Front stage work

[Wall_Breaker 0]

I am planning on working on my front stage to get ready for my system how does a $1000 budget sound for 4 speakers, 2 tweeters, amp wiring, head unit, and maybe even crossovers I may be able to pull a couple hundred more dollars but if this budget sounds too low then what am I looking at paying. I am hoping on saving money by just buying a good amp at a low price so what kind of amp would be good at about 60 watts x 6 at 4 ohms. I was looking at Boston components but only crutch field carries them and they dont have that great of a selection of them so what other brand is good I don't need attached tweeters I have a place for them on the doors.

[dogstar 0]

6 channel amps are not very common. Im sure others can recommend more modern solutions, but some of the old A/D/S products may work for you.

Even though they are old, they arent cheap, commonly running $150-200 for a 6 channel.

I think Infinity, jbl and a couple others manufacture 6 channels if you want newer gear.

$1000 isnt too bad, as long as you are willing to buy used gear, or shop for deals.

***disclaimer*** ALL PRICES WILL BE CANADIAN DOLLARS

-A good head unit will usually cost $150-300, some of the better choices will include active crossovers if you are looking to go more advanced.

-You could get some alpine type R components for your front speakers and tweets. I have seen last years model for around $140. These will include the required passive crossovers.

-Some coaxial speakers should be fine for the rear speakers, $50-100.

-If you use some components up front and coaxials in the back, you should be able to use a 4 channel amp instead of a 6. Any reputable brand will make at least a couple different 4 channel amps, and 75 watts per channel from a rockford/pioneer/kenwood/alpine will get you plenty loud for most people. Figure $100-250 for a speaker amp.

-Amp wiring depends what kind of amp you will be running, but you should think about $100 at least.

So far, grand total is about $800.... not too bad, and assuming you find good deals, could be even cheaper.

You didnt mention whether you wanted a sub amp and subwoofer, but that will add anywhere from $100-1000 all by itself, depending how crazy you want to get.

There are great deals out there, but you really need to shop for them sometimes.

Patience will save you money.

[ANeonRider 3]

Rear speakers? Gross.

JBL makes a 6ch. with 75x6.

DIY for drivers, who needs passives when you have 6 channels of amplification for a front end? Much much better options for drivers when you do it yourself.

You can find some cheap crossovers that can do 3 way active front end (4 way w/sub). Other more expensive options are the H701, P9 combo, etc etc.

www.madisound.com

www.partsexpress.com

[///M5 2,833]

Front stage and 4 speakers don't go together.

[dogstar 0]

DIY active is fine if the OP knows what hes doing, but for some people its a real big step, which is why I suggested something with passives.

[Wall_Breaker 0]

Well if I decide to wait to get my subs then I will not add back speakers but if I decide to wait I might want the back speakers so it sounds good before then. Well I need the front stage to be pretty good so it will keep up with my substage. I plan on getting 2 15" Fi BL's in a 8 cubit foot ported box with a 3000 watt Sundown amp running at 1 ohm. So I know that it is gonna cost a good chunk of change because of a deep cycle for the back and new starter battery and alternator I am going to need. So I am willing to look at 1500 for the front stage. I was looking at the boston pro60 model the only problem is that I don't have any reputable car audio shops around here so crutchfield is my only option for Bostons. These take 125 watts RMS and I already have a spot for tweeters to I can mount them seperatley. So a set of those and a so would I need a 4 channel amp to run an active crossover or not?

[ANeonRider 3]

If you have a good front end, you may not need subs

Have a look at my build log for an example of a front end that will use subs as filler, not the emphasis.

[Wall_Breaker 0]

well I want a good pront stage but im not into SQ im more LSQ especially you can notice that since I plan on getting 2 15" Fi's and a 3000 watt system lol. The box is gonna be at 30hz and im getting a crap load of Raammat to do the car none of that crappy rattle, nothing worse then when you can hear the rattle from a system before you can hear the bass.

Edited August 10, 2007 by Wall_Breaker

[///M5 2,833]

Even if you wait, I wouldn't put rear speakers in. Rears do absolutely no good and are a complete waste of money. If you are concerned about the dB or 2 they possible could add (and most likely won't) there are a ton of other cheaper and better ways to get it. The destructive interference from the rear stage has the reality of taking away a lot more than it adds. Even if you have rear passengers and want to make them happy, I would still recommend beefing up the front and ignoring the rear. If you don't want to listen, the one acceptable (and I still don't like it at all) solution would be to run some midbasses in the rear to fill in the area between the subs and the front speakers. To me I can't handle anything higher than 50hz with a pretty steep rolloff coming from behind me.l

[JimJ 11]

but im not into SQ im more LSQ

That makes zero sense.

If you don't like something, generally playing the same thing louder doesn't make it different...

[Wall_Breaker 0]

what I meant was im not into SQ solely sorry I wasn't making the most sense last night I was pretty tired im kind of an insomniac and I can't type straight sometimes when I haven't slept for awhile. I like something to sound good but I want it to thump hard too if you know what I mean.

Also I agree with you now M5 if I can beef up my midbass enough I will be more than satisfied, and im not obsessed with db because I don't plan doing comps anytime soon, if I ever decide to it will be when I want to put more money into it and can financially support a hobby like that. I would probably buy a different vehicle for it too. Also if I never had rear passengers I would be more than happy to make a fold down back seat and wall it behind the seat. So I was wondering it it possible to make my seat to where it can fold down to make it louder but I can still fold it up to have passengers and still have the subs running?

Edited August 10, 2007 by Wall_Breaker

[///M5 2,833]

What exactly do you have, what are you plans and goals, what sort of car is it and what sort of budget do you have? I am not sure I understand where you are coming from or what you want to do.

Midbass will come with installation and not drivers. If you really want it you are going to need to copiously deaden your doors. Also, if you were into SPL comps midbass and front stage won't help anyways. To win their it is all about playing a single note really loud, of course at the expense of how everything else sounds. This of course is the reason for Jim's statement. SPL is the exact opposite of SQ. One peaky note in your frequency response versus a very smooth and balanced frequency response. Regrettably you can't have both as to get either from your subs you do the exact opposite things.

[Wall_Breaker 0]

Well by LSQ I guess I just meant I want it loud but I want quality because I drive over a hundred miles a day and I would like the ability to turn down the subs for a just a little thump and play any kind of music because I have a passion for every kind of music not just rap I like anything from Jeezy, to Hank Williams lol. I know your right about installation making good midbass driver that is why I want to do a good job deadening. The ride is already pretty quit but my door panels already get a little rattle and I can even get the front of my trunk by my back glass to rattle a bit from bass with just stock speakers. So it is not outside noise at all if I don't have my music on it is a very quit ride (2000 Buick Lesabre). I think the reason it is actually pretty beefy in the bass compartment is because it has the the Concert sound 2 package. So I am looking at good drivers and I know those aren't cheap. A lot of sound deadener, I was looking at RAAMmat. I also would like a HU I can hook up my stock CD changer up to, USB port, and a auxiliary port in the back. Blue tooth capabilities would be nice, I know that some clarions and alpines come with this. I also will need a adapter to so I can keep my steering wheel controls.

Edited August 11, 2007 by Wall_Breaker

[ANeonRider 3]

Please don't confuse stock systems with beefy bass.

RAAMmat is good, Second skin is better (albeit at a higher cost).

Might be taxed to find a aftermarket HU that will control a stock changer.

PAC TR7 module will allow use of the steering wheel controls.

Have a look at my project log at my deadening job, that rid me of almost all of my rattles. Still some left to do too.

Sooo, in the meantime, answer ///M5's question above, and we can get started here.

[Wall_Breaker 0]

Well the only question I haven't answered would have to be that I do not plan on doing competitions anytime soon and definitely not with this setup. Also my budget for front stage will need to be anywhere from 1000 to 1500

Edited August 11, 2007 by Wall_Breaker

[///M5 2,833]

You can't control your stock changer with a headunit, it won't do it. Does your $1500 budget include everything (wiring, deadening, wood for box, drivers amps etc.)??

[Wall_Breaker 0]

no no, just for the front stage, if I don't need to spend it all that is fine but that is my maximum budget for wiring, amp, speakers, tweeters, head units, and unit to keep my steering controls.

[b5i8 0]

I got a single set of Zapco Ref 5 1/4" separates running full active with only 50Wx4 and I bet I could make your ears hurt with them. It's not how many speakers it's how you set them up.

[///M5 2,833]

I can't help with the steering control portion, never cared to keep it but someone might be able to hop in.

To really help it would be good to know speaker locations as well as what sizes you are limited to for both the tweeter and mid. Preference in type of tweeter (metal or textile) as well.

[Wall_Breaker 0]

Well I have already found the adapter for steering wheel controls it is $70. Well My tweeters are 1 inch dome, and I like something mellow, I don't like high pitches that hurt your ears. Also my speakers are in the door panel, there is no removable grill I need to remove the panel so that I can see exact size and mounting depth. But when I went to remove the panel it was all snaps, no screws or anything. and I got all of them off around the outside but it still didn't want to come off.