box building online calculator???

[johnnylemoine 0]

please post your coments

Did you even read your own thread? You used the wrong wood. That box doesn't have a chance.

And jesus christ.. tell your friends to grow some balls. Its a truck. Its supposed to get fudgeed up.

Wrong wood is debatable. As long as the cuts were good and it is secured at the joints correctly for a good seal, I highly doubt much difference can be heard between MDF and small particle board. At least it isn't ugly OSB or something.

Someone said the opening for the port internally wasn't big enough. It looks to me that the opening is just as wide inside as the mouth on the outside. Is there a reason to have it wider than the mouth? Serious question.

yes the end of the port is just as wide as the front but the inside piece goes too far in to the box. it is too close to the back wall of the box. he should have an L shaped port. im pretty sure youre suppoed to have about 4-6 inches of clearance fron the end of a port and the wall behind it. port looks like its 2- 3 inches wide but its only about an inch or so from the back wall of the box.

[mlstrass 1]

He would NOT want to be 4-6 inches off the back wall "if" the port is 2 1/2" wide. He'd want to be 2 1/2" off the back wall to maintain the same port size throughout. It "looks" to be that way, but only he can confirm.

It will probably sound ok, but those BL's will give that particle board hell. I'd imagine LOTS of flexing and stuff coming loose eventually, but maybe he'll get lucky...

[johnnylemoine 0]

ok, yeah if he made it an "L" shaped port then yeah, hed want to be the same distance off the wal as the width of the port. i was just speaking in general. if he had a box 30 inches deep and a port that need to be 22 inches long he wouldnt have to make it an L shape since the back wall wouldnt interfere with the port.

[IamDeMan 0]

I'd honestly like to see proof that MDF is that much more superior to fine particle board. I find it hard to believe that you would hear any difference. Someone mentioned it flexing which OK if your an SPL monger with a really wanging woofer and a box the size of a house OK. Normal daily boxes won't be large enough for the mechanical inferiority to rear its ugly head. Now I know for all intent purposes, MDF is a better construction material, but I think you guys are splitting hairs when it comes to a daily subwoofer enclosure. I'd like to see the flex. If it is that much worse, you should be able to capture it on video.

[///M5 2,833]

I'd honestly like to see proof that MDF is that much more superior to fine particle board. I find it hard to believe that you would hear any difference. Someone mentioned it flexing which OK if your an SPL monger with a really wanging woofer and a box the size of a house OK. Normal daily boxes won't be large enough for the mechanical inferiority to rear its ugly head. Now I know for all intent purposes, MDF is a better construction material, but I think you guys are splitting hairs when it comes to a daily subwoofer enclosure. I'd like to see the flex. If it is that much worse, you should be able to capture it on video.

Remind me in a month or so after I move and I will gladly measure one for you with our scanning laser vibrometer and show you the difference. I have been meaning to write up a flexing tech paper for the technical section, but until I have a garage back I can't whack out any enclosures. The difference is huge. If you think we are splitting hairs I encourage you to go onto a home audio website and look at one of their sub enclosures, huge baffles and TONS of bracing.

[johnnylemoine 0]

ok heres proof. that even MDF cant handle it. we built a box for 2 BL 15's tuned to 35 hz 7 cubes net out of 3/4 MDF usamps 3000 on em. with a 2x6 for bracing on the front baffle. box flexed so much it broke the screws that held the subs in and both subs fell out of the box. wutever u build BRACE THE SH!T OUT OF IT. top to bottom, left to right. and this guy has 2 BL 15's in a particle board box. but i guess only time will tell if MDF is superior or not.

[caddyon20s 0]

How much power are you running in your current enclosure ?

Im running about 900 rms on my enclosure and a t215 rockford.

[caddyon20s 0]

please post your coments

Did you even read your own thread? You used the wrong wood. That box doesn't have a chance.

And jesus christ.. tell your friends to grow some balls. Its a truck. Its supposed to get fudgeed up.

Wrong wood is debatable. As long as the cuts were good and it is secured at the joints correctly for a good seal, I highly doubt much difference can be heard between MDF and small particle board. At least it isn't ugly OSB or something.

Someone said the opening for the port internally wasn't big enough. It looks to me that the opening is just as wide inside as the mouth on the outside. Is there a reason to have it wider than the mouth? Serious question.

yes the end of the port is just as wide as the front but the inside piece goes too far in to the box. it is too close to the back wall of the box. he should have an L shaped port. im pretty sure youre suppoed to have about 4-6 inches of clearance fron the end of a port and the wall behind it. port looks like its 2- 3 inches wide but its only about an inch or so from the back wall of the box.

ok lets see if i understand your coment, first of all the port is 3 inches wide 16.5 H, and the port is 3 inches away from the back wood, the port had to be 22 inches long to be tunned at 35 hz.

[caddyon20s 0]

He would NOT want to be 4-6 inches off the back wall "if" the port is 2 1/2" wide. He'd want to be 2 1/2" off the back wall to maintain the same port size throughout. It "looks" to be that way, but only he can confirm.

It will probably sound ok, but those BL's will give that particle board hell. I'd imagine LOTS of flexing and stuff coming loose eventually, but maybe he'll get lucky...

you are correct man the port is 3 inches away from the back wall it just doesnt look that way in the pic, i didnt have to make the L shaped port becuase i only needed 22 inches long of port and my box is 26 inches deep thanks.

[caddyon20s 0]

I'd honestly like to see proof that MDF is that much more superior to fine particle board. I find it hard to believe that you would hear any difference. Someone mentioned it flexing which OK if your an SPL monger with a really wanging woofer and a box the size of a house OK. Normal daily boxes won't be large enough for the mechanical inferiority to rear its ugly head. Now I know for all intent purposes, MDF is a better construction material, but I think you guys are splitting hairs when it comes to a daily subwoofer enclosure. I'd like to see the flex. If it is that much worse, you should be able to capture it on video.

yep my box for my t215 rockford is made out of particle board im runnig about 900 to 1000 rims on it and it doenst flex a bit at all.

[caddyon20s 0]

ok heres proof. that even MDF cant handle it. we built a box for 2 BL 15's tuned to 35 hz 7 cubes net out of 3/4 MDF usamps 3000 on em. with a 2x6 for bracing on the front baffle. box flexed so much it broke the screws that held the subs in and both subs fell out of the box. wutever u build BRACE THE SH!T OUT OF IT. top to bottom, left to right. and this guy has 2 BL 15's in a particle board box. but i guess only time will tell if MDF is superior or not.

i forgot to mention that i used a really good glue that says it bounds stronger than wood i tryed it on two peaces of wood and nex day i tryed to pull them apart never could, the glue is pretty good and i also used lots of screws.

[ANeonRider 3]

screws + particle board = cracking.

But, what do we know? Right?

[caddyon20s 0]

screws + particle board = cracking.

But, what do we know? Right?

correct but i only had one screw that cracked the particle board not bad though, i just drilled out the holes and then did the screws thanks. no cracking

off the subject i see you got 2436 posts you must be adicted to audio???

Edited August 9, 2007 by caddyon20s

[johnnylemoine 0]

ok i stand corrected on the port issue, it just looked closer in the pic. my bad. as far as the screws and glue goes, i wouldnt glue my subwoofer to my box. thats the screws i was referring too. and i use wood glue on all my boxes, but no matter how many screws or how much glue you use, its not going to stop the flexing and eventual cracking. im just saying that the pressure that was exerted on the MDF with bracing, still made it flex enuff to cause the screws that held the subs to crack. particle board under that pressure, im not sure if it would hold up. particle board just cracks so much easier than MDF. but wutever works for you, do it. box design it self looks good. hope it holds up for ya.

[ANeonRider 3]

www.caraudio.com

Go there. Thanks.

[caddyon20s 0]

ok i stand corrected on the port issue, it just looked closer in the pic. my bad. as far as the screws and glue goes, i wouldnt glue my subwoofer to my box. thats the screws i was referring too. and i use wood glue on all my boxes, but no matter how many screws or how much glue you use, its not going to stop the flexing and eventual cracking. im just saying that the pressure that was exerted on the MDF with bracing, still made it flex enuff to cause the screws that held the subs to crack. particle board under that pressure, im not sure if it would hold up. particle board just cracks so much easier than MDF. but wutever works for you, do it. box design it self looks good. hope it holds up for ya.

thanks man and no im not glueing my sub to the box lol thats just nuts, how many watts were u running on your subs for them to pop out of the box?? and like a said before i have a t215 that is 60 pound a lot less than a fl and i was running 900 to 1000 rims on it never poped out of the box and never saw any flex on the box, i dont think there is so much preassure in the box since the box is ported and the air flows out, now if it was a sealed box it would be a different sotory.

[ANeonRider 3]

There is actually MORE pressure in a ported enclosure... but ya, again, what do we know.

[caddyon20s 0]

this is my t2 sub im talking about really good sub and really good looks. sorry for the dirty floor but that is the back room nobody wants to clean it.

Edited August 9, 2007 by caddyon20s

[johnnylemoine 0]

yeah theres more pressure in a ported box. but its not so much how many watts u run to a sub that determines if its going to pop out the box. its the wood and bracing u use.

and it wasnt my subs, it was a freinds subs, he had a USamps 3000 on em so it was about 1500 rms per sub.

yes i am farmiliar with the fosgate sub.

if i were u man, i would forget about prefab boxes and their designs and wutever anyone at a big autosound store tells you. local shops are good and learning from here is great. read this forum and learn wuts the best material/designs/installation techniques to use when building a sound system or box or wutever.

[caddyon20s 0]

yeah theres more pressure in a ported box. but its not so much how many watts u run to a sub that determines if its going to pop out the box. its the wood and bracing u use.

and it wasnt my subs, it was a freinds subs, he had a USamps 3000 on em so it was about 1500 rms per sub.

yes i am farmiliar with the fosgate sub.

if i were u man, i would forget about prefab boxes and their designs and wutever anyone at a big autosound store tells you. local shops are good and learning from here is great. read this forum and learn wuts the best material/designs/installation techniques to use when building a sound system or box or wutever.

im learning a lot here THANKS EVERYONE.

Edited August 11, 2007 by caddyon20s

[caddyon20s 0]

one question what is the difference between tunning a subwoofer box to 30, 35 or 38 hz what is the bass like at each frequency ???

ok i know everyone is going to lough at me but i had to tell ya, after i finished my box and put it inside my caddys trunk the trunk wound not close i mean it did fit inside but i didnt pay attention to the tire moldings the moldings would not let it slide further in so i end up cutting 3 inches off the box it used to be 26 inches deep now its 23 deep i had to do my box desing again with less box volume and now i have an L shaped port, my box used to be 3.70 cu ft now its only 3, would having a smaller box effect anything??? thanks and yeah it sucks but o well life goes on thanks everyone.

Edited August 11, 2007 by caddyon20s

[IamDeMan 0]

I'd honestly like to see proof that MDF is that much more superior to fine particle board. I find it hard to believe that you would hear any difference. Someone mentioned it flexing which OK if your an SPL monger with a really wanging woofer and a box the size of a house OK. Normal daily boxes won't be large enough for the mechanical inferiority to rear its ugly head. Now I know for all intent purposes, MDF is a better construction material, but I think you guys are splitting hairs when it comes to a daily subwoofer enclosure. I'd like to see the flex. If it is that much worse, you should be able to capture it on video.

Remind me in a month or so after I move and I will gladly measure one for you with our scanning laser vibrometer and show you the difference. I have been meaning to write up a flexing tech paper for the technical section, but until I have a garage back I can't whack out any enclosures. The difference is huge. If you think we are splitting hairs I encourage you to go onto a home audio website and look at one of their sub enclosures, huge baffles and TONS of bracing.

I already admitted huge enclosures will see this problem I am talking most sane daily driver boxes in vehicles, which now that I look, the OPs may not fit this category. BTW I have always used MDF just for peace of mind. I have had friends with single 12" tuned enclosures made from fine particle board and I seen no flex difference with the eye. When an enclosure reaches a certain size then flex will come and the integrity of the material becomes increasingly important. Even MDF is gonna flex at certain lengths. Which is the reason for so much bracing in home enclosures. I'd be very interested in the reading though if you ever do get that chance to do the testing. Sounds interesting. Until then, I will continue to use MDF to avoid TCAB style flames

[IamDeMan 0]

ok heres proof. that even MDF cant handle it. we built a box for 2 BL 15's tuned to 35 hz 7 cubes net out of 3/4 MDF usamps 3000 on em. with a 2x6 for bracing on the front baffle. box flexed so much it broke the screws that held the subs in and both subs fell out of the box. wutever u build BRACE THE SH!T OUT OF IT. top to bottom, left to right. and this guy has 2 BL 15's in a particle board box. but i guess only time will tell if MDF is superior or not.

You failed to actually get my point of daily driving boxes of normal size and power I won't argue with competiton benefits and ginormous sized enclosure that I would never use lol. Admittedly when i glanced at these pics from OP the first time, I thought it was 2x 12s and a standard sized enclosure. Now knowing they are 15s he could easily be aproaching the limits of the material depending on hoiw much power he plans to hit it with.

ok heres proof. that even MDF cant handle it. we built a box for 2 BL 15's tuned to 35 hz 7 cubes net out of 3/4 MDF usamps 3000 on em. with a 2x6 for bracing on the front baffle. box flexed so much it broke the screws that held the subs in and both subs fell out of the box. wutever u build BRACE THE SH!T OUT OF IT. top to bottom, left to right. and this guy has 2 BL 15's in a particle board box. but i guess only time will tell if MDF is superior or not.

i forgot to mention that i used a really good glue that says it bounds stronger than wood i tryed it on two peaces of wood and nex day i tryed to pull them apart never could, the glue is pretty good and i also used lots of screws.

A lot of screws = BAD

Even if building with MDF, you only use screws if you don't have proper or enough clamps. They are to provide force on the wood while glue dries, not to be a structural part of the design. More screws = Less integrity

www.caraudio.com

Go there. Thanks.

This is entirely UNCALLED for IMO. He isn't getting out of control or extremely retarded with his questioning. I am sure with proper explanations and examples you can make him understand a lot. I don't think people need to come toi this site and just listen to you guys unquestioned. Only sheep do that. I for one like to have substantial evidence or at least a well explained and logical reasoning provided to me about why I a may be doing something wrong. There is nothing wrong with that. How is one to know the level of someones knowledge on the internet? My way of finding ones knowledge is by questioning their advice. If they have true experience they will be able to intelligently tell me why and convince me otherwise. Without that kind of effort, it is just another "me too" spouting off a the mouth imo.

[caddyon20s 0]

thanks man u are completly correct. now is there a big difference between a 3 and a 4 cu ft box??? my finished box is 3 cu ft now, i was wanting to get as close as 4 cu ft as posible but now i only got 3 cuf ft per chamber, is there a big difference?? i see everyone wants to make this huge boxes especialy for the btls is the a good for a big box.

HOW MUCH IS MDF GOOD?????

[DevilDriver 28]

thanks man u are completly correct. now is there a big difference between a 3 and a 4 cu ft box??? my finished box is 3 cu ft now, i was wanting to get as close as 4 cu ft as posible but now i only got 3 cuf ft per chamber, is there a big difference?? i see everyone wants to make this huge boxes especialy for the btls is the a good for a big box.

HOW MUCH IS MDF GOOD?????

There is quite a difference between 3 cubic feet and 4 cubic feet. Generally speaking, the smaller the enclosure is, the less efficient it becomes and the more low frequency performance you give up. Going from 4 cubes to 3 cubes is quite a big difference, especially for 15" subs. Also, it becomes harder to tune the port to a low frequency: if we assume the same cross sectional area of the port, a longer length is required to achieve the same tuning as the enclosure becomes smaller.

Not sure exactly what you're asking with the second question, but MDF is not particularly expensive. You can get whole 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4" MDF for less than $20, and that would certainly be a step in the right direction.