Dorm Setup (Revisited)

[JimJ 11]

If you want a whizzerless, high efficiency solution, the Fostex Sigmas are the way to go, though with that Adcom you'll send them to the moon if you aren't careful.

[MKader17 332]

I think the sigmas are out of my price range.

Does AudioSource make a good amplifier?

[JimJ 11]

The little black box with the analog meters in the center is an AudioSource Seven T-amp...to be honest I wasn't impressed at all. Just didn't sound...right, too harsh.

[MKader17 332]

Thanks for the heads up... truthfully, I think you need some more speakers.

As far as brands of amps go I know adcom, dynaco, crown, and qsc, any more you would care to add?

[JimJ 11]

Thanks for the heads up... truthfully, I think you need some more speakers.

Those aren't mine, that's at a friend's house in NC

any more you would care to add?

Hmmm....

Decware, Bottlehead, Wellborne Labs, Rotel, Parasound, Marantz, Antique Sound Labs, Transcendant Sound, Audio Research, Conrad Johnson, NAD, Cary Audio, Rogue Audio, Counterpoint, Sonic Frontiers, BAT, Classe, Forte, Krell, Hafler, B&K, Bryston, Outlaw Audio, etc, etc...

[///M5 2,833]

he did say around $100 though, which makes the Adcom a good choice.

[MKader17 332]

I really like the style of some of that Marantz equipment. Would you guys be weary of buying some of the older stuff?

Something like this: Vintage Original Marantz 2270

Edited November 13, 2007 by MKader17

[///M5 2,833]

They have made a lot of nice gear. The one thing nice with the Adcom amp is you can always just upgrade the pre-amp later if you want to upgrade. Integrated pieces end up as garage stereos or something later on other wise.

[MKader17 332]

Are there any downsides to a tuner/pre-amp?

[JimJ 11]

Just takes up more space, that's about the only "downside" I can think of.

[MKader17 332]

I'm thinking about picking this Adcom GTP-400 Tuner/Preamp up. I really don't care to buy something thats closing in on 20 years old but maybe old school quality applies as it does in car audio? or maybe its just because the products reside in a less stressful enviroment

[JimJ 11]

but maybe old school quality applies as it does in car audio?

Why wouldn't it

Unless you have a near-infinite budget, the value of older and vintage stuff can't be ignored. Especially when there's so much mass-market crap that's being produced today.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

I really like the style of some of that Marantz equipment. Would you guys be weary of buying some of the older stuff?

Something like this: Vintage Original Marantz 2270

I have an old Pioneer similar to that.

[///M5 2,833]

Teh only bummer with the Adcom's is the remote or regular lack of. They also use non-standard codes so universals don't work either...

[MKader17 332]

Found a GTP-400 with remote and a GTP-500 without remote for the same price, any reason I shouldn't pick up the 400? Is 116 shipped a decent price?

[JimJ 11]

I had a remote with the Rogue 66, while it was cool I don't particularly miss it with the ARC that doesn't have one.

But then again I'm getting up to switch album sides every 25 minutes or so anyway

[MKader17 332]

**REVIVED**

I'm in the market for some BIB's Speekas (4-6") around $70 per driver is the range I'm looking for.

Going to be powered by a 535L through a GTP-450

Can't wait to build

[ANeonRider 3]

Only logical choice at that price... the CSS FR125S

[JimJ 11]

Well, the Fostex 166/167E's are around that price, so are the 108ES Sigmas

But with his amp power, there's no need for high efficiency, I'll agree. The FR125's would be great here.

[ANeonRider 3]

If he was tOOOObed, I'd agree with the Fostex's.

[MKader17 332]

I started this thread 3 months ago and nothing has changed, except I'm actually able to by the stuff

I just can't warm up to the whizzer cone. If those sigmas were in my budget that would be the ticket, but unfortunately a little out of range

Nice to see the design summed up like this!

Using the dimensions I used for my BIB build:

Line length = 136"

1/2λ Fb = 50Hz

0.707*Fs(68Hz) = 48Hz

I was safe there

Vb = 29.16L

Vas = 5.8L

Qts = 0.64

20Vas*(Qts^1.25) = 20(5.8)*(0.64^1.25) = 116*0.572 = 66.352L

D/W ratio = 1.315:1

Good as well.

Driver location on baffle (So) = 36.5" from top

With line length of 68", that works out to 0.5367.

So moving on the the build itself. If you were to do it again Neon would you change anything?

I was also thinking about buying a sheet of some kind of wood, then a sheet of MDF, and use the wood on the front and staining it similar to the color of the scheme of the living room and then using the MDF for the rest and painting it black (like the scheme of the room)

But I'll probably scratch that idea when I see the price of a sheet of the wood , maybe some laminate instead since thats what the "wood" is in here I'm sure

[MKader17 332]

Been doing a lot of work on the Design portion of the BIB Build. I have decided on using MDF and ply, with the ply stained and the mdf painted black.

Some questions I have...

1.What is the best way to paint MDF? (I believe it was Topgun who had real good approach)

2.How do yourun the wiring? around the baffle or through it?

3.What is the best place to get speaker terminal cups?

4.What sheet of ply would be best for my application?and where do you usually get it?

5.Is the polyfill from Wal-Mart good enough ordo you prefer something else?

Thanks in advance. I now have every piece planned and am hoping to get in touch with someone with a nice table saw to help make it this weekend.

[topgun 262]

1. Use Shellac, Deft, or polyurathane to seal the 'wood' then do two coats of primer then two of color. I use rustoleum brand rattle cans, but thats me.

2. I just run the wiring up and around, but you could do either way.

3. I use binding posts from www.partsexpress.com I'm a big fan of the ones with the floating slug, the ones without I have troubles of them cutting the wire.

4. For something that you are actually going to stain and finish, use oak ply, its around 40 a sheet at home depot. If it isn't a structural sheet, and just for aesthetics, I'd use something thinner, like 1/4" oak ply or similar.

5. Yep, sure is, I normally get mine at hobby lobby though.

[topgun 262]

On the topic of sealing the wood, use multiple coats and sand/steel wool between the coats.

[MKader17 332]

The oak will be very important for structure but I think it will make for a much better look in the end and 40 isn't too bad

What do you mean by up and around? Up, would be going towards top/small end of the enclosure.

Shellac of Deft available at Lowes/Home Depot?