Building my first ported box

[///M5 2,833]

Sean would run sealed and not have anywhere near the output you are asking for but what he would recommend for you isn't what he'd do. Do the outsides in 3/4 and the port in a 1/2 other than the first wall which is an enclosure wall.

[dropkick13 0]

Sean would run sealed and not have anywhere near the output you are asking for but what he would recommend for you isn't what he'd do. Do the outsides in 3/4 and the port in a 1/2 other than the first wall which is an enclosure wall.

SQ freak....no fun

hmmmm....sealed would be a lot easier. How much output are those Diyma's good for? They got to be better than the MTX black gold's I was running

[///M5 2,833]

Sean would run sealed and not have anywhere near the output you are asking for but what he would recommend for you isn't what he'd do. Do the outsides in 3/4 and the port in a 1/2 other than the first wall which is an enclosure wall.

SQ freak....no fun

hmmmm....sealed would be a lot easier. How much output are those Diyma's good for? They got to be better than the MTX black gold's I was running

Not so sure about that, they are severely output limited and regrettably when you turn them up and run them hard they fail. They aren't so nice at letting you know their limits.

[dropkick13 0]

Sean would run sealed and not have anywhere near the output you are asking for but what he would recommend for you isn't what he'd do. Do the outsides in 3/4 and the port in a 1/2 other than the first wall which is an enclosure wall.

SQ freak....no fun

hmmmm....sealed would be a lot easier. How much output are those Diyma's good for? They got to be better than the MTX black gold's I was running

Not so sure about that, they are severely output limited and regrettably when you turn them up and run them hard they fail. They aren't so nice at letting you know their limits.

Well hopefully they will become someone else's burden soon. Those black golds are pretty nice little subs. They exceeded my expectations by far....of course...just wasn't enough. Ever hear them?

[///M5 2,833]

not recently

[dropkick13 0]

back to the box,

I should be able to get the job done with my space restrictions if i use 1/2" MDF for the port? How thick will the fiberglass face be when finished? I think the 10" MDF (3/4") sealed boxes I made allowed for a mounting depth of 6.5" but probably could have made them slightly bigger so say 6.75"

[mrray13 30]

i'm sorry, but you guys are way overcomplicating this. there is easily 2 cubes under the seat using 1/2" mdf, braces and a pvc port. and that's downfiring a sub, ala SSA ICON. and true, while sean doesn't care for peaky, and might pickup on port noise, i honestly can't hear neither in my truck. which, btw, is an 2004 silverado xcab.

i've also done four upfiring tens sealed, two tens w/rear fired 3" ports, downfired subs, four foward firing 8L7s with side fired ports and the current single 12 downfired sub with 4" side fired port. the 4 8s were the loudest setup, but also tuned the highest. the two ported tens were very nice ( i have also done a single down fired 10 with a side fired port) and loud, sean heard the 10s sealed an i love the deepness and responsiveness of the ICON in this current box. and the port doesn't need to turn either.

of course, i'm more of a basshead then sean. and with my ears not being as sensitive, i don't here the box flexing any at all. especially in this low power, 1100wrms, situation.

i'm sorry, i don't doubt sean and his attention to complete detail. however, coming from someone who did this for a living, 1/2" mdf in this situation is more then adequate. in about 20 overall builds, i have yet to see anyone unhappy about the performance of any of my boxes built in this fashion, for these trucks.

btw, if you think you can swing 4 8L7s, i know where there is a box already built. just needs carpet and the ports reattached.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

i'm sorry, but you guys are way overcomplicating this. there is easily 2 cubes under the seat using 1/2" mdf, braces and a pvc port. and that's downfiring a sub, ala SSA ICON. and true, while sean doesn't care for peaky, and might pickup on port noise, i honestly can't hear neither in my truck. which, btw, is an 2004 silverado xcab.

i've also done four upfiring tens sealed, two tens w/rear fired 3" ports, downfired subs, four foward firing 8L7s with side fired ports and the current single 12 downfired sub with 4" side fired port. the 4 8s were the loudest setup, but also tuned the highest. the two ported tens were very nice ( i have also done a single down fired 10 with a side fired port) and loud, sean heard the 10s sealed an i love the deepness and responsiveness of the ICON in this current box. and the port doesn't need to turn either.

of course, i'm more of a basshead then sean. and with my ears not being as sensitive, i don't here the box flexing any at all. especially in this low power, 1100wrms, situation.

i'm sorry, i don't doubt sean and his attention to complete detail. however, coming from someone who did this for a living, 1/2" mdf in this situation is more then adequate. in about 20 overall builds, i have yet to see anyone unhappy about the performance of any of my boxes built in this fashion, for these trucks.

btw, if you think you can swing 4 8L7s, i know where there is a box already built. just needs carpet and the ports reattached.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Did you use fiberglass at all or did you just make kind of a trapezoid over the hump with MDF? Also, are all these different applications using the same amp? I've always been told to never use anything less than 3/4" MDF but I have no experience with anything else so I'll let Sean argue with that. Using 1/2" would definitely make it easier to reach a desired volume though.

Interesting about the two 10's in a ported box. What were those? How much airspace did they end up with?

As for the L7's....out of my budget. One of the tough limitations I have with this set up is that I'm pretty strapped. I am trying to sell two brand new Diyma 12's. Basically whatever I get for those is what I'll have to spend on sub/s. I have a blown Viper amp that I'm trying to sell and I'll use that money plus like $100-$150 for an amp, and obviously I plan on building my box. So yea, money and airspace are my limitations but you seem to think airspace won't be a problem. Hopefully you are correct.

[mrray13 30]

i'm sorry, but you guys are way overcomplicating this. there is easily 2 cubes under the seat using 1/2" mdf, braces and a pvc port. and that's downfiring a sub, ala SSA ICON. and true, while sean doesn't care for peaky, and might pickup on port noise, i honestly can't hear neither in my truck. which, btw, is an 2004 silverado xcab.

i've also done four upfiring tens sealed, two tens w/rear fired 3" ports, downfired subs, four foward firing 8L7s with side fired ports and the current single 12 downfired sub with 4" side fired port. the 4 8s were the loudest setup, but also tuned the highest. the two ported tens were very nice ( i have also done a single down fired 10 with a side fired port) and loud, sean heard the 10s sealed an i love the deepness and responsiveness of the ICON in this current box. and the port doesn't need to turn either.

of course, i'm more of a basshead then sean. and with my ears not being as sensitive, i don't here the box flexing any at all. especially in this low power, 1100wrms, situation.

i'm sorry, i don't doubt sean and his attention to complete detail. however, coming from someone who did this for a living, 1/2" mdf in this situation is more then adequate. in about 20 overall builds, i have yet to see anyone unhappy about the performance of any of my boxes built in this fashion, for these trucks.

btw, if you think you can swing 4 8L7s, i know where there is a box already built. just needs carpet and the ports reattached.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Did you use fiberglass at all or did you just make kind of a trapezoid over the hump with MDF? Also, are all these different applications using the same amp? I've always been told to never use anything less than 3/4" MDF but I have no experience with anything else so I'll let Sean argue with that. Using 1/2" would definitely make it easier to reach a desired volume though.

Interesting about the two 10's in a ported box. What were those? How much airspace did they end up with?

As for the L7's....out of my budget. One of the tough limitations I have with this set up is that I'm pretty strapped. I am trying to sell two brand new Diyma 12's. Basically whatever I get for those is what I'll have to spend on sub/s. I have a blown Viper amp that I'm trying to sell and I'll use that money plus like $100-$150 for an amp, and obviously I plan on building my box. So yea, money and airspace are my limitations but you seem to think airspace won't be a problem. Hopefully you are correct.

it's all wood, no glass. and in my truck, i've had as many amps in there as i've had subs, lol. it's my test bed, kinda.

as far as 3/4" vs 1/2", i'd use 3/4" all day, every day if one could get the desired volume with it. however, trucks are a different beast, and getting the necessary volume isn't always easy. with a good build and a solid brace (s), 1/2" mdf will work in alot of situations where it's just not plausible to use anything thicker. as far as flexing goes, if all that does is had a bit of peakiness to it, then (as i'm sure sean will agree) if your after output, it's not a bad thing necessarly. if the box is built properly, it'll last.

the two 10" box housed memphis hpo and then m3s. ~1cube each tuned about 35-36hz with a 3" port. for a basshead, it sounds great, for a sq guy like sean, it would be peaky and a bit overwhelming compared to the rest of the system.

i'll see if i can't find thsoe pics....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[mrray13 30]

looking at the bottom, from the top, lol

drivers side

passanger side, and the 4" pvc port (with a semi flare on each end)

notice the sub sid is up off the floor while the passanger side goes all the way down. it's a bit tricky of a build, but nothing seriously rough.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

i'm sorry, but you guys are way overcomplicating this. there is easily 2 cubes under the seat using 1/2" mdf, braces and a pvc port. and that's downfiring a sub, ala SSA ICON. and true, while sean doesn't care for peaky, and might pickup on port noise, i honestly can't hear neither in my truck. which, btw, is an 2004 silverado xcab.

i've also done four upfiring tens sealed, two tens w/rear fired 3" ports, downfired subs, four foward firing 8L7s with side fired ports and the current single 12 downfired sub with 4" side fired port. the 4 8s were the loudest setup, but also tuned the highest. the two ported tens were very nice ( i have also done a single down fired 10 with a side fired port) and loud, sean heard the 10s sealed an i love the deepness and responsiveness of the ICON in this current box. and the port doesn't need to turn either.

of course, i'm more of a basshead then sean. and with my ears not being as sensitive, i don't here the box flexing any at all. especially in this low power, 1100wrms, situation.

i'm sorry, i don't doubt sean and his attention to complete detail. however, coming from someone who did this for a living, 1/2" mdf in this situation is more then adequate. in about 20 overall builds, i have yet to see anyone unhappy about the performance of any of my boxes built in this fashion, for these trucks.

btw, if you think you can swing 4 8L7s, i know where there is a box already built. just needs carpet and the ports reattached.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Did you use fiberglass at all or did you just make kind of a trapezoid over the hump with MDF? Also, are all these different applications using the same amp? I've always been told to never use anything less than 3/4" MDF but I have no experience with anything else so I'll let Sean argue with that. Using 1/2" would definitely make it easier to reach a desired volume though.

Interesting about the two 10's in a ported box. What were those? How much airspace did they end up with?

As for the L7's....out of my budget. One of the tough limitations I have with this set up is that I'm pretty strapped. I am trying to sell two brand new Diyma 12's. Basically whatever I get for those is what I'll have to spend on sub/s. I have a blown Viper amp that I'm trying to sell and I'll use that money plus like $100-$150 for an amp, and obviously I plan on building my box. So yea, money and airspace are my limitations but you seem to think airspace won't be a problem. Hopefully you are correct.

it's all wood, no glass. and in my truck, i've had as many amps in there as i've had subs, lol. it's my test bed, kinda.

as far as 3/4" vs 1/2", i'd use 3/4" all day, every day if one could get the desired volume with it. however, trucks are a different beast, and getting the necessary volume isn't always easy. with a good build and a solid brace (s), 1/2" mdf will work in alot of situations where it's just not plausible to use anything thicker. as far as flexing goes, if all that does is had a bit of peakiness to it, then (as i'm sure sean will agree) if your after output, it's not a bad thing necessarly. if the box is built properly, it'll last.

the two 10" box housed memphis hpo and then m3s. ~1cube each tuned about 35-36hz with a 3" port. for a basshead, it sounds great, for a sq guy like sean, it would be peaky and a bit overwhelming compared to the rest of the system.

i'll see if i can't find thsoe pics....

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Im probably in between a basshead and an SQ guy then. What I told Sean is that basically I want some subs that can play fast, clean, and keep up with my double bass in the punk music which I listen to often but I still really like to have that deep, loud, vibrating the hairs on the back of your neck bass for my reggae and I even like that for some metal. So with that said, Sean recommended something along the lines of a Fi Q 12" ported tuned to 35hz. So that's where we're at now, except I'm learning a whole lot and real fast so I have not yet committed to buying anything. I've been leaning on Sean to help me pick out a good deal on somethin. If you want to help too, I'm all for it and I appreciate it

[mrray13 30]

sean knows his shit, lol. i'd also recommend teh soundsplinter rl-p12, the ICON 12 and the SI BM 12. to save a bit of money, you could go mach5 maw12, but you'll have to go less power as well. of those four, i own three and it's only the BM that i'm going by other's peoples thoughts.

but leaning on sean (you'd better be about 6'8" to really lean on him, lol. that skrawny honky is 6'6" or so) isn't a bad move.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

looking at the bottom, from the top, lol

drivers side

passanger side, and the 4" pvc port (with a semi flare on each end)

notice the sub sid is up off the floor while the passanger side goes all the way down. it's a bit tricky of a build, but nothing seriously rough.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

That looks really good. Unless I run into a time crunch (which is very possible), I'll probably stick to fiberglassing the bottom to get over the hump even if I only fiberglass over the hump and leave MDF for the rest of the bottom underneath driver/passenger sides. I'm excited to try my hand at it and learn something new and it will look that much cleaner (assuming I don't suck). I think I could handle something like that though. You don't have any pictures of the port from inside do you?

[dropkick13 0]

sean knows his chit, lol. i'd also recommend teh soundsplinter rl-p12, the ICON 12 and the SI BM 12. to save a bit of money, you could go mach5 maw12, but you'll have to go less power as well. of those four, i own three and it's only the BM that i'm going by other's peoples thoughts.

but leaning on sean (you'd better be about 6'8" to really lean on him, lol. that skrawny honky is 6'6" or so) isn't a bad move.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

That's good to know. Since I am buying used, that will help me expand my selection and try to get a better deal. Sean, I'm waiting on you to chime in on this though.

I almost bought the MAW's instead of the Diymas...o well...figures.

[///M5 2,833]

You remember when I wouldn't answer my thoughts, as stated when Brandon originally started asking about things he was asking for SQ but in hearing his desires I really think that somewhere (no surprise to me) that the definition of SQ was again completely screwed. In the process someone convinced him to buy two DIYMA's which won't do what he wants at all. As I said earlier, your style of box Kent is probably more than adequate for what he is looking for but as you know for me it isn't. No big deal, most people don't have to like what I do but accuracy is extremely critical to me. Do realize I am the extreme (more than 25 years of private music lessons might do that to ya ) but again exactly why I *refrained* from posting before. Hell look at my boxes, 22sqin of port on an 8 and yes I can still hear it chuff and it annoys me, it is also tuned below 30hz but still too peaky for my liking. All the more reasons why I am encouraging beyond my goals for Brandon's system although I would still recommend making more "complicated" than your typical install. Of course considering how quick you could whack that box out perhaps it would be an ideal start to see if it was okay. A bit of glue and a sheet of mdf isn't all that much of an investment. And just so you know Brandon, Kent's ability to create boxes and switch things around is significantly faster than mine and more experienced in the realm of construction. As he stated he has done this for a living while for me it is just an insane hobby.

[mrray13 30]

You remember when I wouldn't answer my thoughts, as stated when Brandon originally started asking about things he was asking for SQ but in hearing his desires I really think that somewhere (no surprise to me) that the definition of SQ was again completely screwed. In the process someone convinced him to buy two DIYMA's which won't do what he wants at all. As I said earlier, your style of box Kent is probably more than adequate for what he is looking for but as you know for me it isn't. No big deal, most people don't have to like what I do but accuracy is extremely critical to me. Do realize I am the extreme (more than 25 years of private music lessons might do that to ya ) but again exactly why I *refrained* from posting before. Hell look at my boxes, 22sqin of port on an 8 and yes I can still hear it chuff and it annoys me, it is also tuned below 30hz but still too peaky for my liking. All the more reasons why I am encouraging beyond my goals for Brandon's system although I would still recommend making more "complicated" than your typical install. Of course considering how quick you could whack that box out perhaps it would be an ideal start to see if it was okay. A bit of glue and a sheet of mdf isn't all that much of an investment. And just so you know Brandon, Kent's ability to create boxes and switch things around is significantly faster than mine and more experienced in the realm of construction. As he stated he has done this for a living while for me it is just an insane hobby.

makes sense. but only serves to help brandon grow and hopefully, realize his goals and the path to get there. having two opinions of such different ideas, yet both very acceptable (and not the wrong way), should only help him, after confusing him a bit first.

long story short brandon, sean has talked to you much more then i, so knows your ultimate goals a bit better. sean is also, as he points out, far more particular then i when it comes to sound and build. he is going to take the high road,leading to a very well, if not overbuilt, product. while i'll take the road that leads to a good quality build, but more then likely, not overbuilt, unless we get to extreme power levels. at which point i'm all for 1" mdf, screws and bracing.

i think both of our views can be correct, it just depends upon the path brandon wants to go. not planning on switching things out much? i'd probably build sean's way. not for sure this is going to be a permanant setup? i'd lean my way.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[mrray13 30]

looking at the bottom, from the top, lol

drivers side

passanger side, and the 4" pvc port (with a semi flare on each end)

notice the sub sid is up off the floor while the passanger side goes all the way down. it's a bit tricky of a build, but nothing seriously rough.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

That looks really good. Unless I run into a time crunch (which is very possible), I'll probably stick to fiberglassing the bottom to get over the hump even if I only fiberglass over the hump and leave MDF for the rest of the bottom underneath driver/passenger sides. I'm excited to try my hand at it and learn something new and it will look that much cleaner (assuming I don't suck). I think I could handle something like that though. You don't have any pictures of the port from inside do you?

you can glass over the hump, or as i've thought about doing, cut a piece of 2" pvc in half, notch the box accordingly and secure it with resin and screws.

also, no inside pics. but the port is 11.5" long, IIRC, and its liquid nailed and screwed to the box.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[///M5 2,833]

The other option would be to have Kent build you a box, send it to you and see if you like it. If not, I am sure you could sell his work on FSC pretty quickly. It will definitely be way better than any pre-fab crap.

[dropkick13 0]

You remember when I wouldn't answer my thoughts, as stated when Brandon originally started asking about things he was asking for SQ but in hearing his desires I really think that somewhere (no surprise to me) that the definition of SQ was again completely screwed. In the process someone convinced him to buy two DIYMA's which won't do what he wants at all. As I said earlier, your style of box Kent is probably more than adequate for what he is looking for but as you know for me it isn't. No big deal, most people don't have to like what I do but accuracy is extremely critical to me. Do realize I am the extreme (more than 25 years of private music lessons might do that to ya ) but again exactly why I *refrained* from posting before. Hell look at my boxes, 22sqin of port on an 8 and yes I can still hear it chuff and it annoys me, it is also tuned below 30hz but still too peaky for my liking. All the more reasons why I am encouraging beyond my goals for Brandon's system although I would still recommend making more "complicated" than your typical install. Of course considering how quick you could whack that box out perhaps it would be an ideal start to see if it was okay. A bit of glue and a sheet of mdf isn't all that much of an investment. And just so you know Brandon, Kent's ability to create boxes and switch things around is significantly faster than mine and more experienced in the realm of construction. As he stated he has done this for a living while for me it is just an insane hobby.

I'll probably just try and do everything right the first time. Like I said before, I'll be tackling this project over xmas break so I should have a good 3 weeks to work on it. If I just whack out an MDF box and I'm not happy, I won't be able to rebuild till the summer. But then again, if I can't get the volume then I'll have no choice but to go the 1/2" MDF route. I saw a seat lifter kit that gets an extra 2.5" With that, I should be golden. Yes I know I don't need the kit to lift the seat but remember I cut those dam tabs on the back and the kit comes with longer tabs.

Sean, do you agree with Kent's alternative sub selection?

[mrray13 30]

You remember when I wouldn't answer my thoughts, as stated when Brandon originally started asking about things he was asking for SQ but in hearing his desires I really think that somewhere (no surprise to me) that the definition of SQ was again completely screwed. In the process someone convinced him to buy two DIYMA's which won't do what he wants at all. As I said earlier, your style of box Kent is probably more than adequate for what he is looking for but as you know for me it isn't. No big deal, most people don't have to like what I do but accuracy is extremely critical to me. Do realize I am the extreme (more than 25 years of private music lessons might do that to ya ) but again exactly why I *refrained* from posting before. Hell look at my boxes, 22sqin of port on an 8 and yes I can still hear it chuff and it annoys me, it is also tuned below 30hz but still too peaky for my liking. All the more reasons why I am encouraging beyond my goals for Brandon's system although I would still recommend making more "complicated" than your typical install. Of course considering how quick you could whack that box out perhaps it would be an ideal start to see if it was okay. A bit of glue and a sheet of mdf isn't all that much of an investment. And just so you know Brandon, Kent's ability to create boxes and switch things around is significantly faster than mine and more experienced in the realm of construction. As he stated he has done this for a living while for me it is just an insane hobby.

I'll probably just try and do everything right the first time. Like I said before, I'll be tackling this project over xmas break so I should have a good 3 weeks to work on it. If I just whack out an MDF box and I'm not happy, I won't be able to rebuild till the summer. But then again, if I can't get the volume then I'll have no choice but to go the 1/2" MDF route. I saw a seat lifter kit that gets an extra 2.5" With that, I should be golden. Yes I know I don't need the kit to lift the seat but remember I cut those dam tabs on the back and the kit comes with longer tabs.

Sean, do you agree with Kent's alternative sub selection?

they make a kit to lift the seat? oh shit.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[///M5 2,833]

Most definitely, I was never trying to make you lock on a Fi. Unitl this past week I hadn't heard the ICON but had the opportunity while in Phoenix and was impressed.

[dropkick13 0]

Most definitely, I was never trying to make you lock on a Fi. Unitl this past week I hadn't heard the ICON but had the opportunity while in Phoenix and was impressed.

That's not a bad idea just having Kent throw one together for me but the whole low budget thing comes back into play. Plus, i got a pretty good connection at Home Depot as long as I don't abuse it too much so even fiberglass shouldn't run me much. But Kent, I guess if you offer, let me know a quote for what you think a box from you would run me shipped to 21035.

Kent, someone does make a seat lift kit but I believe it's pretty over priced for what you are actually getting. Nice kit from what I heard. The clips are perfect length so that you can fold the back of the seat down too. I gotta hit the rack right now but I'll try to track it down for you tomorrow.

You guys need to learn how to repair amps. I can't even sell this blown viper as a paper weight.

[mrray13 30]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

[dropkick13 0]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

Edited November 19, 2007 by dropkick13

[mrray13 30]

hmmmm...

i'll hit you with a pm tomorrow, as i'm off to bed as well. you mind buying a used enclosure? all this talk of building as me wanting to redo mine, lol.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

hah yea that would be just fine, especially if it saves me a dollar. I think I might try to build one anyway just for the fun and experience. If I get yours, I can just try to mimic it except I want to use some fiberglass just to learn it.

what's your plan for the new box? Cut PVC at the hump?

not just that, but fit the trans hump a little better. maybe paint instead of carpet, or bed liner. like sean mentioned, i really like to change things up quite often.

btw, i'll pm you a price a bit later on today.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee