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shareef777

Enclosure for a single 12" BTL in 03 Mustang

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I own a 2003 Mustang GT, and am trying to get the best system I can in it. I have VERY limited trunk space and so chose a single fully loaded 12" BTL powered by a Kicker ZX2500.1 (2500 watts RMS into one channel @ 2 ohms). I also have a kinetic 2500 in the trunk. The trunk opening is too small to get any sized box thru so I'll be installing it thru the back seat. The opening is 13" high by 32" wide, and 28" deep. I'm looking for a ported box to get the most bang out of the sub.

Anyone got the best design for the BTL with the max dimensions (13x32x28)? Thanks.

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Looks good, thanks. But after taking about the back seat I noticed that the corners of the opening are curved in. So my width is now limited to 28". My dimensions are now 28x28x13.

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Build it as above, but change the width from 30" to 28" and the depth from 18" to 19"

Change the 10" port wall to 9".

Brian

Edited by BKOLFO4

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Thanks, I like your suggestion. I'm thinking of just expanding the port to 3" and the 10" piece down to 7" to get it closer to the 32-35 Hz recommended rating for the BTL. My only concern now is the baffle. With only a 13" clearance (subtract .75" for the top and another .75" for the bottom), I'm down to only 11.5" high for the baffle. Not big enough to cut a whole out in the sub. Looks like I'll have to mount the sub on top.

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Sub cutout is only 11.125, and the sub outer diameter is 12.5, so the 13" baffle will work fine.

The box above is 2.25 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz.

A 3" wide port and a 7" long rear port wall with a 19" box depth is 2.18 ft^3 tuned to 36 Hz. Go ahead and make the the box depth 19.75". You will then have 2.3 ft^3 tuned to 35 Hz.

Brian

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13" - .75" - .75" = 11.5" You need a hole that is 11.125" and the sub is 12.5", so it should fit.

Brian

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I hope I'm not being difficult. My concern was that with the baffle only 11.5" high, cutting a hole 11.125" would leave too little MDF (under a quarter inch) above and below the cut out that it would crack when the sub starts hitting.

BTW, thanks for the really quick responses. I plan on building the box this weekend (and hopefully the BTL I ordered arrives by then).

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Why is that? Doubled baffle and the mounting flange of the sub will actually hang over the top and bottom piece. It will not be a problem. Just make sure you predrill the sub mounting screws.

If you really want the subs on top, I will need to make a slight change, since the front piece will not need to be doubled.

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Just to make sure I can clear the opening I figured I'd make the box with dimensions of 26x26x12 and have the sub facing up and the port facing towards the front (or some other direction if necessary). I still need help with the exact dimensions and a box diagram @ 35Hz. Looking around at various sites that have box calculators I'm getting different answers. Any idea?

Edited by shareef777

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sub back/front port side.

only way in a Mustang.

Had one, tested it.

Also, teh lower I tuned it, 35hz to 32hz to 30hz, made big difference to ear.

Edited by ford302redneck

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I don't follow. Which way should the sub face? What box dimensions did you have (specifically height) to get it to fit in the trunk?

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I cut teh top of teh opening where teh backseats come out at.

I could fit 14in tall 31wide.

I also used 2 4in aero ports.

I did 14x16.5x31 i think and 2 4in ports 27in long.

Thats around 2.5cuft tuned to 30hz.

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Ok, I'm not looking to cut anything out the car. I removed the back seats and figured I can get 13" high with that. Oh well, thanks anyway.

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Had two mustangs. New models have thick rear seats that fold down. Best bass without cutting is going to be the subs front, ports front with the rear seats folded down.

If you are going to do subs up, you need at least 2" of clearance on the top side of the box for the subs. So are you saying the total height of the box with the subs installed can only be 12"??

Brian

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The height is 13" high. Removing 1.5" for the top and bottom panels, that'll leave me with a baffle that is 11.5" high. I just don't think that the 11.5" high baffle will hold the sub securely or last too long.

The alternate solution would be to mount the baffle outside the top, bottom, and side panels which would keep it 13" high, but how secure would the baffle be sitting outside the panels?

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When I was talking about cutting, it isn't nothing major.

When you take the backseats out, youll see exactly what I cut. Its 1inch by 30inchs.

IMO, you'll never notice it was there, after the cut.

But, Like I stated before, sub back port side, was loudest on the meter, and sub forward port side was loudest to ear.

This was with 1 12 Q and Sundown SAZ1500d.

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What tool would I need to cut it? All I have are the basics. I'm getting the wood cut at Home Depot so I don't have anything at my disposal.

Figured if I build a box 26x26x12 and mount the sub facing up, that'll give me ~4 cubic feet after the displacement by the wood and sub. I'd have another 1-1.5 cubic feet to use for the port.

Now, with a 26x26x12 box, how/where should I place/face the port so that it takes only 1-1.5 cubes and what are it's dimensions so that the sub is tuned to 32-35Hz?

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