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Hot BTL dust cap

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I have a 2000w amp on my fully optioned BTl

and i know this sub can handle more power than that,

so why is my btl's dust cap hot to the touch

and "industrial smell" coming from the sub and port?

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I buitl a 7.6 cubic foot box, wiht a 120 square port fiberglassed lined hull 3/4 mdf

I have a memphis 2000D (this amp can handle 4 ohm loads, not stable in 1 ohm however)

and a BTL wired in 4 ohm

(dual 2 in series)

12 gauge wire to sub

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I buitl a 7.6 cubic foot box, wiht a 120 square port fiberglassed lined hull 3/4 mdf

I have a memphis 2000D (this amp can handle 4 ohm loads, not stable in 1 ohm however)

and a BTL wired in 4 ohm

(dual 2 in series)

12 gauge wire to sub

what is the port length or port tuning frequency?

your subs will not play well if its playing below port tuning try setting the subsonic filter to on on your amplifier and adjust it to a few hertz just below your port frequency... that should help

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sorry for double but my gues is you are sending them around 90-100 volts. those amps send ALOT of amps through the speaker wires. that resulted in the death of my (2) re se 15's :( r.i.p.

Edited by Damon Hargroves

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^^^ I agree. I wouldnt use anything less than 8g speaker wire running these subs with that kind of power. I would try changing the speaker wire first.

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Your amps will have a max voltage that they can send out. Clipping is hitting this limit and lopping the tops off of a wave form that has a peak beyond the voltage limit. It squares off the tops of clean wave forms. It heats things up by not increasing the amount of excursion relative to the time/energy the sub is seeing from the amp. Same excursion + more energy = more heat. Loaded BTLs kick off heat by using the space under the dustcap and pole as an air pump. Normally applying more power results in increased excursion. But with clipping more energy is applied, with the same excursion resulting in more build up of heat.

Another way of doing this is playing tracks that have lots of info close to the enclosures tuning. This results in minimal cone movement for lots of applied power. Again, not allowing things to move to cool.

Thanks,

Scott

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If that is the problem the only way to "fix" things is to get more power and use the amps within their linear limits. Pushing amps beyond their limits isnt good for the amps or subs (if its beyond the subs thermal ability). And to be honest, the only way to really know if this is the case is to measure things with an oscope (very quick and easy to see)... or plot things out with an AC clamp and voltmeter.

Thanks,

Scott

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how do i fix these problems?

if you dont have access to an o-scope or any fancy equipment like scott said, try turning the gains down a little bit until the symptoms go away. it may not be as loud but you are saving both your sub and your amp from damage.

if you have a digital multimeter (its only liek 20 bucks if you dont) lookie here:

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704

follow that :)

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I live south of raleigh.

I have a fluke multi meter, i just dont know what to do wiht it.

I was not pushing the amp to its limits im pretty sure,

i didnt have the line driver on and the qfc is at the lowst it can actually be

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I live south of raleigh.

I have a fluke multi meter, i just dont know what to do wiht it.

I was not pushing the amp to its limits im pretty sure,

i didnt have the line driver on and the qfc is at the lowst it can actually be

did you read the link i gave you? it shows you step by step how to set your gains. as eldorado says, its "n00b ready" ;)

where was your gain knob set?

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how do i fix these problems?

if you dont have access to an o-scope or any fancy equipment like scott said, try turning the gains down a little bit until the symptoms go away. it may not be as loud but you are saving both your sub and your amp from damage.

if you have a digital multimeter (its only liek 20 bucks if you dont) lookie here:

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704

follow that :)

That's how you burn stuff up....

The only time you should use a DVOM is if you are gain matching multiple amps on multiple speakers.

To the OP:

General rule of thumb your gain should be no more then 3/4 of the way up, ideally half or less...all a gain is is a knob that matches the RCA line voltage of your head unit to the input side of the amplifier...

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