Building my first ported box

[dropkick13 0]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often.

btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws.

[mrray13 30]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often.

btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws.

flaws?????? hush your mouth child.

just kidding. but for real, textured paint/finish does indeed allow for a little leeway in outside finishing.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often.

btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws.

flaws?????? hush your mouth child.

just kidding. but for real, textured paint/finish does indeed allow for a little leeway in outside finishing.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah, yes flaws! Even you can't avoid them all. I was painting another box and when I went inside to let the coat dry, I came back out and found that a bird did not appreciate my work as much as I did. Shat right on it.

[mrray13 30]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often.

btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

No rush. I had a similar idea for the boxes I built for my MTX Black Gold's. I used a high impact black spray paint. Came out looking really nice. Had the same textured look of spray bed liner with a little white too. Problem was that every time cargo or a passenger kicked the box, paint would chip. I'm sure bed liner would look great, won't chip, and the texture of it will make it so you don't have to putty/sand any screw holes or any flaws.

flaws?????? hush your mouth child.

just kidding. but for real, textured paint/finish does indeed allow for a little leeway in outside finishing.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah, yes flaws! Even you can't avoid them all. I was painting another box and when I went inside to let the coat dry, I came back out and found that a bird did not appreciate my work as much as I did. Shat right on it.

lmao. so glad i have a garage and a understanding wife!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[///M5 2,833]

Better on your box than in your hair.

[dropkick13 0]

Better on your box than in your hair.

very true

[dropkick13 0]

Well no thanks to Kent who wouldn't sell me his subs, I have finally gotten my amp and sub (assuming all deals go through)

JBL BP1200.1 and a RL-P12 D4. Now it's time to focus back on the box.

Sean, Kent and anyone else who knows what they are talking about....I need you guys to fight it out over what sacrifices I need to make on the box.

Between MDF vs PVC ports: PVC is way easier and I guess will take up less volume inside the box, MDF is ...ummm better maybe?

3/4" vs 1/2" MDF: If 1/2", should I brace? Maybe I can brace the outside of the box across the back?

I will be fiberglassing the hump to get a touch more space

Kent, can you give me your dimensions when you get a chance?

Edited December 5, 2007 by dropkick13

[///M5 2,833]

Hey, you already have my response...

[dropkick13 0]

Yep, Admittedly I forgot to check SS's recommendations for box sizes and as Sean pointed out, I only need 1.5-1.8 cu ft. This should be attainable with 3/4" MDF. I'll probably do a PVC port because of the complexity of fabricating the MDF port over the hump so I guess the last question is, will I need to brace the 3/4" at all?

[mrray13 30]

no thanks to me? lol, sorry, but i just can't let go of those two beautiful subs.

i will try to get my box measured tonight after work for ya. and the pvc for the port, or an aeroport, will go a long way in helping maintain box volume. and even with 3/4", you'll want to brace the long panels, especially the top. that's where it's most likely to flex.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

Sounds good, would a 3" wide piece of 3/4" be a sturdy brace?

[///M5 2,833]

threaded rod takes much less space than wood

[dropkick13 0]

......perfectionist. Do you drill through the MDF for it? That stuff splits easy....

[///M5 2,833]

of course, and then seal it with a sludge of woodglue and mdf dust

[dropkick13 0]

I hope you are as picky with your women as you are your car audio...but then maybe your eyes aren't as sensitive as your ears

[dropkick13 0]

Will it make a huge difference if I use 1/2" MDF for the mounting location as opposed to 3/4" like the rest of the box? I am starting to worry about mounting depth.

Kent, the back of the box is only 8" tall so how did you get your required mounting depth?

8" - the 1/2" MDF thickness (times two) - the 2" for feet = 5"

I understand if you mount the sub as close to the front of the box as possible, I'll have a little more than the 8" but I still don't see how you found 6.5" for your ICON....let alone the 7" I need for the RL-p.

Also, will fiberglass eat through Al foil? I'm worried about getting that slop in my truck so I might paper mache a mold and then fiberglass the mold. Rabbit wire might work too for a mold

Oh yea, I am only going to do 1" feet to help some. Is that enough space for the sub to 'breathe.' It's max excursion is rated to be a little under an inch so I'm sure I'll be ok with that but I'm not sure if more room is required for sound clarity or something.

Edited December 24, 2007 by dropkick13

[dropkick13 0]

Also, the Xmax of the RL-p12 is 1". For this clearance, do I measure the floor to the top of the baffle or is it from the floor to tip of the surround?

If that was confusing, the same question could be asked:

Is Xmax measured from the baffle or is it measured from where the surround lays when not under power (off)?

There's about a 1/4" difference between the baffle and the surround and like I said, I'm having some issues with mounting depth, so I'm really shooting for the minimum clearance the sub will need.

[///M5 2,833]

The baffle should be the thickest part of the box. The skinniest I use is 1.5"...

As for clearance, for a downfire I personally would like to see a minimum of 3" but a little more is better. You need more clearance than for just the excursion of the sub.

*yes your seat has to go up.

[dropkick13 0]

Actually, I can increase the thickness of the problem of the baffle no problem, so that should not be a worry. The 7" mounting depth plus 3" clearance seems like it might be impossible though.

[mrray13 30]

ok, i'm going to disagree with sean here.

one, i've used 1/2" for more then a dozen of this style box (underseat), all the way around in daily drivers. not a single box has yet to fall apart or fail to impress the owners. ask iluvJDM, he has a box identical to mine. is sean's way the correct way? in a perfect world. but trying to port a 12" driver under the seat isn't the perfect install place.

yes, you can raise your seat to get added clearance, no problem. but it will make rear seat passangers unhappy, and if you don't care about them, just remove the seat. then you have all the room in the world.

use two inch legs. and keep the baffle parallel with the floor. yes, it will affect some tuning having the sub face that close, but the ICON doesn't reach it with full power, and i doubt anyone can hear the difference. and as long as the pole vent can breathe, you should be ok. sure, it would be great to have at least the diameter of the pole from any wall, but again, we are trying for ported under a seat with a 12".

and drop, i'll have to measure again, it might be 8.5" at the rear.

i guess what i'm trying to say here is that with proper planning, proper bracing, and a good build, one can indeed get away with doing it the "lesser" way. i'd absolutely love to see the room to build it the way sean likes too under a seat and ported, but he's not a basshead. he's building to enhance lowend, not exaggerate it.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

Fortunately the RL-p does not require too much air space, so I can actually get away with using 1/2" and then gluing that to more 1/2'' (so 1") for the entire box EXCEPT for where my sub is located because of the mounting depth. My RL-p has a bit more depth than your ICON; about 1/2" more so those 2'' feet will have to be cut to 1.5''. Kent, in your opinion, will this work? If not, I will either sacrifice output and do an upfiring box or have to tweak some more to see what I can do.

O yea, kind of important: how much clearance should I leave between the magnet and the top of the box? Or do I not need any?

Thanks for the help guys. In a way, your opinions are complete opposites, but I'm valuing them both a whole lot in trying to get this project designed and built. Hell, maybe I'll build one design and when I get the time, build the other and sell whichever I don't like as much. I guess that's what this hobby is all about anyway: trying out different things and never being satisfied.

[mrray13 30]

neither of our opinions are wrong, they are just for two different purposes. you have to remember, he builds as hobby and for sq only. i had to build for a living and to get it as loud as possible in as little space as possible. he can give up more because he is looking for fill, not output.

ok, 1.5 won't work. you need 2. if the rl-p is that deep (i'll have to measure mine and see) then upfiring is your only choice. without raising your seat. and i don't think you'll give up output either. ask sean about the 4 upfiring sealed 10s i did have, lol.

and as far as motor to box room, you really need the width of the pole vent difference, but you can get away with as little as 1/4". again, it's what you can give up to achieve a goal.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

Ok, you say I need 2". Is that for the feet, or is that for the distance between the surround and the carpet? I think I can get feet that are 2" but the surround extends .8" from the baffle not even under power so 2" feet gives 1.2" clearance. Make sense? You are right about being able to increase the rear height of the box to 8.5", but I have to move the box in about 1" on each side to avoid hitting the seat frame....not a big deal.

[///M5 2,833]

I hope you are as picky with your women as you are your car audio...but then maybe your eyes aren't as sensitive as your ears

Ha, just saw this. I am picky about everything. Just one of those assholes...

He meant 2" legs, as for the height on the front you can go even higher as the seat can "rest" on your box as well.

[dropkick13 0]

Sean, do you agree with Kent that not a whole lot of output would be lost if I upfrire rather than downfire? I have been reading up on the difference between the two (acoustically) and it seems like the output difference would be more dramatic if the box downfired onto a hard surface, not as much on a 'squishy' carpet. What do you think? Obviously I'm not looking for a unit of measure but just a "no, not a lot of difference" or "well, there will still probably be a substantial difference"