Btl recone

[Fear Of Theive 0]

What all comes with a recone..

I have the motor (fully loaded with universal) and the basket but nothing else. What do i need?

And price.

[NDMstang65 403]

price depends on what size recone you need...and where you are located (zip code)

It comes with everything but glue, you have to use epoxy, we can't ship out CA glue anymore.

Thanks!

-Nick

[visitor 3]

why cant you ship ca glue?

[BKOLFO4 29]

Is there anything special about that CA glue, or is it the same kind you can get at a hooby shop?

Can you still ship the activator? That is the best part for doing a recone. Instant hold!!!

Brian

[NDMstang65 403]

Hazmat shipping is why we can't ship it anymore

Had way too many problems with activator bottles getting busted and ca glue running everywhere...UPS/USPS got a little pissed off so we had to stop sending it out. Sorry guys.

[fbi90909 0]

that kinda sucks

i think that epoxy works very very well though. it's a little hard to apply but holds it's strenght. i think recomeded is a 15min 2 part epoxy. i use a 30min extra strenght epoxy cause they don't sell a 15min one down here and let it sit overnight, by morning it's rock hard.

[Robert_J 0]

i use a 30min extra strenght epoxy cause they don't sell a 15min one down here and let it sit overnight, by morning it's rock hard.

I used Loctite Etra Time 60min 2 part epoxy. It looks like snot but holds great. You never see it anyway.

-Robert

[jonbearsmt 919]

if i send in my fi subs, can fi do the recone?

[fbi90909 0]

if i send in my fi subs, can fi do the recone?

yep

[buickid 0]

Shipping for all that weight can get a little pricey though.

[fbi90909 0]

Shipping for all that weight can get a little pricey though.

true, but at least you know your recone is getting done right if you have never done a recone before. recones are quite easy but take a bit of patience and concentration. plus if you don't get it on right the first time well, your basically fudgeed after the glue dries and could possibly need a new recone kit.

[Robert_J 0]

Shipping for all that weight can get a little pricey though.

recones are quite easy but take a bit of patience and concentration. plus if you don't get it on right the first time well, your basically fudgeed after the glue dries and could possibly need a new recone kit.

That's why I went with the slower drying epoxy. Just to give me more time. I didn't need it. 20 minute would work fine. Anything less than that and you better be an expert reconer.

Also, shims were not included in my recone kit. I made them from a of the Kroger version of Equal artificial sweetener. 1" wide by 7" long. Six of them fit perfectly into the gap. Bend them in slightly at the top so you can quickly drop the cone in and get all 6 inside of the voice coil. Since there are six, I align each one with one of the 6 bolts holding the frame to the motor. That makes sure they are evenly spaced.

Here are my steps:

1. Test fit the the kit using the shims. This ensures that everything is even and you can practice getting all 6 shims inside of the coil.

2. Remove the shims.

3. Mix the epoxy. I use a small plastic container. The kind you get from a restaurant when you order salad dressing on the side.

4. Spread the epoxy around the surround landing and the spider landing. I used the full tube of epoxy for an 18" sub. Don't drip any in the motor! If you don't trust yourself, cover the motor gap with a circular piece of cardboard.

5. Remove the motor cover and evenly space the shims in the motor gap.

6. Line up the tinsel leads on the kit with the terminals on the basket. It would suck if you had the leads on the wrong side. I work with the terminals on the basket next to me. That way I know how it is oriented.

7. Carefully push the kit down onto the shims and into the motor gap.

8. Line up the cut-outs for the bolt hold on the surround with the bolt holes on the basket. Make the final push until the surround and spider touch the glue covered basket.

9. I use a single finger to press the surround into the glue. Press, move 1/2" and press again. Repeat until you cover the entire circumfrence of the driver.

10. Then I carefully push down on the center of the cone a little. This seats the spider into the glue.

11. I add a weight onto the center to hold everything. For my 18's I used an RE 8" sub.

12. Wait. Don't rush things. My epoxy said everything would be cured in 24 hours. I waited 48.

13. I'll add dust cap instructions after I install them.

-Robert

[damonhargroves07 0]

very nice demonstration by words!!

[db dom 0]

Do not use sugar packets as shims...

Just get some sheets of paper, much easier to get exact.

[Robert_J 0]

Do not use sugar packets as shims...

I should have mentioned the BOX that the sugar packets came in. Not the packets themself. I thought that was obvious but considering the types of posts I sometimes read online I shouldn't leave out even the obvious details. Here's a pic.

Any more than 6 shims and it becomes difficult to push the coil down into the gap. This provides enough support so that it holds the entire recone assembly without sliding down. I have to gently push it down into the gap. And 6 shims can be evenly spaced when centered on the 6 mounting bolts.

-Robert

[NDMstang65 403]

You need to grind the basket with a flapper disk as well..otherwise the spiders will pop off..

Get some manilla folders, it works the best and you dont have to worry about getting the coil crooked because its 1 piece of paper...we always use them when we're at shows and don't have our regular shims available.

Thanks!

-Nick

[prodigy215 0]

Shipping for all that weight can get a little pricey though.

recones are quite easy but take a bit of patience and concentration. plus if you don't get it on right the first time well, your basically fudgeed after the glue dries and could possibly need a new recone kit.

That's why I went with the slower drying epoxy. Just to give me more time. I didn't need it. 20 minute would work fine. Anything less than that and you better be an expert reconer.

Also, shims were not included in my recone kit. I made them from a of the Kroger version of Equal artificial sweetener. 1" wide by 7" long. Six of them fit perfectly into the gap. Bend them in slightly at the top so you can quickly drop the cone in and get all 6 inside of the voice coil. Since there are six, I align each one with one of the 6 bolts holding the frame to the motor. That makes sure they are evenly spaced.

Here are my steps:

1. Test fit the the kit using the shims. This ensures that everything is even and you can practice getting all 6 shims inside of the coil.

2. Remove the shims.

3. Mix the epoxy. I use a small plastic container. The kind you get from a restaurant when you order salad dressing on the side.

4. Spread the epoxy around the surround landing and the spider landing. I used the full tube of epoxy for an 18" sub. Don't drip any in the motor! If you don't trust yourself, cover the motor gap with a circular piece of cardboard.

5. Remove the motor cover and evenly space the shims in the motor gap.

6. Line up the tinsel leads on the kit with the terminals on the basket. It would suck if you had the leads on the wrong side. I work with the terminals on the basket next to me. That way I know how it is oriented.

7. Carefully push the kit down onto the shims and into the motor gap.

8. Line up the cut-outs for the bolt hold on the surround with the bolt holes on the basket. Make the final push until the surround and spider touch the glue covered basket.

9. I use a single finger to press the surround into the glue. Press, move 1/2" and press again. Repeat until you cover the entire circumfrence of the driver.

10. Then I carefully push down on the center of the cone a little. This seats the spider into the glue.

11. I add a weight onto the center to hold everything. For my 18's I used an RE 8" sub.

12. Wait. Don't rush things. My epoxy said everything would be cured in 24 hours. I waited 48.

13. I'll add dust cap instructions after I install them.

-Robert

Quick question. With lining up the "Tinsel Leads", do I have to solder the tinsel leads onto the terminals or tape it? reply asap. thanks

[NDMstang65 403]

You must solder them...

If you have our new integrated tinsels you need to pull them through the tinsel block and solder the top side, snip the bottom off and run a bead of solder over the bottom as well.