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MKader17

2-Way or 3-Way?

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I've been trying to decide if I want a single Din, Double Din, or possibly Car PC in my truck but I think the question can really only be answered after I decide if I want to go 3-way or 2-way Active. I have now currently installed one 2-Way Active setup ran by an 880PRS so that is my extent to an active setup.

I have been told to do a 3-way I may have to go with a robust 7 instead of an 8 but would really prefer squeezing an 8 even if that means a custom door pod that I have seen made. I have no problem with using the kicks or glassing as well

So I'm really looking for some Pro's and Con's between 2-Way and 3-way. The more I think the more I really just want to go all out on this truck and love the idea of a good 3-way

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it's all about where the drivers will be and what you can fit.

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And how much tuning you really want to have to do. The pro's are pretty simple: monster midbass, near point source with a mid that covers most of the musical range, and as sparkly on the high end as you want. The cons are also sort of obvious: work, install time, and tuning time.

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...and money :P

Your pros listed are really exactly what I'm looking for, I'm really attracted to the idea of a powerful midrange for this setup

If I were to do 3-way I was hoping to do Midrange in the kicks with the mid-bass and tweeter in stock locations designed to be angled towards the listener. But something tells me that won't be highly recommended.

So my next option is the mid-range and tweet in the kicks with the mid-bass solo in the stock location still with some angle towards the listener (if possible).

Or maybe all three in the doors? Possible?

What kind of options does the 3-way open up as far as head units and processing ?

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The speaker location is a little dependent on processing; however, generically the midbass in the doors and the rest in the kicks is a good start.

3 way: H701 & some sort of Alpine controller, Pio P9 combo, pc and Behringer 2496, Clarion 9255, Ural CDD, PPI DCX are pretty much the starting point. There are a couple other ways but for a first shot I'd lean with the above. Actually for me, I'd either do the Behringer route or a touch screen controller (w200) and the H701.

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mmm love the idea is there any reason you recommended the w200 and not the w205?

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you can also wait a couple months for the w505. looks like its worth the wait to me.

Edited by BLACKonBLACK98

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WIth the H701 would you use the rear channel for the midbass and front1&2 for tweeter and midrange?

Edited by AP Zoutes

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That is what I did, but some use the rear channel for the midrange, then use the front2 for the midbass because the rear outputs do have more crossover points to choose from.

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can you still use the auto time alignment mic or do you have to do it manually

edit- what do you do for your rear speakers?

Edited by AP Zoutes

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Rear speakers? Whats that?

I do it manually, since I have the D310 controlling the processor... and don't need much of it either because of my driver locations. You can only do auto T/A with the mic if you have the C701.

Anyways, he has a 880PRS, so this doesn't apply.

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Auto t/a and auto eq NEVER works. Stupid marketing gimic, manual is the only way. Of course rears really never work either and should be scrapped.

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Anyways, he has a 880PRS, so this doesn't apply.

Me? I don't have an 880, my roomate does. I will be using an alpine 2 din with the H701

Thanks for the info on the Auto TA/EQ!

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The 880's is pathetic, actually funny how bad it works.

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I'm pretty sure I'll be running the H701, didn't really take me long to decide 3-way but it will take me a while to save the money for the whole system, I'm looking at about 600 dollars just for deadening....

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:woot: $600 might be a bit overkill though, I'll be the first to admit I love going overboard but 3.5 rolls and 15 yards should be more than plenty.

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