yes man UPGRADE IF YOU CAN! And yeah I can already tell once I upgrade the stock alt and battery they'll be an improvement. Sometimes I notice I cannot get enough power any longer that I just have to stop playing my system because my subs will start quieting down from insufficient power which isn't good. So be sure to upgrade.

And I'm with you on battery weight, trying to minimize anything I can if possible, I've heard that extra batteries make your alternator work harder which is bad. Is this true? But I'm guessing since many of you recommend getting more than one battery, an aftermarket one should be heavily built enough to handle the extra load right? Also to the OP have you ever considered running a smaller battery, like the ones they use for cars that track. The batteries that weight like 6-15 pounds, you could use that for your main for your car. And then the heavy fat battery you could put in the rear or front so that you won't gain too much mass.

I appreciate the insight, however I don't want to do more than one battery, as the trunk will be cramped enough as it is. That's why I'm going to buy the best battery I can for the front... so far the Powermaster 2400 appears to be almost a perfect fit which is what I was asking. Now someone is suggesting Kinetik and I'd just like to know what makes one of these "Car Audio" batteries better than another? Stinger makes some too... whats different about those?

[loudcav 1]

the powermaster will have a bit more power than the kinetik when I got my D2400 it was between that and the hc1400

[InfinitePeace 0]

the powermaster will have a bit more power than the kinetik when I got my D2400 it was between that and the hc1400

If that is truly the case then it's virtually no contest given that the powermaster is also 80-100 cheaper, and you're saying it will give me a bit more power? Sounds like a win-win... but am I right with the dimension assumptions, the powermaster is a hair smaller in each dimension, that won't be a problem will it?

[johnecon2001 82]

You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

[InfinitePeace 0]

You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around.

[RemixPinoY 0]

You're short on space.. Smaller is better.

It would be going up front, I mean in terms of how well it will sit in the battery tray. I mean, batteries are heavy so I doubt it will move much as it is, but I just want to make sure a fraction of an inch here and there that its not going to slide around.

What about a battery tie down kit?

[InfinitePeace 0]

The dimensions are ALMOST Identical, the Powermaster being fractions of an inch smaller on each side. Theres already a strap going over it, my question is, is that okay, with that same strap there holing down a slightly smaller battery, should I still be okay?

[loudcav 1]

the battery might be heavy enough that it dosent move Ive got asmall bracket on my car that keeps the D2400 from sliding into the motor. it may of come with the battery Im not sure I let the shop put it in

[InfinitePeace 0]

Ya, the shop that did my alternator said they would make it fit one way or another, as long as it wasn't taller than my current battery it for sure would not be an issue. It's all coming together now.

Too bad while they were in there they found that power steering problem was worse than I thought. There goes another grand...