12" SSD

[thieves 0]

I recently purchased a 12" SSD Dual 2 copper coil. I had to wait on the sub and amp but got them in about 2 weeks later. They're rated at 800w RMS so I got an 800w at 1 ohm amp for it. I ran the sub for about 20-30 minutes from my home to work. I had the gain between half and 3/4 up, the bass boost dail about 1/4 of the way and the sub sounded great. Well after work I got back in my blazer and when I turned the HU back up the sub just wasn't putting out what it had been. So I used a different HU, changed all the wires, re-tightened the power wire to the battery. Got a new amp in addition to the new one I had ordered for the sub(the one I had used on the sub in the first place). Reset the HU, re-set all my gains, and nothing new happened. After all that the sub sounds is still barely making any noise at all, even if I turn the LPF up high and the gain 3/4 or beyond the sub barely responds. I even checked the tinsel leads because I heard of a bunch of problems with those, those seem fine too.

Can someone please tell me what the problem is or is there any way I can get a refund/exchange for a new sub?

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Do you have a multimeter? In all honesty it sounds like it is wired out of phase between the coils. You can pop test the coils (first individually) with a battery checking polarity and making sure that they move/pop the same direction with respect to that. Then wire it back up (with it not attached to the amp) and pop them again to make sure that they move the same way. If it does not move, reverse one set of leads and check again.

A multimeter will tell quite a bit too. Is it a ported enclosure? If so whats it tuned to and what amp do you have (does it have a subsonic filter, and whats it set to as well?)

Its hard to tell what the problem is without being there to track it down. But we will work through it and get it figured out.

Thanks,

Scott

[thieves 0]

Well, I emailed you back about how I should go about "pop testing" the sub. I've been waiting for a few months for some bang again and am disappointed that it seems like the sub has failed already. If you could get back to me ASAP that would be great. I really want to find out what the problem is and how we can go about getting it fixed. Soon.

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Posting the email here just incase anyone else might have an issue and need to check things or test as well.

With a battery (9-18V normally from a rechargeable battery or even from your car (but fuse it to be sure) you simply attach a positive lead from the battery to the positive of one coil of the sub. Then the negative of the battery and "touch" it to the negative side of the coil on the sub. This should make the cone move in a direction (normally out). Do this to the other side of the sub as well making sure to connect it correctly with respect to polarity. It should move the same direction. Then wire your sub up how it needs to be (either in series for a 4 Ohm load or parallel for a 1 Ohm load) and make sure that when you touch the leads to the battery that it moves correctly. If it does not move, you most likely have wired a coil out of phase... simply swap one the other way and try again.

***Please not that the leads need to be disconnected from the amp and that you are only touching to see it move, not connecting it for any period of time as it can damage the speaker and will damage the battery***

You can also use a multimeter set to resistance/Ohm setting to measure that the coils are OK. Cross the leads out on the meter shorting them and make note of what the meter reads (should be 0 but many read some internal resistance as well). The check each coil (D2 reads approx 1.5 Ohms). Subtract the initial reading from what it reads when hooked to the sub. If it is close, its fine.

Also check to see if you push EVENLY in the center of the sub to make sure that there are no noise or rubbing or anything odd...

Please let me know a little more about the setup as well as it could be a settings situation. Ported, sealed, amp settings, subsonic filter levels (if ported).

We will get it solved.

Thanks,

Scott

[thieves 0]

emailed you back. mainly a question about what size battery, big square ones of the type I can put into a small remote control. The rest is answering a few of your inquiries as well.

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Got an email back to you... but yes, a standard 9V battery will pop them enough to let you know which way things are moving. More voltage = more movement. Again, this is only a pop test, do not apply for more than a second as it can p!ss the battery off or in some cases the speaker (with high enough voltage on a small enough speaker).

****Dont use this technique on tweeters as it is a DC pulse (0 Hz) and can screw them up****

[thieves 0]

I tried that "pop" test, emailed you back about it. That isn't the problem.

[Fi Car Audio 64]

Emailed you back.

In all honesty, it sounds like things check OK with the sub. I have no clue what it could be since you have already swapped in other things. Only thing I can think is to send it back since you feel thats the problem and we can check it out.

Thanks,

Scott

[thieves 0]

I hooked it up again today just to see if there was any difference. First I tried a 1 ohm load(parallel): nothing. Then I wired it for a 4 ohm load(series): nothing. I think it has officially died. The Fi subs do have some type of warranty right? Would I have to pay for any repairs/replacements since its so new?

[Fi Car Audio 64]

The SSD definitely has a warranty.

Please send it back to us at:

Fi Car Audio

Attn: Warranty

5480 Cameron St #107

Las Vegas NV 89118

Please be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, phone, and email so that we can get back in touch with you once its received.

Thanks,

Scott