Assasain 8 troubles!

[filtor1 13]

As far as wiring, and don't take my word for it. Your final Ohm load should be either 1ohm or 4ohm. Assuming this is a pair of D4ohm Assassins.

[ACE2790 0]

Whats the current ohm load at right now?

[Audio Junkies 3]

Wow, I'm speechless over the title and the whole thread.

[ACE2790 0]

Well I was probably at fault for jumpin the gun about qualifying these subs as crap. I apologize, Im just really pissed that my 850 dollar setup, is crap.

I need to know the specifics on how these things should be wired up or something. I need to argue something with them

I give permission to change the title to something less subjective and accusing.

Edited September 7, 2007 by ACE2790

[ACE2790 0]

I just dont know what to do anymore, piss me off for sure...

[Audio Junkies 3]

I just dont know what to do anymore, piss me off for sure...

Straight up I would tell the shop to take all their shit out of the car and you want a refund. They obviously didn't do it the way you asked and who knows what they screwed up in addition to what has already been mentioned. You are running quality equipment so I doubt that is the issue. The install is the issue here.

If you were near me I would help you in a second.

Memphis Car Audio is actually in your state.

Call them up and tell them your situation. They should be able to help you or at least refer you to a good dealer who knows their shit.

Memphis Car Audio

122 Gayoso

Memphis, TN 38103

(800) 467-2400

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Wow... not sure what is going on either... nor will I simply chalk it up to the dealers install being poor (dont know if thats the case or not). I know what the subs can do in the proper setup, and they are rather capable for 8s.

Please send an email to [email protected] and I can get your phone and contact info. Let me know when would be a good time to call and I can go over a few things with you.

Thanks,

Scott

[ACE2790 0]

Hell yah, hopefully I'll hear from you before I go back to the shop tomorrow. I just wanna get this straightened out.

Email sent.

Edited September 7, 2007 by ACE2790

[theabunai 3]

Sending a memphis amp that is stable to only 2 ohms is probably the MAJOR issue here...

I suggest disconnecting the speakers immediately from the amp....

When you head into the shop ask to be present when they look over the install and equipment...

ask to see the READING on the DMM for the subs that go into the amp.....

If the reading says 1ohm then ask them for a refund immediately and explain to them that as "professionals" why would they send a 2 ohms stable amp a 1 ohm load...

If it says 4 ohms on the DMM then ask for an immediate refund since they have already been dishonest with you by saying it was a 1 ohm load... (i have seen this tactic by another shop before, you bring in outside subs, they wire it so it sounds like crap, then throw in one of theirs, wire it correctly, sounds good, you end up buying theirs since you think the outside brand sounds like crap)...

At half gain, the subs produced no sound at all. Amp is brand new as well.

If they sent a 1 ohm load to that amp it would produce no sound probably cause it was going into protect to avoid damage.....

Wiring: Subs wired at 2ohms each totaling 4ohms then bridged to 1ohm to the amp.

If the installer told you this ask them why they would send a 1 ohm load to a 2 ohm stable amp ??

Last of all i would pull out the subs and check the wiring... one coil could be out of phase and wired incorrectly... that may lead to subwoofer issues as well... make sure the coils are both wired correctly...

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Got your email. Ill give you a call tomorrow. Just to check here too... Cookeville is Central time correct? I know there is two time zones in TN.

[ACE2790 0]

Sending a memphis amp that is stable to only 2 ohms is probably the MAJOR issue here...

I suggest disconnecting the speakers immediately from the amp....

When you head into the shop ask to be present when they look over the install and equipment...

ask to see the READING on the DMM for the subs that go into the amp.....

If the reading says 1ohm then ask them for a refund immediately and explain to them that as "professionals" why would they send a 2 ohms stable amp a 1 ohm load...

If it says 4 ohms on the DMM then ask for an immediate refund since they have already been dishonest with you by saying it was a 1 ohm load... (i have seen this tactic by another shop before, you bring in outside subs, they wire it so it sounds like crap, then throw in one of theirs, wire it correctly, sounds good, you end up buying theirs since you think the outside brand sounds like crap)...

At half gain, the subs produced no sound at all. Amp is brand new as well.

If they sent a 1 ohm load to that amp it would produce no sound probably cause it was going into protect to avoid damage.....

Wiring: Subs wired at 2ohms each totaling 4ohms then bridged to 1ohm to the amp.

If the installer told you this ask them why they would send a 1 ohm load to a 2 ohm stable amp ??

Last of all i would pull out the subs and check the wiring... one coil could be out of phase and wired incorrectly... that may lead to subwoofer issues as well... make sure the coils are both wired correctly...

Can you explain the last part about coils and what not? More in detail so my beginner mind can kinda make sense of it?

[ACE2790 0]

The issue was resolved, Scott did an excellent job handling the situation and I give him huge credit for going above and beyond to take care of his customers. Thanks again man and I wish you and the company the best of luck!

[almond 0]

what was the problem??

[ACE2790 0]

Well, it was in fact the sub. We all know that subs are magnatized from the manufacturer and mine were not. I pulled the subs out and placed a drop forged steel wrench onto the back of the sub to find that there was NO magnetic activity what so ever.

[almond 0]

wow lol never even heard/thought of that.

[Infinity 0]

wow lol never even heard/thought of that.

That is actually more common than most people know. It is a human error that is actually fairly simple to mess up at the factory. I've seen some TC-made Elementals, a JL w6, and now these Fi's. No big deal if the company involved fixes it.

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Yeah, that was a "fun" error there. When we had made the production run on the 8s we had 2 pallets... one magnetized and tested, and the other just off the line. Apparently one of our new guys packing had been pulling from both pallets. We had to go through 112 8s that were boxed and check them all. Found 14 that were not magnetized.

The 8" is the only speaker that we currently manufacture without magnetizing it first. The benefit to the is is that any dust or cr@p will not get into the gap and stick, the disadvantage is that we cant test at several points along the build like we do with all other drivers. So, for all future runs of these, we will magnetize first so that we can check before the final top glue, then after it is dustcapped for full sweeps.

For us if we send out an unmagnetized sub, it would mean that it had not seen any QC and wasnt tested at all... simply doesnt happen for any other driver size since every motor is magnetized before the build with the first QC/build list sticker applied then (our normal magnetizer coil is 10" ID so anything larger than an 8" wont fit)

Glad no one else got them...

[Mark LaFountain 1,054]

The issue was resolved, Scott did an excellent job handling the situation and I give him huge credit for going above and beyond to take care of his customers. Thanks again man and I wish you and the company the best of luck!

Told he was the right guy to talk to. Customer service is allways number one! Just another reason we like having him around SSA.

[HawaiianBassHead 0]

I had the strangest feeling the magnets may not be magnetized... I remember TC sending a bunch of subs to eD non magnetized a while back, at least I think it was eD... it's not too common but happens.. glad you're bumping now!

on a side note, all half decent amps I've had I've run at least half of their rated impedience even my hifonics merlin did .5ohm dcr running sealed box subs... so imo, if an amp can't play for a little while 1/2 of rated imp it DAMM well better do alot of power @ rated lowest imp as well as doubled rated imp so when the subs are moving they still get good power...

Edited September 20, 2007 by HawaiianBassHead